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Honestly, I probably wouldn't go shorter than 3:55's with a turbo set up. If it was me, I would run 4:10's on a twin screw and 3:73's on a centrie setup.

Cause the way I picture it, as soon as you're making full boost(turbo), it's gonna be time to shift.
I'd recommend the other way around.

373's twin screw and 410's centri. The twins put down power a lot sooner than the centri's so you don't need as steep as a gear to get them in the power range.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Then you don't understand how a turbo works.
Refresh your memory on how a turbo works :eek: :
(an outtake on the most relative point to this argument)
"The real point I am trying to make is that the exhaust turbine will not generate enough power to turn the air compressor fast enough for it to work properly unless the engine is feeding the exhaust turbine a lot of hot expanding exhaust gas, a condition that can only be created when the engine is under a load. There is where the selection of transmission gear ratios and the ring and pinion ratio play a critical part. The fact that the engine must be under a load is the reason why, no matter how high you rev a turbo charged engine with no load on it, you will not see the boost gauge move."

So back on topic, the real answers needed here are just from people with our cars, that have turbo setups with gearing.

Cause the way I picture it, as soon as you're making full boost(turbo), it's gonna be time to shift.
You won't have to worry about that, your motor doesn't even get into the height of its powerband until around 3,500RPM if you're still naturally aspirated, which your engine will be practically until you reach good boost levels. 3,000 RPM is where just about every turbo setup i've seen on the net reaches full boost anyhow.
 
To me this sounds ridiculous, making it harder for the motor to turn the wheels helps it accelerate? Or this 'load' on the motor makes the turbo work more efficiently? A turbo is a turbo, you blow air through a fan, and the fan creates air flow in another direction.

Someone putting their hands around my throat while i whistle isn't really helpful. I stand by the fact that more gear is better in both helping the motor rev with less resistance; creating more exhaust flow sooner, and overall spinning the tires quicker.
My understanding of spooling/building PSI (making the most use out of your turbo):
If the rear gears make it easier for the motor to power through its RPM range (less resistance), it should benefit a turbo setup as well; the turbo will be spooled sooner as its reached maximum boost thus putting out maximum torque and horsepower sooner.

Now, here is my theory:
The quick gears will help the motor get through the low RPM's quicker, and achieve its full potential sooner, as well as eliminate ALOT of the feeling that comes with turbo lag (slow acceleration while the turbo trying to fill itself up), thusly creating a great acceleration curve.

["The real point I am trying to make is that the exhaust turbine will not generate enough power to turn the air compressor fast enough for it to work properly unless the engine is feeding the exhaust turbine a lot of hot expanding exhaust gas, a condition that can only be created when the engine is under a load..


You're contradicting yourself.
 
Honestly, I probably wouldn't go shorter than 3:55's with a turbo set up. If it was me, I would run 4:10's on a twin screw and 3:73's on a centrie setup.

Cause the way I picture it, as soon as you're making full boost(turbo), it's gonna be time to shift.
Do you even have own a car yet? Yet alone a mustang or a mustang with forced induction? Just sayin.
 
You won't have to worry about that, your motor doesn't even get into the height of its powerband until around 3,500RPM if you're still naturally aspirated, which your engine will be practically until you reach good boost levels. 3,000 RPM is where just about every turbo setup i've seen on the net reaches full boost anyhow.

Only while under full load. You can be bouncing off the rev limiter and only create a few pounds of boost when just in nuetral or with the clutch in on a five speed car. You should do some reading. I reccomend reading Engine Managment: Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish and Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. If you really want to learn and know what your talking about the these two books will help you immensely when it comes to forced induction. Engine Managment Advanced Tuning is more of a EFI tuning book, but has great info on forced induction. While Maximum Boost can and will awnser just about every question you could ever have about how turbo's and superchargers work. Also, on how to create a successful forced induced combo. You can get both books for under $30 combined.

Edit: To the O.P. You do know what load is right? Load is how much or how hard your engine is working to move the mass of your car. So if you foot is in the clutch and/or your in nuetral all the motor has to move is the accessoires and the flywheel. When your in gear the motor has to move the entire weight of your car and then some. Load increases as speed increases as well for multiple reasons (mainly the mass of your car and wind/air resistance) which in turn increases cylinder pressure. It takes lots of cylinder pressure to create boost. Therefore boost is created for the most part, when load is present.
 
Car originally had a Procharger running about 9 lbs boost, with 4:10 gears. Then when I built up engine/fuel/transmission etc...went 67mm turbo and about 16 lbs boost. Kept the 4:10 gears. Car was being launched with a full manual valve body 4r70w + t-brake. 05mustang_kb_charged recently bought that transmission from me.

Then upgraded to a 76mm single and upgraded fuel etc to match. Boost level now 22 lbs. As car went faster and faster, had to put on bigger and bigger diameter tires to avoid car running out of gear in the 1/4. Finally as car hit 10.0 and 136mph, had massive 29+ inch Hoosiers.

New build close to completion. Same turbo, rebuilt 302 motor, gone to return style fuel cell, 2 speed powerglide, many other major mods and lost 300+ lbs. Also gone to 3:50 gears. Looking for 25-27 lbs boost.

Vid of car at 22 lbs boost and 4:10 gears, up against a 100% stock acura tl

video :: acura vs stang video by forensicsteve - Photobucket
 
so i rest my case you have to understand the blower/turbos work off of the demand of the eng. if you have low gears your eng peaks to fast so you loose efficencie the less gear the longer your engine is demanding power/boost but still within reason and yes 2.31 gears would be good if you made the power to pull it but 3.31 is usualy the lowest that seems to work.if you want to get rid of lag install a 2 step you will launch at half boost typicaly and yes i know a little about this i have a 2005 with a turbo,a 65 comet with a b&m blower a 2002 gt with a prochager and also a 1933 coupe with a 4.6 b headed motor with a 871 bds on it and i have had several fox bodys through the years with blowers and i have tryed several differant set ups ;):yes
 
so i rest my case you have to understand the blower/turbos work off of the demand of the eng. if you have low gears your eng peaks to fast so you loose efficencie the less gear the longer your engine is demanding power/boost but still within reason and yes 2.31 gears would be good if you made the power to pull it but 3.31 is usualy the lowest that seems to work.if you want to get rid of lag install a 2 step you will launch at half boost typicaly and yes i know a little about this i have a 2005 with a turbo,a 65 comet with a b&m blower a 2002 gt with a prochager and also a 1933 coupe with a 4.6 b headed motor with a 871 bds on it and i have had several fox bodys through the years with blowers and i have tryed several differant set ups ;):yes
Please humor us with a little punctuation next time. ;) :yes
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Please humor us with a little punctuation next time. ;) :yes
Look kid, either post with some relevance (ie: have experience with a turbo+gear setup) or scram.
 
Look kid, either post with some relevance (ie: have experience with a turbo+gear setup) or scram.
Kid, lol. This coming from the 23 year old. I posted multiple replies with relevance to the topic at hand, but apparently you are not intelligent enough to garner any insight from them. You have contradicted yourself more than once and have been the only one in the thread to not offer any semblance of "relevance". So why don't you take your own advice and go look up a couple of books that were offered earlier so you can actually carry on an a worthwhile discussion. :rolleyes:
 
Do you even have own a car yet? Yet alone a mustang or a mustang with forced induction? Just sayin.
I own 3 cars actually(4 if you count my 99 vic with blown motor), and am in the process of trying to get my Mustang. Just gotta finish up school. I have been around enough forced induction Mustangs and cars(used to own one), and have spoken to enough shops and knowledgeable owners of forced induction Mustangs to know what I would and wouldn't do to my car.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Kid, lol. This coming from the 23 year old. I posted multiple replies with relevance to the topic at hand, blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blahblah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah
I asked for input from people with the setups, you're contradicting yourself thinking anything you have to say is relevant. Game, set and match, kiddo.
 
I asked for input from people with the setups, you're contradicting yourself thinking anything you have to say is relevant. Game, set and match, kiddo.
Congratulations, that reply just further confirmed your lack of intelligence. The only thing that makes your reply even some what humorous, is the fact you were so smug about what you thought was a witty comeback. If it makes you feel any better though, my 8 yr old daughter thought it was funny. So at least you have that going for you; you can always hold some intrigue when carrying on a conversation with those a third your age. :rolleyes:
 
interesting. i always thought turbos were powered off of exhaust and not engine load. but i still have a lot to learn. guess i need to go read up. i was gonna ask a stupid question but i just got the image of a mountain bike in my head. same rpm, less load on lower gear. i was thinkin "doesnt the engine work under same amount of load at the same rpm, no matter the gearing?"

but tis ok, i got it now :D ....now to find out how it goes off load instead of exhaust since my understanding is apparently utterly wrong...
 
interesting. i always thought turbos were powered off of exhaust and not engine load. but i still have a lot to learn. guess i need to go read up. i was gonna ask a stupid question but i just got the image of a mountain bike in my head. same rpm, less load on lower gear. i was thinkin "doesnt the engine work under same amount of load at the same rpm, no matter the gearing?"

but tis ok, i got it now :D ....now to find out how it goes off load instead of exhaust since my understanding is apparently utterly wrong...
Your right that turbo's are spun by the exhaust. Exhaust flow is greatest when cylinder pressure is highest. Cylinder pressure is highest when your vehicle is under load. "Load" doesn't spin the turbo.
 
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