Took my 99GT into the shop because it feels like it is misfiring when I accelerate and the radio will cut out, I get static, in rhythm with the misfire/hesitation. I posted this a few days ago but couldn't figure it out so I took it in to the local shop. All they would tell me is that it is running rich on both cylinder banks but their diagnostic tool does not show any misfires or other codes. They said they tested the coils, the EGR, fuel system, and MAF Sensor and they all checked out ok. At this point they say they have no idea what is wrong and they need more time with the car, but at $100 plus an hour I can't afford to many more hours of them guessing. Does anyone have any ideas? Again, it's a 99GT with a JLT intake and Prof. Products plenum and throttle body for mods, that's it. I recently replaced the IAC to fix the idle issue I had and it worked fine for a couple days and then suddenly on my way home from work it would hesitate and lose power when I accelerated and the radio would cut out to static in rhythm with the hesitation. I'm stumped, the mechanics at the shop are stumped, I don't know what to do. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Mechanic cannot diagnose problem, help.
Nightmare
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Took my 99GT into the shop because it feels like it is misfiring when I accelerate and the radio will cut out, I get static, in rhythm with the misfire/hesitation. I posted this a few days ago but couldn't figure it out so I took it in to the local shop. All they would tell me is that it is running rich on both cylinder banks but their diagnostic tool does not show any misfires or other codes. They said they tested the coils, the EGR, fuel system, and MAF Sensor and they all checked out ok. At this point they say they have no idea what is wrong and they need more time with the car, but at $100 plus an hour I can't afford to many more hours of them guessing. Does anyone have any ideas? Again, it's a 99GT with a JLT intake and Prof. Products plenum and throttle body for mods, that's it. I recently replaced the IAC to fix the idle issue I had and it worked fine for a couple days and then suddenly on my way home from work it would hesitate and lose power when I accelerated and the radio would cut out to static in rhythm with the hesitation. I'm stumped, the mechanics at the shop are stumped, I don't know what to do. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Take it to ford. Much more advanced computer systems than your everyday shop on the side of the road is using. As far as I know (ive only been in dealerships not little independents so dont quote me on this) little shops/garages just have what is publicly available to them snapon modis for example. Where as at the ford dealership im at now we actually have laptops we can plug into the car which are more advanced than what snapon/matco/mac etc can offer. Atleast so it seems from what little bit ive played with them. Im just a body man so ive only used them for airbag systems and such.
Check the ignition wires in the harness. Or at least just open up the loom. It is a white wire with blue stripe. The ignition wires lead to the radio interference module (same wire that goes to coil leads directly to interference module thing). Could make sense if your problem is both radio interference, and a misfire.
I just redid my ignition wires. they were yellow and melted to the other wire. (coils have one wire for power, one to control when to fire). So those wires were melted together. which eventually would of caused a short and or fire.
so open up the loom and check the wire for a few inches (on the bank not close to harness) and if it is discolored it would lead me to say it could be your problem.
Or take it to a stealership
I just redid my ignition wires. they were yellow and melted to the other wire. (coils have one wire for power, one to control when to fire). So those wires were melted together. which eventually would of caused a short and or fire.
so open up the loom and check the wire for a few inches (on the bank not close to harness) and if it is discolored it would lead me to say it could be your problem.
Or take it to a stealership
No idea yet. Had to order a custom size belt so waiting on that still. im hoping good lol had a lot of electrical problems. How they wire the ignition wires is ridiculous. It has main power go into drivers side bank. Splice (from one spot) to 4 coils, radio interference, and then to other bank. So that tiny power ignition source is spliced to 5 places and then goes to the other bank to power 5 others.
So i increased main power wire (pre splice) by a big amount, and had it tee off. instead of the pass bank come from the splice point on the driver side. If that makes sense. Then i had a higher gauge wire (14) with a better shielding for the coils/radio from there.
had a lot of electrical problems. How they wire the ignition wires is ridiculous. It has main power go into drivers side bank. Splice (from one spot) to 4 coils, radio interference, and then to other bank. So that tiny power ignition source is spliced to 5 places and then goes to the other bank to power 5 others. So i increased main power wire (pre splice) by a big amount, and had it tee off. instead of the pass bank come from the splice point on the driver side. If that makes sense. Then i had a higher gauge wire (14) with a better shielding for the coils/radio from there.
Mechanic just called and this is what he came up with. Intake manifold is leaking coolant causing the engine to misfire. Head gasket test looked good so no blown head gasket at this point. He said it needs a new intake manifold kit, one coil for sure and 7 spark plug boots. The grand total is between $1400 and $1500 including labor Does that sound like a fair price? Any suggestions?
Does that sound like a fair price? Any suggestions?
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15,802 Posts
sounds like an ass raping... Intake is 200 bucks 35 for gaskets, and two hours worth of work...
That's what I thought so I asked him about the price and he said it was because it included the intake manifold kit ( By kit, I am assuming he means gaskets, etc.) eight plugs, one coil and seven plug boots. Plus the additional time needed to be sure it runs correctly and that there are no other issues. I don't know, I feel kind of F'ed at this point because it's not like I can just drive it somewhere else, lol.
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130 Posts
Yeah. I don't know much about parts prices but I would definitely call other mechanics even if they are nowhere near your area and find at least three other quotes for everything this mechanic told you needed to be done. I would even call a dealership to get a labor/parts quote and see how that compares because they can tend to be on the higher end of prices anyway. It may be that you do in fact have that problem just not for those amount of prices.
it seems like this guy wants to rape you. He is just coming up with numbers cuz he doesnt know whats wrong. i think that you have something wrong with the electrical system, not manifold. go to the dealer and pay $150 for diagnostic at least you will have a better idea. then you can do it yourself. look at your wiring and make sure that you dont have a stripped wire somewhere touching to the block or other wires
I agree 100% with what you’re saying; the problem is I'm already into it for $400 dollars of labor and the car is not drivable at this point. The only way I'm fixing this thing is if I do it in their parking lot. I am tempted to tow it home and do it myself because the parts should come to roughly $300 maybe $400 with shipping and tax but if you add that to the $400 I will have to give them just to get my car back I'm up to $800. Add $100 or so for the tow and I'm at $900. Not to mention the time I need to fix it and that I live in MN and it gets dark at 4:30 and it gets pretty cold, mid teens, no garage to work in, etc. and it pretty much becomes a wash.
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5,631 Posts
its still worht it i just did a pi swap to a buddies car in the back of an appt complex in northern ohio you go numb after a while and its easy from there lol...still 900 bucks you save 600 bucks
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8,136 Posts
As lefty and everyone else said do it yourself. Its simple. Sounds like hes trying to rape you. If im right you mentioned $100+ labor, rates vary per location but generally dealerships wont even charge over 100. If you break it all down and even consider that parts are 500 which would be way over the top hes still charging you 10hrs labor. Im sure book time on doing an upper intake manifold isnt even 6.
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