This will be the first time to swap just the rotors front and rear on my mustang and wondering if I am just swaping rotors out , will I have to compress the caliper just to change rotors?? I know I need a special tool for the rear calipers. I know how to take off the caliper , but compressing the piston and decompress the piston back sounds like a pain. Any input is appreciated
HELP! Just changing brake rotors
Saleen0101
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This will be the first time to swap just the rotors front and rear on my mustang and wondering if I am just swaping rotors out , will I have to compress the caliper just to change rotors?? I know I need a special tool for the rear calipers. I know how to take off the caliper , but compressing the piston and decompress the piston back sounds like a pain. Any input is appreciated
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can someone give meee a rundown on how to change pads n rotors?? Im doing mine this weekend
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5,120 Posts
jack up the car..
there will be 2 bolts holding the cliper to the bracket take those off....
slide the caliper up and secure it somehow, don't let it hang..
the will be 2 Phillips head screws holding the rotor on. take those off
the rotor can be a bitch to get off. on my car there are threaded holes for screws to be screwed in to that push it off...
put the new rotor on..
put the new pads in the caliper. don't forget the little brackets that go on each side of the pad
use a caliper tool to press the piston on the caliper in. on my car there are 2 on the front 1 on the back.
make sure the rotor surface is clean. good time to clean everything in their with break cleaner.
slide the caliper back on there and bolt it back up.
make sure you look up all your torque specs. some people don't use them, but i always do they are there for a reason.
and i know i am forgetting something.. i can never explain this stuff right, but it is really simple man. just make sure you pump your brakes a couple of times when your done before you drive off
there will be 2 bolts holding the cliper to the bracket take those off....
slide the caliper up and secure it somehow, don't let it hang..
the will be 2 Phillips head screws holding the rotor on. take those off
the rotor can be a bitch to get off. on my car there are threaded holes for screws to be screwed in to that push it off...
put the new rotor on..
put the new pads in the caliper. don't forget the little brackets that go on each side of the pad
use a caliper tool to press the piston on the caliper in. on my car there are 2 on the front 1 on the back.
make sure the rotor surface is clean. good time to clean everything in their with break cleaner.
slide the caliper back on there and bolt it back up.
make sure you look up all your torque specs. some people don't use them, but i always do they are there for a reason.
and i know i am forgetting something.. i can never explain this stuff right, but it is really simple man. just make sure you pump your brakes a couple of times when your done before you drive off
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182 Posts
Hey mpboy, I am having trouble getting the stock rotors off. I already removed bottom bolt to get caliper off and removed the two bolts that hold the caliper bridge off. Is there anything else that is hold the rotor on?? I cant seem to make it budge . I see alot of rust and I think it could be seized on tight. Any thoughts?
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11,127 Posts
Ive used a C clamp in the past to compress pistons with out issues. You do need a fairly large on though.
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63 Posts
not hard at all, ive done cross drilled and slotted on my GT in under 20 minutes. Takes longer to take the front wheels off then to change rotors. just remember to pump brakes when your done before you drive the car. clean new rotors off before install with brake clean. suggest a good set of pads---HAWK.
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194 Posts
The Rotor will just be sitting on the bearing hub. Once you got the caliphar and caliphar mount off. Take the biggest pry bar you got and pry the rotor off. If its your first time taking it off it will be a real pain.
I had to crank on mine first time, 200+lbs of force on that prybar, but it came loose.
When you put your new one on, antiseize is your friend, wont have to fight it ever again.
I had to crank on mine first time, 200+lbs of force on that prybar, but it came loose.
When you put your new one on, antiseize is your friend, wont have to fight it ever again.
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5,120 Posts
yes they can be a PITA.. im going to say dont use a prybar, sometimes you can use a rubber mallet, just dont break anything, just work at it
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182 Posts
I tried pb blaster with the rubber mallet to no avail . I have no choice now but to use a sledge hammer. I cant believe how seized up they are.
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1,291 Posts
Take a dead blow hammer and dont hit the surface of the rotor, but where the hat is on it. Give it a few good wacks in between the studs, spin do it 90 degrees from where you did it last time and repeat the prcoess until it pops off. I do this everyday at work and havent had one beat me yet!! Good luck
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182 Posts
Thanks man I might try that. I've never used a dead blow hammer though, how much do they run? So you dont think the sledge hammer idea is gonna work?
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1,291 Posts
Well, a dead blow hammer doesnt have as much recoil becuase it relies or intertia. It has sand or rice or something to that effect so when you strike an object you get the force you apply plus the force of intertia which in turn gives you less recoil and a more solid hit. Harbor frieght carries them. I got mine off of the snap on tool truck that comes by work and paid a whopping 98 bucks. They arent that expensive if you go through harbor freight. Let me find a linky
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1,291 Posts
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
This would be something I'd look at investing in.
This would be something I'd look at investing in.
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182 Posts
OK guys I really appreciate all the help and suggestions. However, I am one step away from taking my car somewhere so they can try to remove the front rotors because they are really fused to the hub. I dont want to say I want to give up , but it is that bad lol. Do you guys think a 3 jaw puller will work? I dont want to stress on the wheel hub too much.
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2,054 Posts
I've had one kick my ass and it was my own truck at the time. Ever try 97-98 4x4 F150 rotors? Oh.... my.... god!! I along with a few other friends that worked there hit the rotor so damn hard it crack all the way around the hub. When we finally got it off it was just about in two pieces. The rotors was like a huge ring lol
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182 Posts
I finally got it off using the 4 jaw puller. It was really rusted pretty bad. I dented the rubber cap on the wheel hub on both front and wondering what ist purpose is for? It says on it" do not remove" and lubricated. Is it ok that I dented it in?
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