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First test drive... kinda wimpy...

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I went and looked at another 1996 v6 convertible automatic, this one with only 83k on it. Well, it wasn't much more responsive than mine. Mine does have keyless entry and a power top, and the one I looked at today didn't. But this one was clean - really clean. Like put-me-to-shame clean. Like, disassembly time and buy stock in Bounty and degreaser, time. Well, at least I know what one is supposed to look like. And it was listed for $5800.
I went and bought a compression checker...
 
#22 ·
compared to a 300zxtt the v6 will feel slow, a few mods though and it will open her up a bit
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Did you do any head work? If so, are you sure the rockers are set and operating the valves correctly? And with 160K miles, a professional injector inspect, clean, and flow check might be a good idea. Also check your coil pack. And double check for vac leaks
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Hmmm I did torque the rockers to spec, or close as I could get them, do they make a good torque wrench that only goes to 7 ft/lbs?!? I have a click-type that goes from 30 to 250, and a needle-type that starts at 0 but I don't trust it as much. so anyway I did not have the heads checked, and the exhaust manifold was a pain to get put on with the slim clearance, I am not 100% positive I got it bolted on tight and forget getting a torque wrench down there. I may pull the motor to clean underneath there, if it looks like I need to do more stuff. It was so tough to get to some of that stuff that it might have been easier to do it out of the engine. any thoughts on that? Is there a trick to getting at the exhaust header on the passenger side?

I did look at the injectors with skepticism, but figured I'd just put it all together and see what happened. To be honest, as it is right now it's running better than my honda was.

130 hp huh? damn. Maybe this just needs to be a cruise around town car for some old lady, and just clean it up real nice and sell it and get a GT or a cobra or something.
 
#24 ·
tomzac said:
mustang1072 said:
dont call him an ass tomzac he is right unfortunately... ford came out with a v6 so u can afford it, look good, and get better gas mileage... in my opinion
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It's not what was said, it's how it was said. The little LMO figure at the slow v6; is neither objective, nor constructive to resolve a problem.
Click to expand...
+1
 
#25 ·
RichM said:
Did you do any head work? If so, are you sure the rockers are set and operating the valves correctly? And with 160K miles, a professional injector inspect, clean, and flow check might be a good idea. Also check your coil pack. And double check for vac leaks
Click to expand...
Hmmm I did torque the rockers to spec, or close as I could get them, do they make a good torque wrench that only goes to 7 ft/lbs?!? I have a click-type that goes from 30 to 250, and a needle-type that starts at 0 but I don't trust it as much. so anyway I did not have the heads checked, and the exhaust manifold was a pain to get put on with the slim clearance, I am not 100% positive I got it bolted on tight and forget getting a torque wrench down there. I may pull the motor to clean underneath there, if it looks like I need to do more stuff. It was so tough to get to some of that stuff that it might have been easier to do it out of the engine. any thoughts on that? Is there a trick to getting at the exhaust header on the passenger side?

I did look at the injectors with skepticism, but figured I'd just put it all together and see what happened. To be honest, as it is right now it's running better than my honda was.

130 hp huh? damn. Maybe this just needs to be a cruise around town car for some old lady, and just clean it up real nice and sell it and get a GT or a cobra or something.
Click to expand...
u remembered to move each cylinder to TDC before torquing the rocker arms for that cylinder right?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
u remembered to move each cylinder to TDC before torquing the rocker arms for that cylinder right?
Click to expand...
uh... was that in the manual? (ducking and looking around...) :)

well the guy I got it from said something about leaving the valve covers off till I let it run for a few minutes, then tightening them up. But I figured if there were torque specs then it should be ok. Hmmm. It makes sense that could be it, and IIRC, torquing #5 valves compressed the valve springs more than the others on the drivers side. I think my helper tightened the ones on the passenger side.

so how do you get each cylinder to TDC? I should clarify - how do you turn the engine that slowly and precisely? Is there a nut on the crankshaft you can turn with a breaker bar and socket, and you loosen the plugs to so it doesn't have any compression? That would be my guess, but I'm not looking at it right now.

guess I'm taking the plenum off again... yay.
 
#27 ·
RichM said:
u remembered to move each cylinder to TDC before torquing the rocker arms for that cylinder right?
Click to expand...
uh... was that in the manual? (ducking and looking around...) :)

well the guy I got it from said something about leaving the valve covers off till I let it run for a few minutes, then tightening them up. But I figured if there were torque specs then it should be ok. Hmmm. It makes sense that could be it, and IIRC, torquing #5 valves compressed the valve springs more than the others on the drivers side. I think my helper tightened the ones on the passenger side.

so how do you get each cylinder to TDC? I should clarify - how do you turn the engine that slowly and precisely? Is there a nut on the crankshaft you can turn with a breaker bar and socket, and you loosen the plugs to so it doesn't have any compression? That would be my guess, but I'm not looking at it right now. guess I'm taking the plenum off again... yay.
Click to expand...
um no dude dontrun it before torquing them u need to move the crank with a breaker bar and a socket and put the piston in top dead center and then torque the rocker arms for the valves on the cylinder to spec if u don't do this u can dammage your valve system. you move it to TDC so the piston is int its top most point of the compression stroke there for both the valves are in there most relaxed position (both completely closed) failing to do this can ruin alot of this in the valve system.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
well hopefully they are not too bad, I'll do this. Thanks! They were all tightened down, I did not run with them loose. Hopefully no damage done. This might be an easy fix (well, taking all the crp off the top of the engine is not that easy, but it's all just labor, and I don't charge myself for that)
 
#29 ·
wow i just ready my above post and i can hardly read it because of the lack of spelling sorry about that dude i just hope u understood what i said and rnt like beating the car with a bat cuz u thought thats what i ment lol
 
#30 ·
Juggalo_X said:
you move it to TDC so the piston is int its top most point of the compression stroke there for both the valves are in there most relaxed position (both completely closed) failing to do this can ruin alot of this in the valve system.
Click to expand...
Correct me if I'm wrong. But I don't think you have to be so precise as to align TDC on each cylinder. You just have to know if you're on the base circle of the cam for int and ext. So if you turn the engine over slowly and notice the int valve closing, once it's closed, you can turn the crank another 20* to 40* and you should be on the base circle of the cam.
 
#32 ·
tomzac said:
Juggalo_X said:
you move it to TDC so the piston is int its top most point of the compression stroke there for both the valves are in there most relaxed position (both completely closed) failing to do this can ruin alot of this in the valve system.
Click to expand...
Correct me if I'm wrong. But I don't think you have to be so precise as to align TDC on each cylinder. You just have to know if you're on the base circle of the cam for int and ext. So if you turn the engine over slowly and notice the int valve closing, once it's closed, you can turn the crank another 20* to 40* and you should be on the base circle of the cam.
Click to expand...
yes your correct but ive always just put it at TDC its just the way i learned and the way i do it lol your way is correct and will work just the same too :D
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
ok so looking at the valves seems a bit easier for some of the cylinders than putting a stick through the spark plug hole and watching it top out. So if all that I need to do is watch the valve I want to tighten raise and then lower all the way (actually I mean the pushrod side of the rocker, when that goes up, the valve lowers, right? now I'm confusing myself... valve --> closed), then when it lowers, torque it. Is that right?
 
#34 ·
RichM said:
ok so looking at the valves seems a bit easier for some of the cylinders than putting a stick through the spark plug hole and watching it top out. So if all that I need to do is watch the valve I want to tighten raise and then lower all the way (actually I mean the pushrod side of the rocker, when that goes up, the valve lowers, right? now I'm confusing myself... valve --> closed), then when it lowers, torque it. Is that right?
Click to expand...
watch your push rods when the push rod is up it forces the rocker or down on the valve opening it so the spring compresses and when the rod relieves the pressure on the rocker arm the spring will move back to its relaxed position and the valve will close (there for the valve is closed and seated)
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
This was surprisingly easy :) I turned it with the alternator pulley, and didn't have to pull all the plugs, it turned quite easily.

Of course... now I have to put the covers and intake back on to run the engine to warm it up so I can test compression. I checked the injector resistances, all at a very consistent 15 ohms.

I'm going to clean up the engine compartment as best I can with some of this stuff removed, then check the exhaust manifolds etc, then put stuff back together for a compression test.
 
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