[Shaun13GT/CS]

In a couple of months Im hoping to have a Procharger or Vortech on the GT. So Ill need some Subframe Connectors (MM Full Length FTW) and need some control arms.

Whats a good set of Upper's and Lower's? I know UPR has good suspension parts, but they have like 12 differant LCA's and UCA's on their website. What about the J&M on American Muscle? Do Upper Control Arms even make a noticable differance? And then I plan on doing a 31 spline rear with 3.55 gears to give me a long ass 4th gear to rape LS1's....hopefully

 

[KB281JD]

pm sent.

 

[Ke^in]

Why PM? I wanna see tooooo

 

[Shaun13GT/CS]

pm sent.

PM Replied

 

[ReverendDexter]

If you're gonna stick with the 4-link, I'd go with tubular (or box) LCAs that have a spherical joint on at least one end (both is better, but noisier), and adjustable UCAs with a spherical joint.

MM will sell you the LCAs, I think BMR sells good UCAs.

Or, go torque arm (that's a considerable jump up in price, though).

 

[Shaun13GT/CS]

Sorry, Im alittle confused. Whats a 4-Link exactly? And whats a better upgrade? I really do plan on building my GT into a handling, street and strip beast. Ill probally do a 31 spline built, then look for people who want to to do a SRA to IRS swap. But rear suspension is pretty new to me. Sorry Im a tool sometimes lol

 

[ReverendDexter]

Sorry, Im alittle confused. Whats a 4-Link exactly? And whats a better upgrade? I really do plan on building my GT into a handling, street and strip beast. Ill probally do a 31 spline built, then look for people who want to to do a SRA to IRS swap. But rear suspension is pretty new to me. Sorry Im a tool sometimes lol

No worries.

4-link is the stock setup that uses the 2 lower control arms and 2 upper control arms. If you're into drag racing, upgrading the stock setup is fine.
This isn't the greatest image, but you can see the parallel LCAs and triangulated UCAS:

If you're into handling, you really want to go to a setup that ditches the UCAs. The most common is a torque arm, which is a 3-link setup that removes that UCAs, then adds a panhard bar (or watts link) and torque arm.

The geometry of the IRS is less than ideal, and torque arm cars are known for outhandling IRS. The one caveat to that is rough roads. Where I autocross, the pavement is rough and full of potholes and bad patches, so the IRS would probably do me better than a torque arm setup.

Hope that helps!

 

[Shaun13GT/CS]

Cool thanks for explaining, I appriciate it.

Im not into autocross, I wouldnt mind but Ive never done it. But an IRS would be idea for where I live. Theres a lot of windy roads like a half hour from my house, and crappy pavement, and potholes and blah blah.

Thanks for the help man

 

[UWISHU1]

don't forget to get a UPR torque box reinforcement kit welded in too.
CLICK

 

[ReverendDexter]

This page might help, too:
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension2.htm

 

[97S281]

I have a set of CHE adjustable upper and adjustable lowers on mine right now. They are decent and the adjustable lowers were needed to bring my pinion angle in line properly.

They definately launch well and the only complaint I have from them is that occasionaly the stop nut on the upper arms seems to loosen itself completely from time to time. I have used thread lock on it and it hasn't moved since, but i don't think that should have been necessary.

I got a set of mm solid lowers in the closet and intend on going 3 link when I'm done with the rear end. ( rear end is currently broke )