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s197 Traction??? TAKE TWO

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
here is the Cliff's notes I compiled from these threads so far....




***Most people with S197's are to concerned with looks. If you ask me, this is the root of 90% of the problem with traction. You can't expect to have traction with 20 inch tall rims with rubber band sidewalls.....

Sure Nitto make's 20" drag radials now, but there still not going to hook like a 18" drag radial with a 26" tall tire or better.

1/4 mile Traction = 70% Tire 20% setup and 10% driver.

I say 70% tire because any idiot in a auto v8 mustang with LCA's and full slicks can pull wicked 60' times as long as there car makes power.

That being said... A good driver with full slicks and an auto that makes power can pull the wheels off the ground on a very stock car.... HotRodHarry- in the 10's on drag radials....... Stock trans,rear end and bottom end on 13psi. Saleen blower.

So. Get your setup right, get good tires and go to the track. You'll find traction. No matter your setup... Adam@ST is running a kb 2.8 mammoth on his GT IIRC and his times are dynomite!


***If you have a nearly 500 horsepower car on the street and you expect to have traction... Don't run a 20" tire with a skinny sidewall... If its a daily driver you can't expect to lift the wheels but you can find enough traction to fend off the competition. 07_Procharger runs down C6's on stock 18" 8.5" wheels.
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thanks for gettin this back on track.... well for my interest N E ways

***Thats usually kids that got mummy n daddy to 'pony' up 6K for supercharger ONLY and pissed b/c he keeps getting his ass handed to him by bolt on cars w/ good drivers and suspension/gears..... never had the "mommy & daddy" option... dad passed before I could drive and I didn't own anything nice till I was in my thirties, but I know what you are sayin

***Getting traction is not that difficult... lots of soft rubber, weight transfer, experienced driver (as in not me) decent track prep...it does cost money though to put all those pieces together....... this is what I need to know... specifics

***what are you launching at? 3000-3200... still spinnin

***Well, is the OP using Poly mounting points?---- urethane all around

*** might consider investing in a 15" or 16" wheel to get a little more meat under there. the more sidewall you have the better it will "bite" at the track

***pinion angle would probably help, along with a few other suspension mods

????does the angle change for auto/manual--- me
 
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#23 · (Edited)
Pinion angle should be set the same for either auto or manual, it's about the geometry of the drivetrain under a load. You want everything to line up straight when under torque. That's why with more power, the pinion angle will be slightly more negative. Also, what works for one car might not work for another, each car is a little different. It's best to experiment and find what is right for your setup specifically, but you can use other peoples specs as a starting point.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
It is sitting at 550rwhp and 585rwtq right now...I am looking at maybe doing a different power adder later but it is a vert after all and is never going to be the fastest... I think I will be happy if I could run 10.99 all day at the strip and drive it to the golf course the next morning... then drop the top for a date in the evening.. I have 2.5 sets of wheels for it already so I am not looking to have one setup for everything... I don't do much street racing so rolling around on 20's in the summer is fine... My stocker 17's with the Perelli's are good enough for the winter,as little as it will be driven... and I have 2 17x9 rims I am going to put the 325 45r17 M&H Racemaster DR's on... I am really leaning twards the 9" rear and 6 speed...I don't want to waste any $$$ on stuff that won't work with that... and I will have my pinion set at the same time.... I don't do this stuff myself... I don't mind supporting the local speed shops
 
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#25 ·
2006greyGT said:
It is sitting at 550rwhp and 585rwtq right now...I am looking at maybe doing a different power adder later but it is a vert after all and is never going to be the fastest... I think I will be happy if I could run 10.99 all day at the strip and drive it to the golf course the next morning... then drop the top for a date in the evening.. I have 2.5 sets of wheels for it already so I am not looking to have one setup for everything... I don't do much street racing so rolling around on 20's in the summer is fine... My stocker 17's with the Perelli's are good enough for the winter,as little as it will be driven... and I have 2 17x9 rims I am going to put the 325 45r17 M&H Racemaster DR's on... I am really leaning twards the 9" rear and 6 speed...I don't want to waste any $$$ on stuff that won't work with that... and I will have my pinion set at the same time.... I don't do this stuff myself... I don't mind supporting the local speed shops
Click to expand...

I evny you....... :p

Anyway, I think you are on the right track with a 9" and the 6 speed. Save you so much hassle down the road. Especially the 9".
 
#26 ·
how does an auto install in a manual car... it seems like it would be a bitch
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The 4stb-e actually uses the computer from the manual transmission (mine was a 5 speed). Don't think install was bad at all. It is an automatic but has full-manual valve-body, so drives like a stick. Sort-of a manual without a clutch. Not claiming this is the right choice for a true daily driver...there may be better options...but if you're planning on racing at the strip a fair amount, the 4stb-e might be right for you. It has 3 forward gears. The transbrake button is reverse. Overdrive and TC lockup are buttons.
 
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#28 ·
i'm kinda confused. do you want traction on the street or not. cuz if you do you're not going to get it with those 20's and that much power as you already know. maybe when you get the itch to mess with people you could throw on the 17's with the m&h dr's and get some matching fronts and drive around town for a week or so. probably wouldn't have nearly as much problems with traction around town then. maybe a little still....maybe. just make sure it's not raining
 
#29 ·
psycho bob said:
i'm kinda confused. do you want traction on the street or not. cuz if you do you're not going to get it with those 20's and that much power as you already know. maybe when you get the itch to mess with people you could throw on the 17's with the m&h dr's and get some matching fronts and drive around town for a week or so. probably wouldn't have nearly as much problems with traction around town then. maybe a little still....maybe. just make sure it's not raining
Click to expand...
While I agree. I think he would be fine on 18's with some 305 or better width tires with a decent sidewall. That way he can still fill the wheels wells with a tire that doesn't look funny (as in HUGE sidewall on a small rim. )
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Yea... I am not at all concerned with getin beat on the street... If I do race there it is a set up thing and I have plenty of time to put on the DR's.. As long as I am going to break the bank... might wrap the 20's with those Nitto's... I could get a little taller street tire for the 17's as well...
is this tranny OK??? T56 T-56 Ford Mustang Cobra Tremec 6 Speed Transmission
 
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#31 ·
first of all do you still have the sway bar on? second of all what type of upper and lower controls are you using are the poly or rod ends? and what shock are you running? if you are lowered 2" and dont have a adjustable upper your pinion angle is WAY off and that will effect traction greatly, if running poly ends -4 degree is were you want to be....if rod end use -2 to -3. A well setup track suspension will perform even better on the street. Also the taller tire you can get for the 20" DR will help you greatly with roll out. Bottom line if you want the car to hook up you are going to have to make sacrifices some were or just be content with it spinning all the time. Also just changing tires is not the end all answer to traction issues it a combination thing.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
I still have the sway bar on.. but it is a daily driver...well sort of... I like it ot be there for whatever kind of driving I choose to do..I am looking at a 9" rear set up behind a t56 t-56 6 speed.. a shortened drive shaft will have to go in and I don't even have a clue what other stuff will have to be changed.. I have BBR Billet lowers and ADJ upper... but they dont have rod ends.... The tire change is the easiest and least expensive thing to do.. and I got a hell of a deal on two M&N Racemaster 325 45r17s for 255 shipped.. couldn't pass that up... the rest of the suspension and drivetrain stuff will happen the winter based on snow fall(I have a plow)
 
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#34 ·
ROUSH STAGE II said:
Yeah, yeah!!! If the new clutch holds I'll see what my other weak points are... I'm not sure when I'm going to be able to put it in silver, I sure do wish I had a lift!!!
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A lift would be so nice... keeping my eye on a couple of quick oil change shops here local... seeing if the economy will hit them and I can take their place off their worries for cheap;) Get a GOOD lift , a shop, and make a lil $$$ :cool:
 
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Discussion starter · #37 ·
the tr56 iz not good????

Can you pick out my latest power mod... between the big and the sig pics

Image
 
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
I think the scoop makes it .00001 quicker in the 1/4... and I can prove it!!!!
 
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2006greyGT
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