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Discussion Starter #1
Ok Stang-ites, perhaps my "How Hot" post wasn't real clear so perhaps this will work better. The picture below is my thermostat housing on my 1989 Mustang GT 5.0. The round circle with the hole in the middle is my boss on the neck of the housing. Here's the question: Can I remove that alan bolt in the neck of the housing and put my aftermarket thermostat sensor in? Good idea? Bad idea? Secondly, what is the diameter of that hole? Will the aftermarket sensor even fit?
I would kinda like both factory and aftermarket gauges to work. But if it ain't gonna happen, it ain't gonna happen! Little help here -
Thanks-

sunshine
 

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You can do it, but it won't give the most accurate reading unless the thermostat is open. It ain't going to hurt anything to try.
 

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Can I remove that alan bolt in the neck of the housing and put my aftermarket thermostat sensor in? Good idea? Bad idea? Secondly, what is the diameter of that hole? Will the aftermarket sensor even fit?
sunshine
Well for reference,the stock temp sender is 3/8-18 thread.Is the aftermarket sender the same size as the stock sender or is it bigger/smaller??

I dont know what brand of tstat housing youve got,but a Mr Gasket brand housing **PART # 9713** (which looks identical to yours) has a 3/8-18 allen plug in it, just like the stock housing.
All youve gotta do is remove the plug & test fit the new sender.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks folks. I guess the only true thing to do is try it. As you both have said, whats the harm. Another quick question if you will: If I piggyback the aftermarket sensor on the factory sensor will that work? I realize the factory sensor is a push cap, but if I wrap the wire tightly then snap the cap on, outside chance that could work?

Hapy New Year and thanks-

sunshine
 

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No that wont work.The stock sender has to be used with the stock gauge & the aftermarket sender has to be used with the aftermarket gauge.
If you goto Lowes,Home Depot or a hardware store,you should be able to put a few fittings together that'll allow you to use the same hole for both senders.
You should be able to find a short pipe with 3/8-18 npt threads at both ends plus a 3/8-18 npt thread cut in the center of the pipe.Now find a double sided fitting that has male 3/8-18 npt threads on both ends of it.Once you locate the right fittings,use sealant,mount a sender to each end of the pipe fitting,screw one end of the male fitting into the center hole on the pipe fitting then screw the other end of the male fitting into the hole on the intake & connect each one of the sender wires to the correct sender.If the exact setup above is not available,come up with alternative fitting sizes that'll allow the same design.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So essentially what I need to do wbrockstar is fabricate a "T" fitting that's 3/8 in diameter with 18 npt threads. Making sure that both sensors fit the top of the "T" on both sides and the stem of the "T" fits in the factory sensor hole. Correct?

sunshine pony
 

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So essentially what I need to do wbrockstar is fabricate a "T" fitting that's 3/8 in diameter with 18 npt threads. Making sure that both sensors fit the top of the "T" on both sides and the stem of the "T" fits in the factory sensor hole. Correct?

sunshine pony
Exactly.You could use a combination of fittings like the pair shown below or something similar.The stainless fitting would screw into the intake,then the center hole on the brass fitting would screw on the top of the stainless fitting & a sender would screw into each end of the brass fitting.I showed fittings that are made with different metals,but its best to use brass or stainless for both pieces,for corrosion resistance & so both pieces match.If your aftermarket sender is not 3/8-18 npt,youll have to get the correct size to marry the sender & the brass fitting.
Its also possible that you might be able to find a brass fitting like the one shown below,but instead of its center hole being female it would be male instead,which would allow you to screw the brass fitting directly into the hole on the intake instead of using that stainless fitting.If that makes sense.
 

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So essentially what I need to do wbrockstar is fabricate a "T" fitting that's 3/8 in diameter with 18 npt threads. Making sure that both sensors fit the top of the "T" on both sides and the stem of the "T" fits in the factory sensor hole. Correct?

sunshine pony
That should do exactly what you want.
 

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The water out of the heads is a lot hotter than the intake manifold surface.

The sensor probe has to be in the moving water to read accurately. The further up away from the water flow, the less accurate the reading is. It can be especially bad if you trap air in the T.

You are much better off if you have some other place to put it in the water stream. This is why Ford, when they needed both an EEC sensor and a gauge sensor, put the gauge sensor in the manifold and the EEC in the heater pipe hardline. Taht gets both of them in flowing water that exits the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK pony enthusiasts, we need to derive at a single conclusion on how to solve my dilemma. 4eyedfoxdriver states in his blog that if installed in the thermostat housing boss it will not be accurate until the thermostat is open whereas "old man" states that it needs to be in the water flow and that a "t" could trap air being that far away from the manifold therefore resulting in an inaccurate reading. wbrockstar says a "T" will work with the correct plumbing and Derfdog15 concurs. Given the data that y'all have provided we need to determine the least path of resistance in order to have factory & aftermarket sensors work.
The pics below are what we are working with. Top pic is the after market sensor. It measures 1/2" nut with 3/8 thread and over all length of 1 5/8. Bottom pic is the factory sensor.
As always, your opinion is valuable.
Thx.

sunshine pony
 

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Well here is what I plan to do... I plan on moving the stock sender to that port on the t-stat housing... I read on here that the factory gauge isn't that accurate anyway... so I'll let that read the water temp coming out the t-stat, but now at least the factory gauge would still work...and not just be dead... and my after market mechanical one I'm going to put in the factory location (which is the gauge I'm gong to really care about anyway.)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok Kendawg73, this actually sounds like it may work! We will run this up the flag pole and see if anybody salutes it. To be continued ...
Thanks

sunshine pony
 

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Well you cant use the coolant pipe that the heater hoses connect to because its dedicated to the ect sensor.The only other coolant port available,besides the oem sender port & the tstat housing port,would be the port on the passenger rear side of the intake.The only problem with using this port would be, the egr spacer coolant return line connects to this location.If you could cut the heater core supply hose in half & splice a short piece of pipe(with a nipple for the egr coolant line to connect to) between the two pieces,you would then be able to use location.Other than this location,the stock sender location and tstat housing are your only other options.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well pony fans this is what is fact at the moment: the factory nut is 11/16ths. The aftermarket sensor actually fits in the hole the factory's came out of. All of it, nut included! Soooo, here's the next question: can I connect the aftermarket gauge to the factory sensor? In doing so, would I need to use the same connection set up that's on the aftermarket sensor? (little nut, washer, etc) The saga continues ...
The pics below is my factory sensor on top and the aftermarket on the bottom. You can see the obvious difference. So back to the drawing board.

Thx

sunshine pony
 

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From everything I know,youve gotta use the aftermarket sender that came with the new gauge.The only way I can see the factory sender working with the new gauge would be,if both senders have an identical ohms operating range.I'll try to search for the range of the stock sender if you can search for the new sender's range.If you cant use the stock sender with the new gauge,do this.Grab your stock sender & the new sender then take a trip to the hardware store.You can buy a fitting that has male 3/8-18 npt threads on the bottom with a hole in the center thats threaded the same size as your new sender.Youll screw the new sender into this fitting then youll screw this fitting into the intake,where the stock sender was removed from.The picture below shows the sender mated to this fitting then mounted in the intake.
 

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Ok the stock sender range=
9.7-74 ohms
Needle at C mark=74 ohms
Needle at H mark=9.7 ohms

One other thing I wanted to mention is one last possible location for the sender.I had stated,in post #13 ,that the stock location,tstat housing & the passenger rear side of the intake were the only locations you could mount the sender.However I forgot about the other side of the intake.
Im not sure if it will fit or not,because of how close the upper & lower intake are to each other,but you can eyeball it to see if its an option.
If you look at the lower intake(driver side,rear)youll see a pipe plug screwed into the intake.If you mount the new sender in the stock sender location then mount the stock sender in the location mentioned above(if it'll fit clearance wise)that might just work.Youll have to remove the upper intake so the pipe plug can be removed and the stock sender can be mounted in its place,but thats only a 10-15 minute job.
The picture below shows the stock intake.Look at the top left hand side of the picture,which shows the driver side rear of the intake,and youll see the hole Im referring to where a pipe plug is currently mounted in your intake.Its beside the very rear bolt hole on the driver side.Thats where the stock sender can be mounted,as long as clearance checks out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well wbrockstar, that's a boat load of additional info! But good stuff. I will start exploring these new options and let you know what possibly works best. I'll test the ohms range on the aftermarket sender and let you know.
Again, the saga continues ...

Thx

sunshine pony
 

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Well wbrockstar, that's a boat load of additional info! But good stuff.
sunshine pony
:shiftyeyes Yeah sorry man.I tend to write long posts most of the time because Im trying to list as much detail as possible about the subject. Unfortunately I go into detail too much at times or not enough at other times.I'll try to practice on that,because I know youre not the only member thats noticed.:dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #19
And the beat goes on. So, I custom built the "T" for both sensors only to discover that I can not put the "T" part into the manifold hole because the front fuel jet does no allow me any room to screw it into place. "T" to big. So, onto next plan, screwing the aftermarket sensor into the t-stat housing. I'll keep everyone advised. Thanks again-

sunshine
 

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Is the injector only in the way because the T is hitting it everytime you try to rotate it or is there just not enough side to side clearance between the T & the injector because the larger diameter T hits the injector and that keeps the T's threads from lining up with the hole in the intake?? If its the first reason,all youve gotta do is remove the intake and the injector,install the T then reinstall the injector and the intake.
If its the second reason,search for a picture of the 95-01 Explorer injector (thinner injector than the 19lb Mustang injector) on the web to see if its thinner size would give you the clearance needed,to mount the T now.If it will,goto pull-a-part and grab one or a set.
 
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