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Spoiler delete fail

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slikirish

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok so it wasn't fail on my end. I went and got the nylon plugs, color matched duplicolor, clear silicone, ect. Painted the plugs and they looked pretty good. Went outside and pulled the spoiler off and this is what i find. WTF?

Image


Image


The bottom hole in the second pic also looks a little elongated. I'm not sure what to make of this but I'm not happy.
Needless to say the spoiler went back on.
 
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#2 ·
mine had scuff marks from my spoiler when i took it off so i painted it black and put black cobras on my DARK green stang looks good
 
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#3 ·
Its normal....Especially if its been repainted. I see/used to see this **** day to day on various "lower end" cars..not sure if it has to do with the adhesive, paint, or paint process used. Havent seem to notice it much with the bwm's though :dunno.
 
#4 ·
At least you could cover that back up. I had stupid body side moldings on my car and removing them removed parts of the paint. Touched it up for now but now my doors need repainted :(
 
#7 ·
Better than finding out its a bondo buggy/mud buggy though so no worries. Just leave the damn spoiler on anyways. Removing it wont make you any faster, and the average person you see on the street wont even notice the difference.
 
#9 ·
^ :lmao youve gotta be shitting me right?

The places where the paint peeled up will feather out just fine. Needs nothing more than feathered out, and some primer. As for the holes slapping some "bondo" in them wont do jack **** but crack out and/or leave you rings where the holes were not long down the road.
 
#11 ·
Absolutely not.

1. there is no backing to the holes
2. you wont get filler flush with something else thats flush and flexible....even if there was a backing...given the decklid flexes if you spread your filler, block it, then press on the decklid itll crack out right around the hole
 
#13 · (Edited)
Good for him...A degree in what? Teaching hs shop class? Sounds like a joke. School for this business = a joke only upside to going to one of the big name schools which I wont mention is getting I-CAR certifications out the ass (i-car platnium requires 10 points and 2 points a year after that iirc)...youll come outta school with 40+ icar points at least vs paying $400+ per I-CAR class if you were in a shop, or the shop footing that bill.....but once again that dont mean jack **** of if you dont know what youre doing.


There is a way to fill the holes but "filling them with bondo" is far from the process of doing so.
 
#14 ·
yeah your teacher with a degree is dumb because you cant just throw bodo in that big ass hole and hope it stays. It will flex and the trunk will be slammed. There will be shrinkage and there will be rings if nothing else!! Your teacher with a degree is teaching more people his wrong ****. I have seen these "school taught bodymen" and they dont know ****! My dad has had about 5 of the "certificate having/degree having" bodymen and they were they biggest waste of time.
 
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#15 ·
my biggest advice to you would be take the money you are paying for a school and actually pay a REAL bodyman at a shop to have him let you work beside him and learn real life stuff in a real life body shop.
 
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#17 ·
oh... well then if you have a teacher that is teaching body work in high school then trust me... Dont take anything he says serious! lol. Tell him to call me or ajm if he is really interested in fixing anything.
 
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#18 · (Edited)
Thats exactly your problem....As said above "A degree in what? Teaching hs shop class? Sounds like a joke." This guy prolly hasnt even stepped foot in a hack shop for the matter of a few weeks more less a real production shop.

Nothing against the guy...but a simple hs shop class teacher shouldnt be telling you to fill through and through holes with filler. More less flush holes on flexible material. Unless you consider high spots to make it wont show the crack rings straight? Let me guess...he tells you to hit it with 1500 before filler and 3000 trizact on an interface pad before putty right?
 
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