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Discussion Starter #1
So my car was dieing after i would turn it off and i needed to jump it every time to get it started. I took the alternator and battery in and both were bad plusi got new battery cables becaause they were fuzzy with corrosion. The starter is almost brand new. I changed out the battery, alternator, and cables. I am stupid and wasnt paying attention and did the battery cables on the wrong terminals and something around the starter solenoid smoked and popped. My car wouldnt start so i bought a new solenoid and replaced it so we (me and my uncle) tried to start it. It wouldnt start. Sometimes it sounded like it was going to go and the crank would do a full rotation but nothing more. We didnt know if the battery was low even though it said it wasnt so we hooked up jumper cables to his van and tried but still just gives a quick try not even a turn almost as if something is holding it back. I do not know if this is anything but before the fuel relay would start up after turning the key to turn on the lights and stuff and it would stop after a few seconds. Now it justs keeps going. Lights all come on (cepts the speedometer and other meter lights. Amp lights and check oil and all those come on.) I dont think it is any of the parts i hooked up else the lights wouldnt come on and the starter would try to start it alittle. I am behond myself on what to do. I really want to ride this out until i get a new ride so does anyone have an idea?
 

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Sounds like you poped your FUSE LINKS at the starter solenoid. ( im not talking about normal fuses that you have inside your car) fuse links are like a sacrifical section of wire. If you look at your starter solenoid and start following the wires down.... youll see what looks like bulges in the wire, like splices. Those are the fuse links. Youll need to test them. If there bad, youll need to cut them out and solder and shrink wrap new ones in. Each one should be rated and have the gauge listed on them. Replace with the same size.
 

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My plan for my car was to install an under hood fuse box from a 2000 v6 mustang and get rid of the fuse links all togeather. But before i did it, i was adviced not to do it. The answer i got, ( why not to do it) wasnt a vary good reason, but never the less, i didnt do it.

The problem with fuse boxes, is when a fuse blows..... people tend to just put bigger fuses in, instead of figuring out the problem, and by just putting in bigger fuses youll either, destroy the wiring, damage what ever the fuse is protecting or start a fire.

The second reason i got was. That a fuse link pops and a different rate, or some thing like that. There was more to it then that.. but... wait, ill just find my old thread, and if you choose to read it, maybe it will help.

The problem i had is the newer mustangs use fuses a circuit brakers, thats why i was having a hard time figuring out, why a fuse box was such a bad idea

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/5-0-mustangs/241807-under-hood-fuse-box.html

And this should also help you

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif


Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So according to the diagram the yellow cable that splits off into 4 isnt the starter cable. interesting. we checked the four wires (as well as we could with a voltage meter) and they all clocked 12.5 amps or volts i dont remember.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you know what i made another noob mistake again. Its a 1989 5.0 LX
i always forget to post what type it is
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well we checked the connections earlier and they seem to work but nothing to our avail. The Dark green wire that goes to the alternator and something else is totally broken. Would that cause the car to try to start and make the fuel pump relay continuously run?
 

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I bet you fried the ground strap from the block to the firewall. Just a guess but that's what comes to my mind
 

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Make sure your checking for power after the fuse link, not before.

One of those fuse links is for the computer/ ignition
 
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