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1969 289 h2o

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Discussion starter · #102 ·
Quick Update

Well that makes us current. I have posted everything I have done up to this point. Thank you all for reading, commenting, and maybe even not saying anything, LOL. Regardless stuff is being done, and I am having fun, and I am learning a bunch about the internal combustion engine, ICE Ice Baby.

It is Friday night and I am going to stay up late like a fool trying to catch up on all the car shows I have DVRer instead of getting some much needed sleep. And tomorrow I am going to work on the Mustang.

I plan on evicting the other crankcase inhabitants, ie pistons. And maybe finally turning the darn thing over. Now wouldn't it be a riot if I did all that and it turned out that the car was in gear the whole time and it's the transmission that's seized!!! :confused:
 
#103 ·
Gregski said:
Never heard of such thing, thanks for the tip, I will most definately check it out, I am an eBay junky.
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I'm considering buying the 302 kit from these guys (Partly because they're also in Texas) but here's the 289 kit
Ford 289 4.7 Master Engine Rebuild Kit 1963-1968 | eBay
Use "289 Master engine kit" as your keywords and it'll pull up about 8 different ones to choose from. Most of them will interchange parts to fit your specific year model needs as well.
 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
Removing Pistons 1-4

Spent Saturday removing the pistons. Learned I have Flatlander Racing TRW L2249N 30 over forged (pronounced expen$ive) domed pistons. The preceding L in the part number stands for Forged, that makes sense L=Forged... Not! but since when are part numbering schemes logical?

Looking the pistons up on the Flatlander website puts them in the 1973-76 302 engine block table, yet my block is a 1966 so it should fall in the 1965-1968 289 engine block table, the concern being deck height. The 302 claims a deck height of 8.229 the 289 does not specify maybe someone could comment on that.

Listen to me rambling on and on as if I had a clue as to what the heck I am talking about, LOL... but man this stuff is intriguing, I had no idea TRW made pistons to me they were just another airline, lol

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Discussion starter · #105 ·
Piston Popper 3000

So how did I get those pistons out? Well I used the Piston Popper 3000, and you thought stir sticks were just for mixing paint!

Note how the con rods were enumerated whilst previously being rebuilt, this was tremendously helpful.

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#106 ·
Gregski said:
So how did I get those pistons out? Well I used the Piston Popper 3000, and you thought stir sticks were just for mixing paint!

Note how the con rods were enumerated whilst previously being rebuilt, this was tremendously helpful.

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I should've used the Piston Popper 3000, my Piston Popper 5000 (Wooden handle of a hammer) broke one of the pistons :(

How does the bore look? Because if it's already bored .030, and a good hone/rering wouldn't do the trick; you couldn't bore that block out very much :confused:
 
#107 ·
Go 040 over..but I think Gregski is going to skip the machining?? Correct me if I'm wrong...
 
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Discussion starter · #108 ·
Cylinders 1-4

67ATX said:
How does the bore look? Because if it's already bored .030, and a good hone/rering wouldn't do the trick; you couldn't bore that block out very much
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Yup, you're right at .030 over I don't have much wiggle room, I believe it's common to go .040 over so maybe there's some machining left to do. The cylinders on the east side look good no ridges on the top like you can normally see or feel (since the pistons don't reach all the way to the top normally), except for the top skirt wear on piston number 1, here are some pics. I honestly don't know if that was wear and tear or if it got rubbed that way when I was tapping it out, what do you guys think?

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Pictures of the west side pistons and cylinders coming soon...
 
#110 ·
ajzride said:
I might wait until you have a new page to post pics of the west side boys. You put 'em both on the same page and you might have a gang war.
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:lmao

I don't think that happened when you were pulling them out, probably wear and tear.
 
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Discussion starter · #112 ·
Some Random Bits Of Information

I used the rubber hose trick on the connecting rod studs to protect things from getting scratched. I also learned what the difference between fuel line and fuel injection hose is... yeah it's about $3.00 bucks per foot, LOL. My old hose was too brittle and starter cracking so I went to Pep Boys to buy some new stuff. Got 3 feet of 1/4 inch and 3 feet of 5/16 hose.

Check out how clean the old oil filter is, that's amazing.

Finally I learned there are holes in the crank journals big enough for me to shove the red straw from my WD-40 can through. I recon these are for lubrication, but who knew?

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Discussion starter · #113 ·
Pistons, Weddings, Texas & Time

Well I don't know how you get your stuck pistons out, but here's what worked for me. After trying to tap it from the top and from the bottom whilst bathing it in WD40 to no avail, (yes I did use whilst, LOL) it was time to get serious.

So I went looking for some trusty ol' transmission fluid and having found none, I grabbed a can of DOT 3 brake fluid. Since the cylinders are at an angle, I could only poor enough fluid to cover approximately half of the piston. But since the skirts are at North and South or 12 and 6 o'clock positions I figured at least one of them will get a bath.

Then I boarded the plane and flew to Texas for a wedding.

Now I know what you are thinking Texas! Really? Well I'm just telling you what worked for me that's all, if you wanna try your luck with Tteenneessee or New Mexico go right ahead.

Anyway when I came back about a week later, I scooped out the left over fluid with some paper towels, shot some PB Blaster and shoved some cut up 2x4 blocks in the hole and bolted the old head back on... all the way tight and it felt like it gave a bit. Once it was on I didn't wait none, I just removed the head, and went back to tapping the piston gently around the circumference and whalla it gave. Then it was a bit of back and forthing up and down, up and down, and she came right out.

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Discussion starter · #116 ·
tireshredder said:
you also fab up a grease fitting in a old spark plug or a few fitting and then pump it full of grease it work for me once on a tractor
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Yup I could see that working, but you probably need a head gasket for that, and like a pin head I tossed my old ones, also you need valves that can seal well for that, and mine was pitted on the old head that I used, finally I aint much of a fabricator yet, I wish I was as comfortable with metal as I am with wood, and that was self taught so maybe there's hope it just takes time, and practice and that's what this is turnin' out ta bee - practice
 
Discussion starter · #117 ·
Cylinders 5-8

and here are the other cylinders 5 through 8, eight being the worst one, it has rust on the bottom 1/3 of the cylinder walls, the rings do not go down that low, so I hope cleaning off the rust and honing will bring it back to life, but all these things are adding up, one scratched piston here, one rusty cylinder there, one stuck lifter here, etc, etc...

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#118 ·
Gregski said:
Then I boarded the plane and flew to Texas for a wedding.

Now I know what you are thinking Texas! Really? Well I'm just telling you what worked for me that's all, if you wanna try your luck with Tteenneessee or New Mexico go right ahead.
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Doubt you find yourself flying to Tteenneessee for a wedding, when siblings get married the whole family is already there.
 
#120 ·
I have a question, How are you going to flush the water passages in the block?

With the much rust in the water passages the radiator will act like a filter and clog up.
 
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67ATX
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