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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had the Whiteline Watts Link on my 2011 for 2 weeks now. Upon research, owners were saying that "the rear absorbs bumps now rather than reacting to them" and "rear feels like it's finally tied to the front suspension as one working unit"...All true, folks!!!

I've spent a lot of money on a full suspension overhaul to improve the handling of the Stang, but was never satisfied with how the rear handled bumpy roads.

For example, I daily drive home from work on a long, stretch of bumpy, windy road (posted speed limit 65mph). I always had to hold on to the steering wheel really tight in order to control the car's rear end from bouncing all over the place on this specific commute. I upgraded to Swift springs on my coilovers, and that improved some. I also tried firming up the rear coilovers and that also tamed the "rocking boat feel" a bit, but you can only go so firm until you enter stiff territory and every bump feels like a jolt. Regardless, I knew it was time to swap out the aftermarket panhard bar/brace combo for a Watts Link because it WAS the weak link in the entire suspension.

Enter the Whiteline Watts Link...talk about super quiet, super road control!!! I can now attack this stretch of road at max speed w/out white knuckling the steering wheel. What a joy to drive with confidence!!! The car absorbs all bumps with out the rear "twerking"...lol. Even on corners, I find myself adding a little more gas to the pedal and the car remains flat and in control. Just point and shoot!!!

If you have the funds...get a Watts Link first over some cosmetic upgrade for your car...it's totally worth every penny. It is the perfect and only solution for that wild, rear end. Oh, and does it behave like an IRS? Yes. No more side to side...just up and down...lol.

Props to Hillbank Motorsports in Irvine, CA for the correct adjustments to dial in the Whiteline Watts Link...I made the mistake of having the Watts installed somewhere else and there were a few issues...so took it to Michael and Ashton for the expert fix.





 

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11.5:1 or GTFO
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Siiiick. This is on the list to do over the summer for my car.
 

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Good review. I want to get a watts link in the worst way since this coming season I'm hoping to do a few HPDE events. I'm patiently waiting for the BMR model to be released, but the whiteline looks so good.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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Seriously...everyone always complains about the Mustang's rear end...don't accept that the problem is because it has the Solid Rear Axle...it's the panhard bar/brace unit...I can finally drive with confidence over any bumpy/uneven road now. Do it!!!
Another person who has seen the light. I've been preaching the benefits of the watts link arrangement and the cost per performance value of one for years now.

Now if only I could get people more convinced on spending money on better shocks/struts and good quality springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another person who has seen the light. I've been preaching the benefits of the watts link arrangement and the cost per performance value of one for years now.

Now if only I could get people more convinced on spending money on better shocks/struts and good quality springs.
I have to give you some credit Whiskey11...upon my time saving up and researching about the Watts Link...l believe one of your posts contributed to helping me make up my mind :)
 

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Now if only I could get people more convinced on spending money on better shocks/struts and good quality springs.
I know I've seen you preaching about steeda springs in other posts. What's your opinion on eibachs? More specifically the sportlines?

I just purchased a set of sportlines with koni yellows. But after doing more research in convinced I should have gone with steeda or maximum motorsports track springs. I just don't think the sportlines will be stiff enough.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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I know I've seen you preaching about steeda springs in other posts. What's your opinion on eibachs? More specifically the sportlines?

I just purchased a set of sportlines with koni yellows. But after doing more research in convinced I should have gone with steeda or maximum motorsports track springs. I just don't think the sportlines will be stiff enough.
From a quality standpoint there isn't anything wrong with Eibach springs. They are going to last a long time without sag. My beef with Eibach's lowering springs is that they are progressive rate. This makes for a much less consistent car when pushed to the limit. I think Steeda has like two springs in total that aren't linear rate. Heck, the Steeda Sport springs use a Hypercoil 2.5" diameter coilover spring.
 

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this post was the last straw, convinced me to get the whiteline unit after 2 years of waiting. will be installed on friday at Hillbank motorsports in Irvine, CA. Thanks for the additional insight op! and whiskey if theres anyone on this site who can convince people of a proper set-up, its definitely you.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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this post was the last straw, convinced me to get the whiteline unit after 2 years of waiting. will be installed on friday at Hillbank motorsports in Irvine, CA. Thanks for the additional insight op! and whiskey if theres anyone on this site who can convince people of a proper set-up, its definitely you.
It is an investment that is worth it if you are even remotely close to interested in handling or just want a rear end that is more muted, a watts link is going to help it track the front wheels so much nicer than any other mod you've done to the car. Fantastic mod for the money IMO!
 

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Congrats, OP, glad you are happy with your purchase. I too plan on running a watts link, of a different brand, but essentially very similar.

I really love the whiteline inverted rear sway, considering running them. The only thing i dont like about the front is that WL uses solid bars, which usually means more weight than hollow with a similar stiffness.

What kind of dampers are you running? Springs/rate?

Another person who has seen the light. I've been preaching the benefits of the watts link arrangement and the cost per performance value of one for years now.

Now if only I could get people more convinced on spending money on better shocks/struts and good quality springs.
+1 on the Dampers and springs. After reading your posts, other forums and doing a TON of research on what these cars need, its really easy to see that most lowering springs are sort of like a bandaide fix- does it make it better, sure, but marginally. These cars are heavy, up front especially, it takes more rate and quality damping to keep the rate in check to really wake up the s197 chassis.

After speaking with you, Jayman, and others, ive narrowed my suspension plan down i think. Just gotta sell my house first cause my suspension budget doubled, lol.

I know I've seen you preaching about steeda springs in other posts. What's your opinion on eibachs? More specifically the sportlines?

I just purchased a set of sportlines with koni yellows. But after doing more research in convinced I should have gone with steeda or maximum motorsports track springs. I just don't think the sportlines will be stiff enough.
Eibach does ONE thing right, its springs. The problem with most eibach "lowering springs" is 2 fold, 1- They are progessive, which as whisky stated, isnt as controllable/tunable as a linear one, and 2- most "lowering" springs still have spring rates that, for these cars, is mushy (if you are serious about grip).

Honestly, if you want to get a good setup and not spend a **** load of money, Ground Control Coilovers are really hard to beat for the price. They consist of LINEAR eibach springs made specifically for GC at the rate you want, then GC custom valves the koni yellows to match the springs, so you have a properly damped setup, which even at a much higher rate will ride just as well as your average set of lowering springs. And for 1600 bucks you get the whole setup bolt-on ready WITH caster/camber plates.

Whiskey is running GC coilovers...if that tells you something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
this post was the last straw, convinced me to get the whiteline unit after 2 years of waiting. will be installed on friday at Hillbank motorsports in Irvine, CA. Thanks for the additional insight op! and whiskey if theres anyone on this site who can convince people of a proper set-up, its definitely you.
Cool!!! Please do add your review once you've gotten everything dialed in!!! Tell Michael and Ashton that Nido said Hi...:)

---------- Post added at 08:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 AM ----------

Congrats, OP, glad you are happy with your purchase. I too plan on running a watts link, of a different brand, but essentially very similar.

I really love the whiteline inverted rear sway, considering running them. The only thing i dont like about the front is that WL uses solid bars, which usually means more weight than hollow with a similar stiffness.

What kind of dampers are you running? Springs/rate?
Hi ModdedMach...I have the BC Racing BR-Type Coilovers with SWIFT Springs...7K 228mm front and 5K 203mm rear. Right now I have the front and rear firmed up to 10 out of 30 clicks from softest setting.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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Hi ModdedMach...I have the BC Racing BR-Type Coilovers with SWIFT Springs...7K 228mm front and 5K 203mm rear. Right now I have the front and rear firmed up to 10 out of 30 clicks from softest setting.
Or for those who read rates in Imperial units: 392lbs/in up front, 280lbs/in out back. 9" front spring, 8" rear spring. Probably a little more rear spring than I'd want with those front springs but whatever works! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Or for those who read rates in Imperial units: 392lbs/in up front, 280lbs/in out back. 9" front spring, 8" rear spring. Probably a little more rear spring than I'd want with those front springs but whatever works! :D
Thanks for the conversion, Whiskey11!!! I always ran into a problem explaining metric to imperial conversions on my equipment...and always guessed...this helps.
 

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Or for those who read rates in Imperial units: 392lbs/in up front, 280lbs/in out back. 9" front spring, 8" rear spring. Probably a little more rear spring than I'd want with those front springs but whatever works! :D
What do you think about eibach pro kit vs steeda sport springs? To me the rears are perfect, but the Steeda sport springs up front are just wayy too soft. I have tokico D-spec's and my dad has eibach pro kits and his is much better.
 

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Do the drivers side bar and passenger side bar need to be in a straight line of eachother?

I installed the wattslink recently and somehow passemger bar hits the swivel bokt that came out of my diff cover. its so weird.
If you have any help/tips i appreciate it very much.

Greetings from the netherlands
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