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Gas tank material?

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. I only wanted to know because I will be storing the car for 8 months and I'm worried about rusting the tanks since its steel.
 
#5 ·
Makes no difference if you store the car or you drive it everyday. The rate depends on the difference in conditions of that daily drive or that storage. A metal shed with no ventilation or insulation in an area with large temperature changes between day and night could be worse than just sitting outside.
 
#8 ·
My foxes sit for LOOOONG periods of time and have for over a decade. I've gone as little as 60 miles in a 2 year period and I don't start them unless I am going to drive them [see Note 1]. I do nothing but disconnect the battery and maybe some sta-bil after I fill up. In my opinion.... think about the concept of taking the pressure off the suspension for storage... Your car sitting for a long period at once or sitting in your driveway 16-23 hours a day and 1-8 while on the road on a daily driver makes no difference. That car since the day it rolled off the assembly line has had the weight on the suspension unless you are frequently going airborne. It sits on the four tires it's whole life. Same with the fluids, diff, coolant, and brake fluid break down over time with wear and contamination. Sitting not driving does not change that, if anything, they would last longer with the car in storage. It is a great idea to replace fluids as often as you like and maybe using the storage factor as a convenient time is good but if anything, I'd maybe do it after storage before driving it again to have fresh for the driving season when the real demands on them are there. Your call I guess. I don't have a specific replacement pattern, it depends on how often i drive them. If you are going to store it lifted up for some reason, rest it on stands as close to the wheels on the suspension as possible, like front control arms and rearend tubes close to the shock mounts, those places will put the weight where it usually is and be close to simulating the same places that hold weight while it is on the ground, that defeats the purpose of "resting the springs" but springs are easily replaceable and wear and sag anyway. You do not want the weight resting in other places the car was not designed for when it is on the ground because the body/frame could eventually take on a new shape and you may find your doors won't close after a few months. I've personally seen this happen on two cars, one an 84 Mustang that went through a rear rebuild that got delayed. Two years later when it was put back down, it was twisted. Another was a early 80's GM X body, those were pieces of crap anyway but 2 months in the air for a trans rebuild and bent to crap. Again, just my opinion...

As for tires..
It sucks replacing tires that look brand new and only have 1000 miles on them but 6-8 years after manufacture date as noted by the DOT code on the tire is pushing it for radials regardless of miles. You can go more if you desire but it's not worth it to me. I'm probably one of the few people that still has 1/2 tread left on a BFG drag radial after a few years but they need replaced before I take the car out again.

Note 1
So far, they start first crank every time, even after sitting for a year. No sputters or anything. I had emissions checks every two years in my area so before I test, I have to suck out or drive out the old gas and put fresh in and drive about 50 miles or so before it will pass. Finally, they've both hit 25 years old and this was my last year for emissions tests on them.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
nolife said:
My foxes sit for LOOOONG periods of time and have for over a decade. I've gone as little as 60 miles in a 2 year period and I don't start them unless I am going to drive them [see Note 1]. I do nothing but disconnect the battery and maybe some sta-bil after I fill up. In my opinion.... think about the concept of taking the pressure off the suspension for storage... Your car sitting for a long period at once or sitting in your driveway 16-23 hours a day and 1-8 while on the road on a daily driver makes no difference. That car since the day it rolled off the assembly line has had the weight on the suspension unless you are frequently going airborne. It sits on the four tires it's whole life. Same with the fluids, diff, coolant, and brake fluid break down over time with wear and contamination. Sitting not driving does not change that, if anything, they would last longer with the car in storage. It is a great idea to replace fluids as often as you like and maybe using the storage factor as a convenient time is good but if anything, I'd maybe do it after storage before driving it again to have fresh for the driving season when the real demands on them are there. Your call I guess. I don't have a specific replacement pattern, it depends on how often i drive them. If you are going to store it lifted up for some reason, rest it on stands as close to the wheels on the suspension as possible, like front control arms and rearend tubes close to the shock mounts, those places will put the weight where it usually is and be close to simulating the same places that hold weight while it is on the ground, that defeats the purpose of "resting the springs" but springs are easily replaceable and wear and sag anyway. You do not want the weight resting in other places the car was not designed for when it is on the ground because the body/frame could eventually take on a new shape and you may find your doors won't close after a few months. I've personally seen this happen on two cars, one an 84 Mustang that went through a rear rebuild that got delayed. Two years later when it was put back down, it was twisted. Another was a early 80's GM X body, those were pieces of crap anyway but 2 months in the air for a trans rebuild and bent to crap. Again, just my opinion...

As for tires..
It sucks replacing tires that look brand new and only have 1000 miles on them but 6-8 years after manufacture date as noted by the DOT code on the tire is pushing it for radials regardless of miles. You can go more if you desire but it's not worth it to me. I'm probably one of the few people that still has 1/2 tread left on a BFG drag radial after a few years but they need replaced before I take the car out again.

Note 1
So far, they start first crank every time, even after sitting for a year. No sputters or anything. I had emissions checks every two years in my area so before I test, I have to suck out or drive out the old gas and put fresh in and drive about 50 miles or so before it will pass. Finally, they've both hit 25 years old and this was my last year for emissions tests on them.
Click to expand...
I agree with your thought process on storage in regards to loading/unloading the suspension. It will be sitting on all 4 wheels like it always has. The car is due for an oil change but I won't be changing it until I get back to the car in 8 months. I'll fill the tank and add some stabilizer. Tires are almost bald and need replaced anyways, so I'm not worried about them. It'll get new ones eventually. Really my only concern with this whole ordeal was whether or not the tank will rust, but I imagine that if it's full the whole time with some stabilizer in it, it will probably be OK.

On a side note, why do you not drive your cars? How many miles are on them? Are they all original? Did you buy them new?
 
#10 ·
93Bandit said:
On a side note, why do you not drive your cars? How many miles are on them? Are they all original? Did you buy them new?
Click to expand...
I bought the black 91 new. I used to drive it everywhere. I put 100K in the first 3 years, another 50K in the next three only 6K since then. 100% original and untouched except a few non original items like the flowmaster catback, 02 sensors, fan clutch, radiator, hoses, Monroe shocks and struts, front rotors, inner/outer tie rods ends, spark plug wires, and sway bar bushings. Nothing on the engine has been touched, except for cap and rotor and belt driven stuff (reman Motorcraft replacements). Not even a single intake bolt or a valve cover bolt has been touched. That being said. It still has a lot of mileage so it is WAY worth more to me than the market would pay. Fine with me. I only drive it around occasionally to the store and just for a drive. I keep it in order. I'd feel comfortable getting in it and driving it anywhere.

My red 88, some elses failed project I picked up and finished about 10 years ago. Has is reported to have 188K miles, has an early 2000 Ford crate 5.0 with a vortech. I actually did drive that one more (maybe 2K a year). Puts out roughly 470 and still has working AC. About 18 months ago I replaced the gas tank, fuel pump, and sending unit. I have one more step until it is done, a plastic clip that holds the fuel line to the fuel filter. LOL. It's been 18 months and I haven't done that yet. Next spring, I'll finish that and get some new tires and I'll be driving it again. The T5 is whining bad and I feel it could go at any time.

91 notch (not in my picture) below)
Project car we just got a few months ago. No plates. I drove it around the neighborhood a few weeks ago and trans was slipping so it will sit for a while.

02 GT
It gets driven. maybe 2-5k miles a year. On good weather days during the other 3 seasons. I bought it about 8 years ago with around 110K miles. It has roughly 145K now. Close to stock with some bolt-ons.

We have quite a few other cars so the Mustangs are all extras and not needed.
 
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93Bandit
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