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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so some people say when swapping cams without removing the front chain cover the AFM retention tools works wonders. Some say it sucks and to buy the ford one. But I keep getting a 50/50 result when viewing old posts. Wich tool do you guys think is the best? Are they made of plastic or metal? Plastic seems like a bad idea because of risking dropping broken pieces down in the cover. What is the part number for the ford tool? The Anderson one is like 30 bucks.
 

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Which witch wich is it lol...sorry couldn't resist, but to answer your question I have no answer on that one. I never looked into it and had my cams installed with the front cover off. I remember some one did it with that tool and they loved it. Cut the time down and the install went smooth. Read the thread on this site I think. I only visit a very few mustang sites now and this is one of the few that I visit.
Sorry I couldn't have been more help.
 

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AFM one is in the december fast mustang magazine, looks nice and helps it alot, i was going to order it but i dont have bolt on cam gears :(
 

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Id go Anderson. I know a few shops around here that recomend that one. Im doing HiTech 2's in Febuary (w/ valve springs) where can you buy that tool? I searched on google and saw nothing to order it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Humm I am still getting 50/50 lol I may just order the AFM one. Our cam gear bolts are TTY aren't they? What's tha part number so I can order new ones? Shaun you can find it here ..AFM Cam Retention Tool
 

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Id go Anderson. I know a few shops around here that recomend that one. Im doing HiTech 2's in Febuary (w/ valve springs) where can you buy that tool? I searched on google and saw nothing to order it.
If you want the valvespring tool I'll have mine up for sale this week sometime.

As far as install...I personally think its worth the time to take off the front cover. It's so easy to jump a tooth of time when there isn't enough tension on the cams and have to do it all over again. I had to.

I'm sure that tool works great but depending on what cam's your doing...might as well degree them
 

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did not know ford made a cam retention tool? only heard of afm. I am also in the school of thought in removing front cover is the proper way ( all timing components should be inspected)and cams should be degree'd.

Jivepepper is one of the people on here that has used the afm tool with success iirc
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know alot of people say I should remove the timing cover but if you pay attention to the details and follow everything to the T I think the tool will be a huge help personally. I will buy the AFM tool and report back how it worked. I am only doing stage 1 CMS cams.
 

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If you want the valvespring tool I'll have mine up for sale this week sometime.

As far as install...I personally think its worth the time to take off the front cover. It's so easy to jump a tooth of time when there isn't enough tension on the cams and have to do it all over again. I had to.

I'm sure that tool works great but depending on what cam's your doing...might as well degree them
Im new to cams, so pardon my newbieness...What does the valvespring tool do exactly? And how much??
 

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Ok so some people say when swapping cams without removing the front chain cover the AFM retention tools works wonders. Some say it sucks and to buy the ford one. But I keep getting a 50/50 result when viewing old posts. Wich tool do you guys think is the best? Are they made of plastic or metal? Plastic seems like a bad idea because of risking dropping broken pieces down in the cover. What is the part number for the ford tool? The Anderson one is like 30 bucks.
Chances are its actually made by otc. That should make finding it easier for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I am told it's made by OTC. A sponsor on modulardepot sells them for around the same price as the AFM one. Just was curious what is the better product. Seems alot more people have experience with the AFM tool
 

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I wouldnt even risk using one of those tools but if I had to id prolly go with the otc. Or buy them both and see what works best considering theyre only $30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I may buy both actually. Everyone keeps saying not to do it but alot of people have had success with this method. Worst thing I will have to do is pull the cover if it lose tension. Even the dealership uses this tool to swap cams from what I have seen.
 

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Im new to cams, so pardon my newbieness...What does the valvespring tool do exactly? And how much??
It compress's the valve spring so you can take the retainers out to switch springs. It's a specific tool to the 2v. Idk, anything resonable really...tool was 100$ new and has been used for two cam installs
 

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It worked just fine. It clamps the cams together and for factory cams including GT cams it will lock in the cams in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think we are talking about a different tool. I was speaking of the one that keeps tension on the timing chain while the cams are swapped. Looks liek a trianlge wedge on a stick lol. I think you are talking about something different that I saw in a service manual actually.
 

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did not know ford made a cam retention tool? only heard of afm. I am also in the school of thought in removing front cover is the proper way ( all timing components should be inspected)and cams should be degree'd.

Jivepepper is one of the people on here that has used the afm tool with success iirc
I want everyone to know I endorse degreeing cams, but I never have myself. Some cams absolutely need to be degreed to insure no PVT contact. Plus you will always pick up power.

When I first installed my cams I used the AFM cam retention tool. If used correctly it will keep the timing gears on the right teeth and keep the tensioner from trying to close up the slack when the cam is removed.

I had great success with it. I installed a set of Houston performance S292 cams in stock heads. I also used the stock valve springs since the lift was only 531 lift and I wasn't planning reving over 6400 rpm. When I bought my short block I had the pistons notched because they threw them in for free as part of a deal. I felt the worst that could happen would be a little less power.

To my surprise with no other changes besides Lt's I picked up close to 90rwhp went from 431 to 515. After I bought the patriot heads I just installed them with the cam gears still bolted on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for that bit of info :) You guys are being a great help!
 
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