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Discussion Starter #1
I had my friend's dad build me a box and now that track season is here, I wanna see what the car can do, but I'm worried the box he made won't pass tech depending on how difficult they are about it. Here are some pics, please give me some advice. Aside from the slight space where the wires come out of the box, it is completely sealed, so would I have to add a vent tube? and I know I need the cutoff switch already, Just have to get around to that. Also it's bolted down on the side that's not showing and the side without a bolt in it in the pic will be bolted down when I figure out how I'm gunna do it

 

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Rule #8.1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted and may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is re-located in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch (.6 mm) or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum, or FIA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery, and must be vented outside of body. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds (68 kg) combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements) is permitted. Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Hold-down bolts must be minimum 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) if battery is relocated from stock and other than stock hold-downs are used ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.).


Looks like it is supposed to be vented. you could just have him weld a nipple on the side and run the vent down through the bottom of the car. I think it really just depends on where you will be racing at though . They are not very strict on these rules at my track. That is a sick box though. Looks like he does some great work.
 

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every track iv went to dont ever look at stuff liek that

they always just write a number on my car and im on my way lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lol alright that seems to be what everyone's saying, that it depends on how hard they are at tech, but I've been told englishtown is pretty easy. And yeah he's been welding for years, he does some crazy stuff for companies like Merck lol. I pushed for a custom one by him not only because he hooked me up, but because I needed the extra hole for my speakers, that's why theres the big dist. block on top. Alright thanks guys, maybe tomorrow night I'll be there so I'll give it a shot and see what happens, maybe they'll even let me run without a switch! haha
 

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you will need more than just those 2 little tabs to hold the batter down.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Those little tabs are on there good, The battery doesn't budge while it's bolted in...they've got some bulk to them
 

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I dont even have a driveshaft loop and i get to run anywhere with my 11 second cobra. Bet i could run 9s without a cage and get away with it to. I highly doubt anyone is going to send you home because its not vented etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright sounds good, thanks for the comforting news lol, I'll be going to Englishtown tomorrow night for my first run! as it sits: 3:73 gears, CAI, 75MM TB, Trick Flow Plenum, Off Road H-Pipe, Flowmaster 40's, 18"Fr500's with fresh NT05's, Diablosport tune, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, Subframe connectors, Koni springs, full interior, and a maybe 50 lb sub enclosure in the trunk. I am aware of what's working against me(18's and koni springs & Sub), but I'm looking for a 13.7...think it can be done in my 5 speed?
 

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well most places for just running on the track will over look what you have. But if you ever plan on running an NHRA or NMRA event, you will not pass tech with that box
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah that's what I figured, on top of being just a normal night, it's not like I'm running any crazy times where I'm a big hazard
 

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The battery is required to be bolted down inside the box. Normally the bolts for securing the battery go thru the bottom of the box and thru the trunk and you attach nuts/washers under the trunk.

The idea is to keep the battery secure if you lose control and flip your car.

It also requires a vent going to the outside of the car.

Like this:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, i remember seeing that and thinking of a way to make a hold down work for my box. I guess we'll just see how everything goes down tomorrow night and I'll let you guys know lol
 

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IF you were to get into an accident on the track you do not want that battery/box flying through the car and hitting/killing you. It's worth it to do it right.
 

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When you install your batter master disconnect and you have your alternator wired to it, don't shut the switch off while the engine is running, it will cause damage to the alternator. It is for emergency use only, nothing more.
 

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When you install your batter master disconnect and you have your alternator wired to it, don't shut the switch off while the engine is running, it will cause damage to the alternator. It is for emergency use only, nothing more.
i have never had an issue with mine causing problems with the alt. Mine has to get shut off with the engine running through tech all the time. other wise they have no idea if it works or not
 

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The tech at the alternator/starter/electric motor shop told me it causes the rectifier to burn up. I think that's what happened to the starter I had just installed on my car. It was on the engine for about 150 miles and went dead. I had turned it off by the master switch a couple of times checking the switch wiring.
 

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IF you were to get into an accident on the track you do not want that battery/box flying through the car and hitting/killing you. It's worth it to do it right.
exactly :yes:yes:yes

theres no place for shortcuts at the track, if you don't feel the need for the propper safety equipment, your better off staying home.
 

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do you have to drop the gas tank in order to drill the holes for the threaded rods to go through for the battery box?
 
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