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-3 is good. Think about this : When cars are lowered , the pinion angle changes it could go as much as 1 pos. so if it is 1 pos. and you race this car, when the ass end squats (lowers) the pinion angle goes even more pos., now the pinion is actually pointed upward and could this cause a little fluid starvation to the pinion ? Something to think about. I would do what you can to get that pinion back to -3. Hope this makes sense.
 
-3 is good. Think about this : When cars are lowered , the pinion angle changes it could go as much as 1 pos. so if it is 1 pos. and you race this car, when the ass end squats (lowers) the pinion angle goes even more pos., now the pinion is actually pointed upward and could this cause a little fluid starvation to the pinion ? Something to think about. I would do what you can to get that pinion back to -3. Hope this makes sense.
The problem 07StangGT is having is that he hasn't raced the new rear , at all, and it's burning through fluid.
 
I'm still reading this, but so I don't forget. The pinion angle CAN cause the pinion bearing to fail or the seal to leak. It's not likely, but possible. But, have you checked the U joints? I've seen bad ones cause damage to the diff before. I also wouldn't rule out a trans issue but I'll get back to that later.

How bad is the engine vibration?

Have you ever taken it to a DRIVETRAIN shop, like a place that ONLY does rearends and driveshafts?

How exactly do you mean the driveshaft is hard to get in?

Maybe I should just call you lol.

Now that I read it all I'm gonna think about it ad talk to some people, I'll get back to ya.
 
Discussion starter · #145 · (Edited)
The problem 07StangGT is having is that he hasn't raced the new rear , at all, and it's burning through fluid.
Thank you.

I'm still reading this, but so I don't forget. The pinion angle CAN cause the pinion bearing to fail or the seal to leak. It's not likely, but possible. But, have you checked the U joints? I've seen bad ones cause damage to the diff before. I also wouldn't rule out a trans issue but I'll get back to that later.

How bad is the engine vibration?

Have you ever taken it to a DRIVETRAIN shop, like a place that ONLY does rearends and driveshafts?

Maybe I should just call you lol.
Lets see where to start.

The pinion angle is actually at about -2 degrees, there is a little descrepency on that. But i think 2 is the right number. -1.8 to be exact.

Check the U joints, no. Will do that.

How bad is the engine vibration. I dont know how to describe how bad it is or even really how to rank how bad it is. In my opinoin its not bad. I have the tubular K member the engine sits on a 1/2 inch peice of urethane and then the k member mounts right about where your feet are. You know how thin the bottom of the car is. You feel it.

No have not been to a drivetrain specialist yet.


FRPP told me to ship the rear back to them. They are going to inspect it and try to determain what is the problem, or cuase of the problem. So tomorrow it comes out. I think im going to take the transmission out as well and check it out.
 
Rich, I talked it over with a couple guys and thought about it a bit. I thought about a couple more things.

Have you ever checked the carrier bearing? If it is loose, the driveshaft can flop around under speed.

Another thing, if the UCA bushing is worn out the pinion angle may change significantly under load. But you'd probably hear that.

Despite a 2 piece driveshaft, engine or trans issues can still hurt the rear because vibration will carry through the shaft.

Take your axle vent off and see if you can blow through it.


I'm still thinking about it and reading some stuff, etc. Trying my damndest to get a possible answer for you. There are so many things that it could be, the whole thing needs to be checked piece by piece. I wish I had the car in front of me, between me and the other guy at work we'd find something. Seems like just noone wants to put the time into it that it may take to figure this bitch out.
 
Discussion starter · #148 · (Edited)
Rich, I talked it over with a couple guys and thought about it a bit. I thought about a couple more things.

Have you ever checked the carrier bearing? If it is loose, the driveshaft can flop around under speed.

Another thing, if the UCA bushing is worn out the pinion angle may change significantly under load. But you'd probably hear that.

Despite a 2 piece driveshaft, engine or trans issues can still hurt the rear because vibration will carry through the shaft.

Take your axle vent off and see if you can blow through it.


I'm still thinking about it and reading some stuff, etc. Trying my damndest to get a possible answer for you. There are so many things that it could be, the whole thing needs to be checked piece by piece. I wish I had the car in front of me, between me and the other guy at work we'd find something. Seems like just noone wants to put the time into it that it may take to figure this bitch out.
Appreciate your help.

I have taken the axle vent off a long time ago to see if i could blow through it. It seemed to work, that coupled with the fact that fluid is clearly coming out of it made me think it works. With that said, i still dont trust that it properly vents the axle. Maybe it doesnt let air out until the pressure is so built up that fluid is forcing itself out.


The carrier bearing would be of concern but I had the spydershaft on, then one two peice, and now this two peice. so its three different driveshafts. But ryan did put some metal tape on the carrier bearing and i drove the car to see if it was flopping around. Doesnt seem to be.

Im with you on the vibration issue.

My plan now, remove the rear and ship it to FRPP so they can inspect it.

Get a new vent. Its a cheap peice.

Remove trans and have it looked at. The "run out" checked as ken says, he always wants the run out checked on something. I dont even know what run out is and he says it twice a week a least. Must be a welders term. Anyway going to do that.

Im still, on the face with the tubular K member. I love it. But it is when the problems started thats just the facts. I dont think it is directly the K member but I'm thinking the vibrations, harmonics, they cant be helping anything. Im thinking about putting the stock K member and stock motor mounts on the car. I have been feeling vibrations in the car since the day the prothane motor mounts were put on a year and a half ago. Its time to get rid of that ****. somedays the car is smooth as butter, its unreal how smooth it is considering all the mods. and some days, its just not. The stock motor mounts will sqaush all of that.

Then i can see what FRPP says.

If all that doesnt do it. then its new car time. The 2010 gt500 is looking might freaking sweet. have you seen inside those things?

JPC dynoed one, stock 500 at the wheels. Tight. SS what?
 
If all that doesnt do it. then its new car time. The 2010 gt500 is looking might freaking sweet. :yeshave you seen inside those things?:yes



Indeed, and they FINALLY produced them w/ the aluminum block... NICE!:yes
 
run out is a machinest term actually, to check if somthing is bent on a shaft or a piece of metal. if you have bad berings in the gear box the input or output shafts will have a bad run out, as in they wount turn true, the will wobble.

one more time for this week.....Run out.
 
If all that doesnt do it. then its new car time. The 2010 gt500 is looking might freaking sweet. :yeshave you seen inside those things?:yes



Indeed, and they FINALLY produced them w/ the aluminum block... NICE!:yes
Chad, I looked at one of them yesterday and they are so awesome. It was Sterling Gray with no stripes. I got to sit in it, see the engine, and hear the exhaust. They let my dad start it for about 5 seconds in the showroom and the exhaust note it emitted was amazing, it had a very mean growl to it. My dad was actually thinking about trading the CS for it, but the dealer wouldn't give him a good enough deal so oh well.


I'm still negotiating with him to buy it for the price that it is right now. :D But the odds of getting it are looking very bleak. :(


The 2010's don't have the aluminum block, the 2011's will have it. Where did you hear that the 2010's did?
 
Discussion starter · #152 ·
run out is a machinest term actually, to check if somthing is bent on a shaft or a piece of metal. if you have bad berings in the gear box the input or output shafts will have a bad run out, as in they wount turn true, the will wobble.

one more time for this week.....Run out.
huh
 
The 2010's don't have the aluminum block, the 2011's will have it. Where did you hear that the 2010's did?[/QUOTE]


Really, no point in getting '10 what so ever...
 
The 2010's don't have the aluminum block, the 2011's will have it. Where did you hear that the 2010's did?

Really, no point in getting '10 what so ever...[/QUOTE]

Yep, no BS here.

I guess there's no point in getting that sterling gray, no stripes, 2010 GT500 coupe that's at our Ford dealership if there will be an aluminum block next year...... :shiftyeyes

Image
 
Discussion starter · #157 ·
The 2010's don't have the aluminum block, the 2011's will have it. Where did you hear that the 2010's did?

Really, no point in getting '10 what so ever...[/QUOTE]


Well i hope thats everyones outlook and there is a bunch of 2010s laying around cheap next spring. Ill be on it like ugly on a ape.
 
Really, no point in getting '10 what so ever...

Well i hope thats everyones outlook and there is a bunch of 2010s laying around cheap next spring. Ill be on it like ugly on a ape.[/QUOTE]



See pic above to notice awesomeness. :D

The 2011's aluminum block will weigh something like 75-80 lbs less than the 2007-2010 cast iron block, so that puts the 2011 GT500 at about 3850lbs. I've heard there may be other weight saving measures too, so hopefully the 2011 will be close to 3800lbs.
 
With 500 at the wheels stock I have little concern for 75lbs extra

I wouldnt mod the thing anyway. Just drive it. Stock with 3.55s, i may throw a cai on it thats all it needs.


Yeah that thing could use a CAI, it has a kind of small inlet tube that looks restrictive.

If you do want to upgrade it, evo performance sells some pretty sick packages as reasonable prices.

Stage 1- CAI and SCT X3, adds up to 100rwhp/85rwhp- $800.00

Stage 2- Stage 1 plus 2.6 Pulley(adds 4lbs of boost), and Auxiliary Idler Pulley, and Spark Plugs, adds up to 135rwhp/100rwtq- $1100.00

Stage 3- Stage 2 plus 4lb+ boost Harmonic Balancer and Monoblade Throttle Body, adds up to 201rwhp/215rwtq- $2400

Stage 4- Stage 3 plus American Racing Headers/Borla Catback, adds up to 231rwhp/243rwtq- $4600

:eek:
 
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