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07stanggt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
are not for racing.

No matter how good the qaulity, if you overheat them on the race track they will crack. 99% of them.

In a 3700plb (counting driver) 400hp mustang you will overheat them and you will buy new rotors.

They are fine for the street and will last as long if not longer then OEM. But they are for looks.

This is after talking to stoptech, baer and brembo about my options.

My new race setup since i dont want big brakes for a couple reasons. OEM rotors, apparently there are two choices there from ford i got the OEM and not motorcraft option, hawk hps+ pads, the braided lines and some cooling ducts.

Live and learn.
 
#3 ·
im not knocking what u said but maybe im confused or dumb, but i thought cross drilled slotted rotors were made 4 racing, i mean the drills for more sufficient cooling and the slots to rid of heat quicker right.? i think i need some schooling because i was just thinking about buying some
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
tarpeeler said:
im not knocking what u said but maybe im confused or dumb, but i thought cross drilled slotted rotors were made 4 racing, i mean the drills for more sufficient cooling and the slots to rid of heat quicker right.? i think i need some schooling because i was just thinking about buying some
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So did i! Yes the drilled rotors are suppose to keep them cooler and they probably do, but your still going to overheat them and if you do they will crack.

They are fine for the street. but for real race track use you dont want them.

The way to go would be slotted or just flat 14 inch rotors. There is a setup from baer that come with a bracket to move your stock calipers. but im not sure if my bullits have the offset needed. I would get 4 piston calipers with 14 inch rotors but then i need new rims.

Emay said:
A major reason I broke down on the slotted and dimpled.

I wasn't aware you were breaking rotors, missed a post somewhere huh?
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The slotted rotors would be better they said. After last friday i noticed a small crack on the right front rotor, i wasnt two worried about it. then tuesday i had the wheels off to get the tires balanced becuaes most of my weights came off. I saw that the rotor has about 6 cracks in it one that goes all the way around and it was like shattered in on part. Like paint cracking.

So i called stoptech and said hey im not complaining, these have a 25,000 miles on them but is this normal after racing and they said thats why we say on our site that the cross drilled rotors are not for racing. To bad i didnt order them from their site.

Image
 
#6 ·
drilled makes the rotor lighter (and turns out it disipates heat also.) The slotted will also disipate heat. I have heard that drilled rotors are harder on the pads and wear faster. That is why when I get the stoptech kit from rich It's gonna be the slotted.
 
#7 ·
That's what happens when you let a drag racer turn left and right instead of just going strait, he burns up the brakes j/k:D:p
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
mustang fanatic said:
I wonder why they put cross drilled on lambos and other exotic cars then??
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Well there was a ferrari challenge race car at that track and he didnt have drilled or slotted rotors on his car.

Again, this isnt spirited street driveing. this is racing and the rotors on the stang are smoking after a 20minute session. then your cooling them down and doing it again an hour later. Its only the left front, i said right front earlier but its the left. the right front has one small crack in it. the back rotors are fine.

There was no crack after the shenandoah circtuit three weeks ago. But the main summit track is a much faster track. your carrying 120 to 130mph into 4 of the 10 turns and the fastest turns are left handers so maybe the left front was just working harder.

But both stoptech and baer told me the same thing, if racing it, dont get drilled.

The issue with the exotics is less weight, bigger rotors maybe to begin with that dont heat up as much. but im on the brakes in this stang so hard that the ass is wiggling, im locking up antilock brakes on that track. In april i'll try to get a vid.

Maybe its a matter of getting the most expensive drilled rotors out there like cryo treated or something. but stoptech told me that does not make that much of a difference.

I see some street porshes there with drilled rotors and maybe its just a better overall system and they dont have the problem. maybe they arent going into turns as hard as me. I passed porshes and vettes on that track. Im not bragging, im just saying i obviously pushed those rotors too hard and the brake companies said, go with flat or slotted.
 
#13 ·
Listen guys, all you need is slotted rotors. I use a company called rotopro and all they do is slot the stock brakes.

I have ran the stock rotors (slotted) and calipers with steel braided lines and hawk pads and have been on the same set of brakes for 2 years and stop the car from 130+ mph consistently.

The best part is my brakes cost $400:)
 
#14 ·
i will say after having the Brembo 14" on my Boyd/Roush, slotted rotors eat pads! They work awesome, but be prepared to replace pads. I have never had drilled, so no comment. I have read time and time again that drilled are only for street, street/track, not full blown race, as they will fail.
 
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#16 ·
tarpeeler said:
im not knocking what u said but maybe im confused or dumb, but i thought cross drilled slotted rotors were made 4 racing, i mean the drills for more sufficient cooling and the slots to rid of heat quicker right.? i think i need some schooling because i was just thinking about buying some
Click to expand...
The cross drilled rotors (used for racing) are uber pricy and usually made of some ceramic space age ****. Not to mention race teams have $$$ coming out their rears and can replace often. The ones commercially available not to mention some what affordable to us average joes are not made for the high heat and stresses of racing and as Rich stated are more for show. Slotted Rotors are the way to go for us better structural integrity and will not crack like drilled rotors. If you want an affordable brake upgrade get some Power Slot (or comparable) slotter OEM size rotors, hawk HPS pads, and braided stainless lines. (like rich said)
 
#18 ·
The cross drilling is also to give gasses created by the pads during braking a place to go rather than build-up between the pad and rotor allowing for better stopping.
 
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#20 ·
I just went through a pair for R1 Rotors and Hawk HPS pads in 1 1/2 years and 15k miles. no auto X or roadcourse. The rotors have cracks all over them. I like the look of slotted/drilled rotors though which is the only reason to buy them. Just ordered a pair of Baer Decelarotors. They're made in China like most inexpensive rotors, so we'll see.
 
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psycho bob
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