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Discussion Starter #141
Yep, go at it. Won't hurt nothing. Just don't use a lot of head. Wave it over the spot a few times and don't hold it still too long and you will be fine.

DO NOT. Use cheap easy outs or your going to have to buy a good set of easy outs to get the cheap one out when it breaks.
Doesn't heat make metal expand? lol
 

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He shouldn't need to torch it, its not like a seized bolt that snapped. It was over torqued. You should able to get away with just the easy out.
 

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Yep, go at it. Won't hurt nothing. Just don't use a lot of head. Wave it over the spot a few times and don't hold it still too long and you will be fine.

DO NOT. Use cheap easy outs or your going to have to buy a good set of easy outs to get the cheap one out when it breaks.
you have a point there, but its not like its a rusted seized up bolt. its got oil down in there and not seized, just over tightened. I would think a cheap easy out would do the job. as long as you smart with it.
 

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Doesn't heat make metal expand? lol
yes. so I would heat around the bolt. not directly on it. then spray a little lube on it after you heat since you will proly boil it out and be kinda dry.. just giving you my .02 on what I would be doing. just don't melt the aluminum dude. lol. ...or start a fire . but like bigchris said you really shouldn't have to heat it. just get a good bite on it and pull that bastard out.

I would think a left hand drill bit will do the job of getting it out
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Man I missed a lot. My phone died, I was soooo bored, any luck on the bolt?
I gotta go get a drill bit that will work for it lol I love way in the country, so going into town is a task in it's own. So... One more day haha
 

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Discussion Starter #149
I know what you mean. Town is 5 minutes away but the closest HD is 25 lol
Anything I can't get at oreilleys I gotta drive 40 minutes lol the kit I bought from them was trash, the drill dulled down so fast
 

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Yes metal expands with heat. That's why I told him to just focus the heat on the head and not the bolt. The heads are aluminum so the will heat up quick unlike the bolt so this part should be easy.

Even if the bolt is not seized, it will still help it out and loosed it up. Didn't he say he was having a hard time with the easy out?
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Yes metal expands with heat. That's why I told him to just focus the heat on the head and not the bolt. The heads are aluminum so the will heat up quick unlike the bolt so this part should be easy.

Even if the bolt is not seized, it will still help it out and loosed it up. Didn't he say he was having a hard time with the easy out?
Nah, I havnt tried yet, was saying that the left handed drill I got was crap.

I practiced on the broken pieces lol
 

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If you haven't already got the broken bolt out try getting your needle nose pliers on there, then grab some vice grips and clamp the vice grips onto the needle nose pliers to get it on there tight. I guess it depends how strong your needle nose pliers are though. Since you grinded them down a little they might not be as strong but it's worth a try I guess. Heres some pictures if you don't understand what I mean.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
If you haven't already got the broken bolt out try getting your needle nose pliers on there, then grab some vice grips and clamp the vice grips onto the needle nose pliers to get it on there tight. I guess it depends how strong your needle nose pliers are though. Since you grinded them down a little they might not be as strong but it's worth a try I guess. Heres some pictures if you don't understand what I mean.
Great idea, I'm gunna try that before I leave, thanks man
 

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I'm sure your really like em when it's all done And you will know a lot about cam **** lol
 

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Discussion Starter #158
I'll know these cam motherfuckers inside and out lol here's a thought, can I just reconnect my passenger side stock cam, then when I finish my drivers side, rotate the engine and slide it right in? I figure that would probly work since I just took it off
 

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I know this is a pain in the ass, but this is actually a great thread. No sarcasm or jokes in that statement. You're taking it step by step and documenting your issues and asking the right questions. Many people will find this thread insanely helpful in the future. I promise you are not and will not be the only person to have these problems.
 

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i've never installed cams on a 3v before but i have extracted many a broken bolt in my line of work before. there are a couple ways to go at it depending on the circumstances.
1. is there any "meat" on the bolt that you can use a hammer and chisel and back it out by tapping it around. if you try this, make certain you don't get into the threads. that will make it exponentially more difficult for the next step
2. easy out. its best to drill in the center of the bolt. use a center punch and indent the bolt where desired as needed. if you cant get a good center punch because the bolt snapped awkward, you can use a dremel or pencil grinder and a burr bit and knock off a little. when drilling, high speed isn't always the way to go. there is a feed rate and bit speed for each bit. bolts are hardened, so you need to start with a small bit and work your way up gradually. the bigger hole you can get in the bolt the bigger the easy out you can use and the more pressure it will relieve on the bolt. just to go back, start the drill slowly and get a good hole/indention going. small bits don't drill well at high speeds, they will burn up. which is probably what happened. if its really tight, you will need to use the appropriate sized easy out. a smaller easy out will break depending on the torque of the bolt. drill the bolt as deep as you can. the deeper the better. when using the easy out, tap it in firmly. don't hammer-slam the dickens out of it. it will come to a pretty abrupt stop. begin to loosen it. pay close attention if the easy out is turning the bolt or if it is slipping. if it begins to slip, tap on it a little bit more with the hammer. then try again. easy outs are hardened as well and will snap if you apply to much force and the bolt doesn't give. then you will be screwed, no drilling through that metal. that is why you want to use a bigger one. also, the square easy outs are better than the rounded/swirly ones.
3. if you have a welding machine, you can tack a nut on the end of the bolt. then use that nut to back out the broken bolt.
considering the price of a cyl. head is outrageous, and removing it a good little job, preperation here is key. cliff notes: drill the bolt out as best you can in the center. don't settle for a little hole, drill it almost completely out to the edge of the bolt threads. the drill bit will have a tendency to walk if not center punched so start slowly and let the bit dig out a good bit of metal. high speed generally isn't necessary unless you want to ruin your bit. tap the easy out in firmly. slowly apply force to loosen, tap easy out in further if it begins to slip. pay close attention. if you get a good bite, and bolt doesn't start backing out, be careful of easy out breaking. you'll be screwed if it does. THE END
 
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