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SON1C

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Can someone give me the basics on it, and how well it works on our cars, i hear you can get a full setup for under 1000 and stock internals handle a 75 wet shot and this will run in the 13 range?

any info would be appreciated
 
#5 ·
Nitrous is a good power adder that works great for any car no matter if it's a V6 Mustang, a V10 Viper, or a 4-banger Honda. It makes good power and amazing torque. It has it's ups and downs just like any other power adder. The major downs are re-filling the bottle and keeping a consistant bottle pressure (which is crucial for performance). There are a lot of myths about nitrous that people spew all over the internet because they don't know better. The nitrous kits of today are a lot more effeciant and safer than your daddys from 40 years ago. The number one thing that I tell people that seems to go against what most others will say is to no matter what GET IT TUNED. I don't care if you are just going with a small 75 shot. Put the car on the dyno and make sure you are getting enough fuel. A few hundred bucks for a dyno tune is a lot cheaper then a new motor. Again, just like any other power adder, you go lean and run out of fuel then you are going to do some dammage.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
how long does 1 tank usually last, and how do you keep consistent bottle pressure?

how much does it cost on average to refill the tank?

what kind of gains can i expect out of it on my v6 which is basically stock performance wise atm (longtubes this weekend and windstar intake soon)
 
#8 ·
Elias101a said:
how long does 1 tank usually last, and how do you keep consistent bottle pressure?

how much does it cost on average to refill the tank?

what kind of gains can i expect out of it on my v6 which is basically stock performance wise atm (longtubes this weekend and windstar intake soon)
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There is a rough equation to calculate. You could probably find it with a google search, but if I remember right for every 100 hp you shoot, 1 lb of nitrous will last about 10 seconds. So if you are just sparying a 75 shot with a 10 lb bottle I would say you could easily get 10-12 1/4mile passes. A bottle warmer will help keep your PSI where it needs to be. But once your bottle gets real low there is nothing you can do. There isn't enough inside to keep you where you need to be.

As far as price, it depends on where you fill it. Last time I checked it's about $4.50-5 a lb. So around $45-50 to fill a 10 lb bottle.

Most nitrous kits ARE NOT rated at the rear wheel. NX kits are the closest that I know of. A 75 shot will not net you a gain of 75 rwhp, but don't be surprised if your torque goes up 100 ft/lbs.

Elias101a said:
also all the kits say theyre for v8's, what modifications do i need to do in order to use a kit?
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The main thing I can think of is the part that goes from the solenoid to the nozzle/plate/whatever you use. A nozzle kit may not be as critical but a V8 plate kit will not work on a V6. The best thing to do is call a place like Harris Speedworks or Nitrous Outlet and talk to someone that could make sure you get what you need for your application.
 
#9 ·
Almost all brands kits are the same.. Besides the solenoids. Even Zex and NX have the same solenoids.. The proton kit from NX is essentially the same as the zex kit you see from AM and everywhere else... But for cheaper. Puny pony hit 12.7 on his kit, 373s, tires udp and exhaust.

Stock bottom end can handle 100 shot safely but I think if you run the windstar on a lower mileage motor you could run a 125 shot at the track and have no problems


I suggest the proton kit with the fly by wire, then also a pressure gauge as a starter kit. Then get other accesories such as bottle warmer and purge.

Also my area runs for 2 bucks a pound on nitrous. :eek:
 
#12 ·
Elias101a said:
how much should i be expecting to spend to get a full nitrous setup?

also im shooting for 13's and eventually high 12's, i think im gonna make punypony's car in that video my blue print lol
Click to expand...
I had same goal but went a different route... Lol

Your spend 550 brand new for a NX setup proton.
Then 50 on pressure gauge
100 for purge
Bottle warmers, price range is all over the place..

Keep in mind you could get all of that cheaper

if your smart with how you spend your money you should be 600-650 dollars.
You should also get tr6ix plugs onew step colder and retard your timing 1-2 degrees
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
can you explain the importance of colder plugs? and why would i retard the timing?

and the install of the kit+accessories is pretty straight forward?

whats an average bottle warmer new cost? and then used?

and i was thinking that nitrous should be the last thing that i add to the setup? and then get it dyno tuned?
 
#16 ·
mustangmike! said:
demon54 had a huge thread on this, with ALOT of usefull info on it. Check it out man.

im wanting a 100 shot, but i dont think ill waste the money on it.
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If you just run a basic kit you can find them for 250 bucks all day.
**** I sold mine brand new still for 320 shipped with nozzles all the way up to 150hp.

I wouldnt say a waste so much, although boost is smarter;)
 
#17 ·
well, its not that im calling it a waste. Ive just went from 10k$ savings to 2k$ savins in 5 months on this car ... a huge chunk of that was in my dads car that i wrecked ...
The original cam project costs. Now this project. Car payments. Insurance. School. Gas. Life. And not working near the hours I used to... takes a toll on your bank account :(
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
i was reading the thread you posted, and it says to go to colder plugs(like you said), and gap between .032-.038, what about when im not using the nitrous, because my car is and will continue to be my daily driver. because stock gap is like .052-.054? something like that
 
#19 ·
mustangmike! said:
well, its not that im calling it a waste. Ive just went from 10k$ savings to 2k$ savins in 5 months on this car ... a huge chunk of that was in my dads car that i wrecked ...
The original cam project costs. Now this project. Car payments. Insurance. School. Gas. Life. And not working near the hours I used to... takes a toll on your bank account :(
Click to expand...
I haven't went through as much but I am in the same boat as you may have noticed. Your be happy when your cars running, looks like your doing it right this time around
 
#20 ·
Elias101a said:
i was reading the thread you posted, and it says to go to colder plugs(like you said), and gap between .032-.038, what about when im not using the nitrous, because my car is and will continue to be my daily driver. because stock gap is like .052-.054? something like that
Click to expand...
Well my teacher had mentioned that he always ran the stock gap on his nitrous cars.. Keep in mind he even ran a 400 shot camaro that lifted the front tires with ease. I had mine gapped at just under what our stock gap is.. Also that page was for the GTs so some info may be a tad different
 
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