So im in the process of upgrading my cars components to be able to put on a vortech sc in the summer...so my question is what should i do to the rear end or should i just leave it alone? also how much rwhp can my transmission handle before i have to upgrade it?
what all are you upgrading. you can sc a stock block and be good for around 415-425 what gers do you have. search button will answer a lot of your questions too.
Car is a stock Bullitt and as far as goals go I'm looking at 400-500 rwhp. And ad far as budget goes I want to do it right the first time so ill take best recommendations and not go the cheap route
Well for 500hp you need to build your engine with forged internals. I have a built rearend in my car but have a stock tr3650 with a spec stage 2+ clutch and just under 500rwhp. The trans can handle it for a while if you dont beat on the car alot and you dont track the car weekly.
There is a world of difference between 400 rwhp and 500 rwhp. For 400 rwhp all you need is a complete supercharger kit. As long as you run street tires and the stock clutch your transmissiona and rear end should hold up fine.
500 rwhp requires forged internals. You will have absolute no traction with street tires so you will want to run DRs on the street and slicks at the track. Upgrade to a 31 spline axle and stronger clutch is recommended. After you upgrade the rearend the next weakest link is the input shaft of the transmission. To beef it up you will need a 26 spline input shaft and clutch disc.
To get to 500 rwhp it will take about $20,000. I'm half way there. I'm relunctant to spent the other $10,000. Perhaps you have a better cash flow than I have.
Which supercharger? Do you plan on running slicks or drag radials? If you plan on running a sticky tire then do the rearend upgrade. You can safely make 400rwhp or less with a basic intercooled supercharger kit. Pushing it past 10psi on a stock shortblock is not recommended. You might need to upgrade the clutch depending on the condition of your current one. I've been on the stock clutch and supercharged for 2.5 years with 61,000 miles on the car. I daily drive the car and it is on street tires 99.9% of the time so my clutch will last. At the track it took 5500rpm clutch dumps on drag radials without a problem.
Get an Si whether its a V1 or V3. If you are buying new get the V3 Si. Which intercooler are you going with? With the Bullitt intake and intercooeld you shouldn't have a problem getting into the 390-400rwhp range.
I'm leaning more towards the v3 since im iffy about making a hole in my oil pan. I was thinking of going with a cxracing intercooler....or is there something better out there?
Treadstone or a used Procharger intercooler are much better than cxracing. For a nice Treadstone you'll pay $300-$400. A brand new Procharger 3 core is like $900. I bought mine used for $200, which was a steal. Tapping the oil pan is not that big of a deal. It's probably more of a hassle to keep having to change the oil in the headunit than it is to tap the oil pan once.
Im running 475hp through a stock tranny and rear end. I put Nitto 555Rs on last spring and everything is holding together. I only have LCAs in the rear and the tires still spin once in a while when its hot, they spin all the time in the cold now. Its really come to how your drive it. If your dropping the clutch at every light your gonna break something at 300whp eventually.
As Eagle said 400 and 500hp are two different animals. IMO, If i didnt it again Id bolt on a blower for 380-420hp, then work on the rear suspension. Once thats done look at a built block. A 500whp car is only fast if you have traction.
Pretty much. I wanted to break 400hp and ended up with 435whp on the stock block. Well the stock block now sits in the shed with a nice hole in it. And it became a mess after that. a straight bolt on blower will be plenty of power for the time being.
The rods couldnt handle the forces and bent, the crank contacted the bottom of the pistons and parts started flying. I made the 435 with just boost which is a BAD idea! It increases the pressure and heat in the cylinders opposed to adding cams that make the engine more efficient. I was at 14psi on a stock block. With cams and a built block I made 475, with same pulley and a more conservative tune.
Just changing the engine oil might be a little more convienent but changing the oil in the head unit isn't that bad since I bought this little attachment.
You will be safer making more power with cams than boost yes. Less boost mean less heat and pressure in each cylinder so its less stress on the engine. I believe there are a few guys here around 450hp with cams and a stock block. Personally I wouldnt push it much past 400whp on a stock block.
Yes the cams will help gain some HP and allow you to run lower boost levels to gain your 400. Just like any other mod, The more mods=more power=less for turbo to pick up the extra hp
The blower will replace the CAI, It has its own intake. The "CAI" for a blower is called a power pipe, it always the blower to suck air in much easier. If you can swing it Id run a stock blower 8psi, cams and a power pipe and your be right around 400+
Honestly I think cams are the only main power adder to these engines. If your looking into boost maybe tb and plenum. Then an intake manifold is nice for some power but expensive and not needed for your goals. I would get cams, TB, plemum.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Modded Mustang Forums
6.3M posts
80.3K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to all Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, builds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!