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#41 ·
boring and stroking the motor with higher compression. Nasty cams and really done up heads valves etc. Potted intake manifolds. Throttle body etc. I beleive over 400 to the wheels could be done no prob fully n/a. Depends on how radical of a car your willing to build. I don't know for sure but with a full drag build for a strip only car 500+ n/a should def be possible. My friends 240sx with the crappy 2400 made 360 to the wheels n/a I'd imagine a 4.6could do alot more. And the streetabilty is still up there. Granite he DD'd it and it blew up due to its not meant to be driven like that
 
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Discussion starter · #42 ·
I am keeping the same bore.. Stroke maybe a differant story.. For now until I feel the need for more I am gonna go 11:1 pistons, 150 shot, tune, Heads and cams, and rear end..
 
#43 ·
BlackSunshine said:
I am keeping the same bore.. Stroke maybe a differant story.. For now until I feel the need for more I am gonna go 11:1 pistons, 150 shot, tune, Heads and cams, and rear end..
Click to expand...

Why would you keep the same bore? I doubt that you be able to anyway. Usualy have to go .020 over to clean up the cylinders. I wouldn't stroke it either. Stock stroke is better for a higher revving car like the 4v.
 
#49 · (Edited)
This is what I consider bolt ons

cold air intake
mass air meter
throttle body
intake spacer
Port and polished intake manifold
UDP's
headers
mid pipe
cat back
Aluminum DS
gears
Upper and lower control arms
sub frame connectors
springs
shocks and struts
short throw for the manual
Adjustable clutch cable and quadrant
upgraded clutch
light weight or aluminum flywheel
tune
Stewart water pump or Electric water pump

Then there are the "intermediate" bolt ons if you will.

Cams
billet cam spacers
Port and Polished heads
aftermarket or worked over valves
Better oil pump or billet pump gears
Then comes the big project stuff

Pistons
rings
rods
crank
block


I might have missed a couple but thats how I break it down anyway. A true "full" bolt on car to me has all the components from the top list and has never even pulled a valve cover off.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
So without the intermediate bolt-ons how much do you suppose a full bolt-on setup would cost??
 
#53 ·
Doc8224 said:
This is what I consider bolt ons

cold air intake
mass air meter
throttle body
intake spacer
Port and polished intake manifold
UDP's
headers
mid pipe
cat back
Aluminum DS
gears
Upper and lower control arms
sub frame connectors
springs
shocks and struts
short throw for the manual
Adjustable clutch cable and quadrant
upgraded clutch
light weight or aluminum flywheel
tune
Stewart water pump or Electric water pump

Then there are the "intermediate" bolt ons if you will.

Cams
billet cam spacers
Port and Polished heads
aftermarket or worked over valves
Better oil pump or billet pump gears
Then comes the big project stuff

Pistons
rings
rods
crank
block


I might have missed a couple but thats how I break it down anyway. A true "full" bolt on car to me has all the components from the top list and has never even pulled a valve cover off.
Click to expand...
Thanks doc but dont you think you would be pushing a least 350-380 with those mods not countin the intermideate. Cause you think some of that stuff would not only give you hp and tq but free up some from what you already have

... forgive me if i sound like i dont know what im talkin about
 
#55 ·
so a built motor in the end is a bran new motor made entirely of aftermarket parts. to an extent. minus the parts that are just ported and polished.. etc.. etc..

and by bran new i mean old parts replaced by 'new' aftermarket parts
 
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#56 ·
Black02GT said:
so a built motor in the end is a bran new motor made entirely of aftermarket parts. to an extent. minus the parts that are just ported and polished.. etc.. etc..

and by bran new i mean old parts replaced by 'new' aftermarket parts
Click to expand...
Yes, by what we mean a built is. Taking the motor apart, and rebuilding it with upgraded parts, in the event of making more power, you're not just going to reassemble it. You're going to machine the the block, heads, intake, and then put it back together. You may change the characteristics of the engine when doing this. Such as building the motor to rev out more, and to make peak power at higher rpms, you may build it for forced induction. You can do whatever you want, as long you have deep enough pockets, and the ability to, or connections to build one off custim fabricated parts. I believe that engine building is an art, famous engine builders like Smokey Yunick are artist.
 
#58 ·
yeah so i was right, in a sense your getting rid of the 4v when its all said and done. bc it will be a completly custom built motor
 
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