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what would be a good sounding bypass valve for the vortrech v2 im getting. and how can u produce alot of tourqe out of these vortechs ?
 

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use the mini race bypass valve, mph tunes them well with the timing so the torque stays fair look at my torque with my power thats a great number its plenty enough to be violent and push it the **** out, the one thing about our heads because they dont have the best flow our torque stays up pretty well but the only forced induction that will keep torque above hp is nitrous, trust me youll be happier with a blower having it there all the time.

the mini race has a cool sound, if you want it super loud tho you can make it just unload open atmosphere it will be as loud as a turbo's.
 

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the mini race has a cool sound, if you want it super loud tho you can make it just unload open atmosphere it will be as loud as a turbo's.
Aren't vortechs a draw through setup unless you convert it over? If it is draw through DO NOT vent it off to the atmosphere, then you'd be blowing off metered air and you're going to run rich as hell, if at all
 

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sorry to be a newb about superchargers... but you're right about it running rich if you blow off metered air... and if you open the blow off on the suction side, won't it just suck in air through the valve?
 

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sorry to be a newb about superchargers... but you're right about it running rich if you blow off metered air... and if you open the blow off on the suction side, won't it just suck in air through the valve?
I'm not sure what you mean by suction side... And for a newb you're actually asking intelligent questions so you're strides ahead of many other ones.

Since you can't vent to the atmosphere on a draw through setup (maf before the charger, the charger "draws" the air through the maf) I'll try to explain it on a blow through (maf after charger, so the charger "blows" the air through the maf)

The bypass valve is placed right after the charger and at lower throttle it usually routes air back to an inlet on the intake tube before the charger. When you smash the gas, you lose vacuum in the intake system, and that vacuum was used to keep that valve open. With the loss of vacuum, the valve closes and the charged air gets routed through the piping into the motor instead of back to the intake tube. When you let off the gas, the vacuum returns and the valve opens back up, re-routing the air to the intake tube so that the charged air doesn't slam up against a closed throttle butterfly.

However, you can basically remove the hose that goes from the bypass valve to the intake tube and "vent it to the atmosphere". It works basically the same way except now when you're at idle it's just pushing that air out into the space around you're engine. When you hit the gas, it's the same process as before. But now when you let off the gas, the valve opens and all that charged air comes rushing out into the free space instead of back to the intake tube and it makes the sweetest ppphhhhhhhsssssttttt sound your ears could ever hear.
 

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S/C's, specifically centri's, do about the same thing to torque as they do HP, meaning they produce similar curves on a dyno. Power comes on when the Centri develops boost, which is usually around 3500rpm.

That being said most people who want "torque" are talking about that feeling where the air goes out of your lungs when you push on the throttle. That's really not the strong suit of a centri. They develop boost much later in the rev range than a roots or a twin screw. Getting a centri to produce tons of torque off idle is nearly impossible- if you look at dyno charts the power starts off the same as your engine would NA.

One strategy I hear for developing some off idle umpf is to cam for torque. Combine a good low end torque cam with an intake like a intake manifold like a Trick Flow track heat. It's similar to a Bullit manifold, and I can't explain why but for some reason it really helps out the low end Torque. Check out this dyno test results:

Mustang Intake Manifold - Dyno Test Results - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine

That might be the best way to build low end Torque with a centri.

As for the BOV on a Vortech draw thru setup the only valve you need is the Bosch 101 or 108 plastic valve. Some guy sells them on Ebay for $20. It rerouts the air to the front of the S/C intake and it sounds just fine. Good for around 8-12psi or so.

Sure a $300 billet aluminum BOV with a trumpet on the end of it will make you sound like Johnny Ricer. Other than being annoying after 5 minutes, it really makes no sense unless you have a high PSI application like a T-trim or a D1. It has to be blow through for an engine compartment vent anyway.
 
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