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couple head swap questions

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tfofkyle

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
all right guys, im down to the head bolts on my disassembly and ive got just a few questions about how to finish this off.

1. the dipstick tube. its got that lame mounting bracket that goes on the valve cover. it does not look like it will ever slide through the stock manifolds. is the bracket really needed? my idea would be to cut off the tab and just slide the dipstick through normally. that way i wouldnt even have to replace my dipstick at all.

2. i bought an in/lb torque wrench to do the cam caps from the local oreillys. i didnt realize when i bought it, that it only goes down to 120 in/lbs. the manual calls for 99 in/lbs if i remember correctly. im assuming i definitely cant just torque it all down to 120 in/lbs and expect it to be okay. so anyone know where i can find an in/lb torque wrench that goes down that low ?

3. would it be possible to mount the long tube headers i have now on my heads, and try to get the dipstick fed through them as i put down the head? i really dont wanna have to deal with trying to torque down all of the bolts and raising the engine up.

4. the egr is going to be deleted. if i get a tuner to disable the egr, is there any need for me to keep the electronic connections, or any of the vacuum lines that ran from the egr to other parts of the engine?

5. egr delete plate and iac restrictor. ive heard i can actually cut my own out of a pop can if im really desperate. anyone done this yet?

6. priming the bottom end. the cars been sitting for over a month now without being started. should i take any precautions when i start it up? i know im going to squirt some oil on the cylinder walls and the cams, caps, and journals are all going to get assembly lube.

7. painting the block. i wanna get rid of some of the rusty iron look under there. anyone got any suggestions on how i should go about doing this? cleaning/prep, actual paints, etc ?

any and all information is appreciated my moddedmustangs homeskilletz :cool:
 
#2 ·
i purchased my torqe wrench from grainger it has nm/flb it goes from 10 lbs-120lbs, if needed i know auto zone will rent them out and when you return it u get all your money back
i sanded my block with 120grit sandpaper, cleaned it up with laquer to get the oils off and then i primed it and painted it blue using the high temp engine enamel(bought at autozone)
you can install your headers without lifting the motor but its hard to reach the bolts to tighten them down, it can b done but its a PITA and very time consuming

if you turn your key and crank the motor(but dont let it start) just turn the key enough to crank it and that will circulate the oil throughout the motor after doing this a few times, you shouldnt have no problems.

you can cut the tab on the dipstick to slide it in, but i would recommend that u make something that will hold it in place, otherwise you could leak oil at the bottom of the dipstick where it enters the engine
 
#3 · (Edited)
Dont just turn the key to prime the oil pump.

1. +1 make sure you make a bracet after you cut it. Or you can just pull the dipstick out of the block. Pull it out b4 you take the manifolds off. but do this at your own risk. sometimes the type of headers you get make it difficult to get back in.

2. get the right torque wrench, cams are critical

3. its nearly impossible to do the headers without raising the motor. It can be done but its more difficult.

4. as far as i know you dont need to keep them. remember to plug the leftovers with a cap. dont throw the extra parts away. You may need them in the future.

5. never heard of it

6. First, dont just crank it enough to not start it when trying to prime the oil pump if it accidentally starts you could damage parts. To prime the oil pump unplug the coil packs and crank it for 15 sec one or two times and it should show oil pressure. plug up the coil packs and start it. make sure it has oil pressure b4 you start it.

7. +1 on the previous post. or pull the motor and send it to get hot tanked and blasted.

let me know if you need more in depth answers. Good luck, hope this helps ;)
 
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#4 ·
there r many ways that one can prime the pump, you can also pull the relay for the fuel pump...... then crank it. main thing is crank it, but DONT start it until its primed.




damn 97stang nice avatar..........shake it!!!! i could watch that all day.....lol
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
97stang4.6l said:
Dont just turn the key to prime the oil pump.

1. +1 make sure you make a bracet after you cut it. Or you can just pull the dipstick out of the block. Pull it out b4 you take the manifolds off. but do this at your own risk. sometimes the type of headers you get make it difficult to get back in.

2. get the right torque wrench, cams are critical

3. its nearly impossible to do the headers without raising the motor. It can be done but its more difficult.

4. as far as i know you dont need to keep them. remember to plug the leftovers with a cap. dont throw the extra parts away. You may need them in the future.

5. never heard of it

6. First, dont just crank it enough to not start it when trying to prime the oil pump if it accidentally starts you could damage parts. To prime the oil pump unplug the coil packs and crank it for 15 sec one or two times and it should show oil pressure. plug up the coil packs and start it. make sure it has oil pressure b4 you start it.

7. +1 on the previous post. or pull the motor and send it to get hot tanked and blasted.

let me know if you need more in depth answers. Good luck, hope this helps ;)
Click to expand...
so im assuming the dipstick just slides out of the block? ive heard they break pretty easily when you tug on them and i really dont wanna have to deal with that. but if it slides out guess ill give it a try.

about the headers. im talking, headers already torqued down on the heads. then dropping both in together, either trying to feed through the dipstick or putting the new one in afterwards and disconnecting the steering shaft and refitting it as needed. (or bending one of the primaries if thats a better option)

anyway - im off to have the heads resurfaced. dont wanna have any problems with that when im done.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
just got back from the shop. the heads had been belt sanded from the last shop and when he put the level on them, you could hear it clank against the head surface as he rocked it back and forth :eek: they ended up being about .005 off. i wouldve had a blown head gasket in no time. $60 to machine them. i am so glad i took them out to get checked. unfortunately the shop doesnt do any porting, so im still looking for someone that can do that for me in the southeastern michigan area for not so much $$$. anyone ?
 
#8 ·
im probably going to have that done, just to check to make sure.

cuz next time anything below the valve covers come off..the whole motor's coming out. for a .30 over and new rods and pistons. then back upwards to the same as your wishlist..i wanna eventually end up with a p1sc ontop this thing!
 
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#9 ·
tfofkyle said:
so im assuming the dipstick just slides out of the block? ive heard they break pretty easily when you tug on them and i really dont wanna have to deal with that. but if it slides out guess ill give it a try.

That they are.... broke mine along with EGR Pressure Censor during my engine removal. The dip stick tube is about a $20 fix.
Click to expand...
 
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#10 ·
Last year when we put my motor back in and tightened up the mounts, i realized I forgot to put the dipstick back in....FML. Luckily the tranny wasn't put back in yet :)
 
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#11 ·
tfofkyle said:
just got back from the shop. the heads had been belt sanded from the last shop and when he put the level on them, you could hear it clank against the head surface as he rocked it back and forth :eek: they ended up being about .005 off. i wouldve had a blown head gasket in no time. $60 to machine them. i am so glad i took them out to get checked. unfortunately the shop doesnt do any porting, so im still looking for someone that can do that for me in the southeastern michigan area for not so much $$$. anyone ?
Click to expand...
Do you know who BOOMER is? Hes a member on here, not sure how long its been since he posted. But he is in Michigan and highly recommended.
 
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tfofkyle
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