In a Mach one. Help!
I'm not sure what to do for internals/compression. With the right rotating assembly, what can this block hold?? And I would like a turbo. What brand do you reccomend? And what boost levels will get me there.
he already knew his internals would not hold it. He was looking at options for purchasing a rotating assembly.Just don't say anything else. You just can't come in here and say something can be done without knowing the results and consequences just because you googled it and found a couple of cases. The OP asked about options on a MACH1 block, not a full build, bored out cylinders, stoked out block - can you "BUILD" a high compression+F/I motor? Of course, but there is so much more involved in it and it does not work well on the 4.6 mod motor without pretty much changing to a bigger block, period.
For max hp, sure race gas will make more. But so will a 8.5:1 compression engine would make more hp on race gas as well.Its been proven that high compression and boost go together... you just need very nice parts.
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Exactly. high compression and high boost make great numbers, but will require race gas for sure. For max power on pump gas you want low compression and high boost. You will loose off boost performance and mpg, but who cares!
Loose mpg and performance out of boost? Are you crazy? A high compression engine is more efficient, leading to more performance and mpg...
import peeps have been turboing 10:1 engines for a while too....
I said that for LOW compressionLoose mpg and performance out of boost? Are you crazy? A high compression engine is more efficient, leading to more performance and mpg...
Now you're thinkingI might want to throw a whipple on it instead...I don't know yet.
mach 1's have iron NVH blocks...Now you're thinking
keep the Mach 1 aluminum WAP block. grab a forged cobra crank and some manley rods like the 03 cobra's have and some good forged pistons with right around 9:1 is how i would build a Mach 1 IF i had one.
For max hp, sure race gas will make more. But so will a 8.5:1 compression engine would make more hp on race gas as well.
Loose mpg and performance out of boost? Are you crazy? A high compression engine is more efficient, leading to more performance and mpg...
import peeps have been turboing 10:1 engines for a while too....
Not really crazy loosing hp on boost.
You look at it this way the only time you really get good gas mileage on boost is when its a small or a small then big sequential turbo setup designed to aid the engine in getting air for the sole purpose of efficiency.
I know god damn well when my boost kicks in my mpg's drop quite a bit.
Now not to say they drop as much as a blown motor because it doesent.
And a lot of those import "peeps" are ****ing dipshits and blow their motor in a few months.
I don't know what your talking about saying people recommend hc motors for turbo applications.It creates far too much heat and the internals cannot withstand the heat and the intense pressure.
:welcome
AND, on top of that, I bet they aren't all that fasthaha i couldnt agree more about the import guys. most of them are a bunch of tards. my one buddy is real stuck on honda's 1.6 SOHC VTEC's. he builds them with stock CR and then pushes like 24+ psi through it and they only last a year. he built 3 so far and he openly tells people it will be fast for a year then it will break.
Very good adviceThere was a brand new production iron 5.4 block on ebay for 350$
You could have the Mach and whatever block you want on the side to build while you drive the mach. No down time
THANK YOUi had 8.5-1 compression pistons with .20 overbore, stock heads and on 15psi with a v2sc made 460 with bad tune. my tuner said he'd like to see at least 9.0-1 compression at least. flat top pistons do just fine with boost and a tuner that knows whats their doing.
You're right that a lot of builders are going to a low 10 CR, but in order for it to be safe the tune has to be spot on. It's all in the tune. There's more room for error with a lower CR.THANK YOU
lol
I could have sworn they had iron blocks.You're right that a lot of builders are going to a low 10 CR, but in order for it to be safe the tune has to be spot on. It's all in the tune. There's more room for error with a lower CR.
And the Mach has an aluminum block, not iron.