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1969 289 h2o

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#81 ·
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Discussion starter · #83 ·
Intermission

Well that is the end of Act I - The Top End, so grab another cold one, update your FaceSpace profile or tweat Ashton Cucher do whacha gotta do, we will be starting on Act II The Bottom End next...
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
My BIG 25 Inch

meanwhile behind the facade of this innocent looking suburban garage...

I am still busting my knuckles trying to turn the damn engine over. Well the heads are off so I doubt it's a compression problem, LOL.

I picked up the biggest breaker bar - 25 inches at Harbor Freight and some impact wrench style 1/2 inch six point SAE standard american black thingabopper sockets. That way if I ever loose them in the snow they will stand out!

Used the 15/16 (I could see Ford now, hey let's use a 1 inch bolt on the crank pulley, ONE inch, are you crazy, no need, a 15/16 will do just fine!) and when I turned it to the left it started unscrewing the bolt (instead of turning the engine over) when I went the other way (NOTHING HAPPENED) but I could feel if I went any further I would snap the bolt

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Discussion starter · #86 ·
Draining The Water [ahem] Oil...

So in order to drain the water out of your Mustang, you just undo the big drain plug bolt in the oil pan under the car, RIGHT ?

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The water was so clear I could drink it.
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Man I should have really paid more attention in chemistry class, cause oil floats on water even without Exxon catastrophes.
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#89 ·
Man....Hello new bearings :D
 
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Discussion starter · #90 ·
Handlebars come off...

with the milk shake cocktail drained it was time to remove the oil pan, in order to do that I had to remove the cross member or as I like to call it 'handlebars' held in by two large bolts, I don't know why I always imagined the cross member goes under the transmission, go figure

with that out of the way I was 20 bolts away from my goal, note 4 were bigger (1/2 inch) than the other 16 (3/8 inch maybe I forget)

after tapping the pan gently with a rubber mallet to get it loose, notice how I am gently wedging a pry bar between the oil pan and the engine block through the crusty old cork gasket, pretty cool huh?

Not, I wouldn't have to do that if I didn't forget the last bolt, hey, it was covered with 40 years of road dirt and grime OK! After I removed it the pan nearly fell on my head.

You like the Oil Pan Rosary?

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Discussion starter · #91 ·
Self Proclaimed Certified Two Bolt Master Mechanic - SPCTBMM

I don't know about you guys, but I judge repairs by how many bolts I gots to remove in order to get the job done. The more bolts the more difficult the job. Having said that I consider myself a Two Bolt Mechanic. Allow me to give you an example and see where you fit in on the SPCTBMM Scale:

Battery Replacement - two terminals two bolts, badabing badaboom

Starter - two bolts hold it to the bell housing, done

Alternator - two bolts, one short one, one long one, LOL, but still two bolts

Thermostat - two little bolts (cut the hose with a saws all, I'm kidding use a box cutter, jk, then to replace the hose... guess what... two bolts!)

Brakes - What? No way, you have to take the wheels off and that's 4 or 5 bolts right there just to get to the calipers man! Those are lug nuts, so we get by on a technicality. LOL

Belt Replacement - see Alternator LOL, LOL, LOL

So I'm a bit perplexed I just removed the oil pan, that's 20 bolts man, 20 bolts! Does that make me the Michael Jordan of automotive repair? I mean the oil is the life blood of the engine, you don't think the oil pan plays a huge role in the scope of things, than I suggest you remove the pan and go take your classic for a spin, jk, LOL.

I mean I removed the cylinder heads and those only had 10 bolts each. And something tells me if I removed only one head and modified the intake in some crazy fashion I could get a V8 to run on just 4 cylinders (I know some of you are Googling that now, add "Deep South" to your search for quicker results - I kid, I kid). So that proves the Oil Pan is the most important piece on the car, don't believe me, name another single component held on by more than TWENTY BOLTS, 20, XX (for the Romans out there) !!!
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Show Us Your Bits !!!

Blown284 said:
Man....Hello new bearings :D
Click to expand...
Man the Crankshaft looks fantastic! And I am not pulling it, never done it, it's way out of my league. Yes I could remove it but I don't even wanna think about putting in new bearings, plus it would need machining and the whole 9 yards.

The Oil Pump looks like someone used it to stir a coffee milk shake with it! LOL I will try and clean it up the best I can, and I may need some serious hand holding if and when I decide to replace it, as I have never replaced an oil pump before.

Check out the timing chain, it looks great. I hope I don't have to mess with it either, because again, I never replaced a timing chain before.

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I can't believe how clear these pictures came out, my camera is sh!t in the dark and close up conditions.
 
#93 ·
Really those things aren't too bad. Its like swapping carbs, you check to make sure you got all the pieces (and in order/there proper place too), you check with how the old part is set up, you get your new part on and get everything lined up and in place, then you bolt stuff down.

Ok so MAYBE its a bit more technical and complex than that but I think you can handle it.
 
Discussion starter · #94 ·
Countryboy_99 said:
Really those things aren't too bad. Its like swapping carbs,...
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Whoa, swappin carbs is a huge deal! First of all seldom do you swap a 2 barrel Motorcraft for a 2 barrel Motorcraft. Usually what you're doing is swappin' an Autolite 2 barrel for a Holly 4 barrel. So what does that entail, well gots to remove the old 2 barrel intake manifold, 8 bolts, than put in 4 studs to hold the intake gaskets in place so you don't half @ss it when you lower the new 4 barrel intake down, then torque down the new intake, hook up the vacuum lines, then tighten the 8 bolts, first pass about 16 foot pounds in a special torque sequence, then second pass up to 25 foot pounds also in sequence... then after the engine runs and warms up check them all again

Ok, put the new carb on, don't forget the gasket, spacer, gasket sandwich, then 4 bolts, hook up the linkage more bolts, hook up the fuel line, hook up the vacuum advance, hook up other vacuum lines, set the choke, set the idle screw, set the fuel mixture screw, run it, tune it, run it again, drive it, tune it, done, hardly an easy job if you want the car to run right

I know what you were trying to say to boost my confidence, I think you just used the wrong example, LOL, I didn't mean to be a jerk I just happen to be a realist when it comes to cars (it's wierd for me to say that but I am just so unattached to this stuff I can actually think straight, other stuff I get too caught up in and I romanticise too much, but not with cars, it's kind of refreshing) not sure if anyone reading this can relate, cool if you can
 
#95 ·
Man, IMHO you got some balls if you're gonna run that motor without having any machine work done or even having the internals and block tanked and magged and inspected, especially after water was in there for god knows how long...You could be doing all this work for nothing.
 
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Discussion starter · #96 ·
How Ironic

So I cleaned up the sludge in the oil pan before I called it quits for the day. The oil pan looked pretty good aside from a bit of rust around the drain plug area about the size of a credit card. Question is when I clean it up with a wire wheel do I coat it with something or leave it raw? If I coat it what do you suggest I use fellas?

Don't you think it's a bit ironic that the inside of my oil pan rusted, yet it had oil in it? Just goes to show you the power of water, and what it can do to your engine.

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Discussion starter · #97 ·
Blown284 said:
Man, IMHO you got some balls if you're gonna run that motor without having any machine work done or even having the internals and block tanked and magged and inspected, especially after water was in there for god knows how long...You could be doing all this work for nothing.
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No argument there, it's just a question of money, or lack there of. No shop is going to tell me the crank is in perfect condition, I am willing to bet you every shop will want to machine the block, machine the crank, and install new bearings in it, also bore the engine from 20 over to 40 over, and hone the cylinders, tank it, magnaflux it, and new plugs, to the tune of $800 bucks, and I didn't even mention the cam
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
The Pistons Are Unionized

Aside from not having anyone to catch the piston as I gently tapped it out from underneath I was pretty proud of the job. Although we have been here before. The first piston always comes out nice and easy, and looks very clean.

It's like your first kid... short labor, then nice and quiet, just eats and sleeps. You sleep well at night dreaming of having another perfect baby. Fast forward 2 years and Deuce arrives. This kid started kicking and screaming in the fallopian tube and never stopped. She won't eat and poops like a grown up. Ear infections, baby rash, colic, you name it she's got it.

Well you see just like your kids the pistons are Unionized as well, that's why they're not all at Top Dead Center all at once, they let the good ones out first. But I tell you what, I am not going to get all excited, I remember what happened with the valves a few posts up, LOL.

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#100 ·
It looks like You, Me and BDK are all in about the same spot. Except my motors been at the machine shop for 2 and a half weeks already. So you're not gonna fiddle with the cam? Also, have you considered an *ebay master engine rebuild kit*? They run around $300 shipped, and you'll spend $100 on all the gaskets anyways :dunno
 
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