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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So anyways on my 86 I have a battery draw. It was fuel injected now its carbed. I removed all the fuel injection wiring and ECM.

Anyways, I started to see what fuses were getting power with the key off. There were 5 of them. So I unplugged all 5 and I still had a battery draw. But is wasn't a 12V draw like before, its a 10V draw. So I removed all the fuses and even the flasher from the fuse block and there is still that 10V draw.

Are there any more fuses I am missing? Or is there a wire crossed somewhere?
 

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voltage is not the way to chase down battery draw, try using amperage.

My voltage regulator on the alternator wiring would draw 10 volts, but at less than 1 milliamp, which will not kill the battery.

Also, a lot of fuses are supposed to get 12V when the key is off, the key is if there is an amperage draw across the two poles of the fuse when nothing is running (this includes interior lights).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you had anything wired recently?
All I have wired is a power wire to the HEI distributor and a negative off the distributor for the tach.

voltage is not the way to chase down battery draw, try using amperage.

My voltage regulator on the alternator wiring would draw 10 volts, but at less than 1 milliamp, which will not kill the battery.

Also, a lot of fuses are supposed to get 12V when the key is off, the key is if there is an amperage draw across the two poles of the fuse when nothing is running (this includes interior lights).
I'll have to check the amps, but I also unplugged the alternator and it was still drawing 10V. I'll see how many amps it is pulling.

Does anybody have a diagram for the fuse block? I don't remember where the fuses go that I took out, I kinda got pissed off.
 

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Have you put any armorall and the battey? You have a DMM (digital multi meter)? Put the fuses back in the block... Do a parasitic drain test...But you need a DMM for this, All you hae to do is disconnect the the negative batter cable....you said you dont have ECM anymore so you dont need a jumper wire..Take the negative cable off, put your DMM on Amps, connect DMM wire to the cable and to the battery terminals, Pull 1 fuses out at a time...I would do them all...Also check the ground wire with your DMM and see if that has any voltage to it...But also re-check the wires that you messed with!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So did this draw happen immediately after the swap?
Well I got the car and it had fuel injection and the wiring for the fuel injection was a mess. So I took it all off and I threw on an intake and carb that I had laying around. I'm not sure if it had a draw or not with the fuel injection.

Have you put any armorall and the battey? You have a DMM (digital multi meter)? Put the fuses back in the block... Do a parasitic drain test...But you need a DMM for this, All you hae to do is disconnect the the negative batter cable....you said you dont have ECM anymore so you dont need a jumper wire..Take the negative cable off, put your DMM on Amps, connect DMM wire to the cable and to the battery terminals, Pull 1 fuses out at a time...I would do them all...Also check the ground wire with your DMM and see if that has any voltage to it...But also re-check the wires that you messed with!
I'll test it out, thanks for the info. One thing, I need to know what fuses go where in the fuse block. Its an 86.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info, it will help me out a lot.

Disconnect your HEI and see if you still have a draw.
The wire going to it doesn't have power to it I know that. The wire I have going to the HEI was the wire going to the positive on the coil. I just added some wire to it and plugged it in to the distributor.
 

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I had a problem like yours after months of un-hooking the batt. every night I found my alternator had a short internally! I un hooked the 8 gauge wire(large one that charges the batt.) the local parts store hooked it up on their tester and said it was fine. a buddy loaned me a spare he had my problem went away!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had a problem like yours after months of un-hooking the batt. every night I found my alternator had a short internally! I un hooked the 8 gauge wire(large one that charges the batt.) the local parts store hooked it up on their tester and said it was fine. a buddy loaned me a spare he had my problem went away!
Is there anyway to ohm test the alternator to see if its shorted internally?
 

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I already told you, get a multimeter and check the amperage draw.

Volts and ohms are meaningless when you are trying to find a current draw. Current = amps.

And yes I know Ohm's law, just speaking from experience.
 
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