I have an 08 GT and bought the Eibach Pro-Kit Springs. The dealership wants $400 to install them plus $68 for alignment. They said if I put the rear ones on myself it would save me about half for installing the front. I found one other place called Chassis Systems in my area that said they can do it for $220 WITH alignment. They said if I installed the rear ones myself it would save me $80. I'm not sure if they have lazer alignment or not, but is that really necessary? And, how difficult is it to install the front ones? Also, will I need anything else like camber adjuster plates? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thanx
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Spring Install
demon-cleaner
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I have an 08 GT and bought the Eibach Pro-Kit Springs. The dealership wants $400 to install them plus $68 for alignment. They said if I put the rear ones on myself it would save me about half for installing the front. I found one other place called Chassis Systems in my area that said they can do it for $220 WITH alignment. They said if I installed the rear ones myself it would save me $80. I'm not sure if they have lazer alignment or not, but is that really necessary? And, how difficult is it to install the front ones? Also, will I need anything else like camber adjuster plates? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thanx
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3,462 Posts
hmmm do it yourself its not hard maybe 4 hours tops hahaha
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I say do it yourself and save that money for other mods. If you got a jack, jack stands and some basic tools you can do it yourself. I did both of my cars myself with no problems. You can actually print step by step instructions off the internet with pictures to go by. You will need an adjustable panhard bar too with those springs .
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the rear really is silly easy on these cars... support the rear, kick out the old spring.. then for the front, two jacks one under the spindle... disconnect strut up top then raise spindle jack... compress spring... goes back together just the opposite, using the weight of the car.. easy greasy
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you can get away with under 2k...i spent 1.5k on mine...BMR lowering Kit should be enough for lowering. I heard the price went up on them, but at the time I also ordered BMR billet aluminum lower control arms, BMR adj. upper control arm, BMR tubular subframe connectors, Tokico D Spec shocks and struts The only other part Id strongly recommend besides the lowering kit is an adj. upper control arm to adjust the pinion angle of your driveshaft.
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yea piggy is right... you do it under 2k... the key is too balance everything.. you might want adjustable shocks? or just performance valved versions... adj panhard, and adj tie rod ends up front to fix that negative camber that just ruins good tires FAST..ill add to that... piggy has a nice suspension setup for not a whole lot of money it looks like anway.
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69 Posts
Demon,
I'm new to this forum and to the S197 mustangs, but I lowered my 08 with the same springs and nothing else. I took it to tires plus to get an alignment to see how far off everything would be. I'm within specs on everything (they did have to correct the toe in/out) but my camber is at -1.5 deg(this was the MAX negative limit BTW) but hey, neg camber improves handling anyway. I've put 1800 miles since lowering. Tire wear, so far, is normal. The car rides more like a "sports" car now. (It's really not that bad). And even though I haven't taken a tape measure to it, my rear axle doesn't look that offset. ( this isn't an issue until I upgrade to wider wheels/rubber anyway). Save your money. Do it yourself if you can and don't buy all that other stuff.
I'm new to this forum and to the S197 mustangs, but I lowered my 08 with the same springs and nothing else. I took it to tires plus to get an alignment to see how far off everything would be. I'm within specs on everything (they did have to correct the toe in/out) but my camber is at -1.5 deg(this was the MAX negative limit BTW) but hey, neg camber improves handling anyway. I've put 1800 miles since lowering. Tire wear, so far, is normal. The car rides more like a "sports" car now. (It's really not that bad). And even though I haven't taken a tape measure to it, my rear axle doesn't look that offset. ( this isn't an issue until I upgrade to wider wheels/rubber anyway). Save your money. Do it yourself if you can and don't buy all that other stuff.
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I install them for $150 including alignment.
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Thanx everyone for the input! I do plan on doing the rest of the suspension later. I just want to wait for about 2 years or 8k miles. Will this ruin anything if I wait that long? I just bouhgt new wheels and tires today and also a Steeda cowl induction hood. all my mods are really adding up fast! if i do much more right now, I will be getting a divorce...lol
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93 Posts
Also...is a lazer alignment necessary after lowering?
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93 Posts
Jay'sred,...do you have a link to the directions and pics?
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at the least I would make sure you get an adj. upper control arm with them. My pinion angle off. If you care about performance then the other suspension parts are key. Stock Lower Control Arms + Eiback Pro Kit = Worst Wheel Hop possible. The ride is pretty harsh but you don't need aftermarket shocks/struts. Camber bolts should be added so you don't wear the tires out, Porndexter said his was at the max. For $40 bucks you can put them in when the springs are changed. An adjustable panhard rod is nice to center the rear again. Most of these suspension mods are done if you are interested in performance. Just springs alone will more than likely harm your times at the track. Added wheel hop and wrong pinion angle FTL!
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I guess the guy I bought the car from must have done something to it... I have spun the wheels a bunch and never felt a hop. I am lowered 2".. I even ran drag radials at the track and not a hop to be found... the lowering was done before I bought it
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I'm not too worried about performance right now, if you couldn't already tell. I just love the way these cars look lowered! I just hope I can get away with springs alone for about 8k miles without ruining anything. I just dropped $8k into it since January and I haven't even got it out of the garage yet this year! I don't go to the track yet, so if it won't harm anything I hope to wait for the rest. Is there anything that is a MUST DO with the springs? other than the alignment?
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5,636 Posts
no other suspension work at all? I'm willing to bet money that you have a high amount of negative camber, your rear end is over 1/8th inch to the left, your pinion angle is way off, your control arms are lower in the back than in the front. I'll also bet money that your track times will improve with all of those factors put back into spec. I used to get a little wheel hop, now I don't even spin much with my foot to the floor, i hook and go. You have a KB though so that clearly means you'd spin more off of a launch. With a suspension you would hook better as the factory stamped steel is garbage and flexes a lot.
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5,636 Posts
BMR lowering kit...it includes everything you need for the most part. Springs, Adj. Panhard Rod, Camber Bolts, Control Arm relocation brackets, New OEM upper strut mounts.
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93 Posts
I want to thank all you guys for your helpful information. I went ahead a bought the Steeda adj. pan hard bar and the camber plates. The rest will have to wait for now.
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