Modded Mustang Forums banner
321 - 340 of 7,789 Posts
Thanks Emay, Ill have to try that when not driving ;) And it was indeed shot through a tinted front windshield, what shutter speed do you suggest when shooting rolling shots to capture wheelspin w/ no blur on anything else?
 
This is a picture my stepson took of a building in western NY. Sorry for the quality, it was taken with a camera phone.

Image



God Bless all you guys in the military. :usa
 
Took these last night when leaving work. They came out better than expected considering the sun was almost completely below the horizon. The first one is a little soft but the last two came out pretty good.

Image


Image


Image
 
You landed the tail end of the golden hour of photography there Cool. Nice work..

The first is a touch soft, but not bad considering the location is working against your car color being they are light neutrals.

Just noticed your tint strip on the windshield, I had to do the same thing. Can't stand how bright it was without it.
 
You landed the tail end of the golden hour of photography there Cool. Nice work..

The first is a touch soft, but not bad considering the location is working against your car color being they are light neutrals.

Just noticed your tint strip on the windshield, I had to do the same thing. Can't stand how bright it was without it.
Erin,

What would be the best background color to shoot against considering the car's color?

When it's that late in the day should I leave the ISO setting on auto or should I change it to a specific # manually?

As for the strip...it is nice. :yes

It was already that way when I bought the car. I had planned on taking it off and going with a shorter length (it's around 12" +), but after getting used to it I couldn't live without it.
 
I hear you on that, mines only 6" but it's two layers of limo, so it's black.

In order to avoid noise in your dusk shots you want to shoot at the lowest possible iso you can. If you have enough light to shoot the shot with a fast enough shutter to not have any camera shake (cause that's what humans do), at iso 100 great. I think you probably would have had to bump to at least 200, if not 400 to get a shutter up over 125. In that first one. I didn't look at the exif data.

I have to shoot at 125 or faster hand held because I have a natural shake. I've shot with guys that are like stone, can shoot at 1/25th of a second hand held and get tack sharp images. I'm jealous, but they do all sorts of things to be able to do so. Lean on a wall, prop their arms on something stationary, take deep breaths and then hold just prior to actuating the shutter.

You car color will pop better in extreme contrasting colors. Black, Bright white, Deep burgandy's. Remember because your car is lighter and a midtone grayscal sort of color, in order to define it's lines it needs that contrast. If you put the car in front of a black wall, the edge lines of the car automatically get popped because of reflection.

If you want to understand that more, try shooting a drinking glass in front of a white back drop, then shoot it in front of a black back drop. That's an extreme example, but opens the mind to understanding how light and color reflection can make huge differences.
 
I just pixel peeped your picture Cool, that had to of been taken at iso 800 or more and probably at an aperature between 4.5 and 6. Which means it was pretty dim. Best thing you could have done there is broke out the tripod.
OK...I was shooting with the ISO on the auto setting and wasn't sure exactly what level the camera was choosing. I really need to pick up an tripod. I am exactly like you...too much hitch when I snap the shot. I can't even seem to be completely still when I'm lining up the shot...my entire body seems to move with my heartbeat. Just looking through the menu yesterday, I couldn't find the aperature settings. I know they're there I just need to break out the manual and read it better.

How will the adjusting the aperature help when shooting in low light? Does it help the camera concentrate on the lighting in the foreground where the subject is located?

Sorry for all of the questions. I'm new to all of the photography terminology and pretty ignorant when it comes to alot of this stuff.
 
Aperature just like every other setting is a tweak for allowance of light to the sensor. The lowest Aperature number, in real photography terminology is a high aperature. It's also sometimes called having the lens wide open because the lens is opened all the way letting in as much light as it possibly can. The shutter speed, if it was set real fast, is an allowance of that light for a duration of time. Fast shutter equals short burst of light, long equals a longer burst of light. Iso would be like film speed on a film 35mm..
 
Aperature just like every other setting is a tweak for allowance of light to the sensor. The lowest Aperature number, in real photography terminology is a high aperature. It's also sometimes called having the lens wide open because the lens is opened all the way letting in as much light as it possibly can. The shutter speed, if it was set real fast, is an allowance of that light for a duration of time. Fast shutter equals short burst of light, long equals a longer burst of light. Iso would be like film speed on a film 35mm..
Thanks Erin...that is a much better description than what I was getting when I was skimming through the manual. That makes complete sense. :yes
 
321 - 340 of 7,789 Posts