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yes...9 volt battery is fine or the car battery
 
Discussion starter · #1,246 ·
Okay so I tested the TPS and it was at .845~. I adjusted it and made it .947~.

Once I finished setting it I started the car and let it idle for 2 minutes. For the first minute it idled fine. Then all of a sudden at about 1 1/2 minutes into letting it idle, the rpms began to sink and then come back up and again, then sink and come back up again. It kept on doing this for 20 seconds before I shut it off.

Im about to go drive it just in the neighborhood.

Any suggestions on what was causing that problem?
 
Discussion starter · #1,247 ·
Alright I just let it try and idle again and it dies again after about 1 1/2 minutes of letting it idle I dont think I wanna drive it too far in case it dies out on me. I might try and just going back and forth in my driveway and a little down the road.
 
my car does this a little too.....maybe try doing the base idle reset again
 
Discussion starter · #1,249 ·
I will. Anyway I did take it for a drive. Seems like it doesnt stall anymore when I go from a start. I definitely have to do more driving but that is what i noticed from about 5 times when I went from a stop.

However, it still does stall when I am cruising in 2nd and throw it in neutral at about 1500 rpms or less. Dam this **** sucks. I got stalled at a dead end. Pissed me off dude
 
its kinda limited. rasies the RPM limiter, and can play with fuel a bit.


I would't pay more then $200 or so for it with its limited ability. you would need a air/fuel ratio gauge at the least to even start playing with it.
 
Discussion starter · #1,253 ·
Yeah man I kinda thought it would be good so I can adjust my air/fuel (even though it might only be a little bit off). I have a wideband in my room, just gotta get it installed.

I mainly wanted it to raise the limiter. I read the MSD boxes can't permanently raise the limiter because the computer takes over, but with the extender, it overrides the computer I believe?

Any way sounds pretty good, and simpler to use instead of fiddling with a quarterhorse or paying for a dyno tune.
 
Discussion starter · #1,254 ·
Alright I let the car idle once more for about 2 1/2 minutes without doing another base idle reset and the rpms didnt fall and come back up again and die. So I decided to go for a drive.

I went to the gas station to fill up since I was almost on the empty red line. That must have been the shittiest drive ever. I stalled basically everytime I was coming to a stop. The car is in 2nd and rolling at about 2k - 1.5k rpms, I throw it in neutral, and the rpms begin to drop and then just drop all the way to 0 and the car stalls. This happened at basically every stoplight. WHAT THE **** this is pissing me off
 
check idle air control, clean it if you need too.

where is the idle currently at?

Mine was stalling alot when I first got it running, but it was just from trying to make it idle at 650-700rpm, when I raised it up to 800 the stalling went away.
 
Discussion starter · #1,257 ·
Alright I guess imma go get a new IAC. I tried cleaning it but it may still need to be replaced. No gunk came out when I cleaned it and it didnt really change anything.

I set my idle to about 800 with the IAC connector unplugged which caused the idle to now sit at just under 1000 with all accessories on.

Tomorrow Ill try to get a new IAC and raise my idle another 100-200.
 
Discussion starter · #1,260 ·
Alright. I dont have my cam card on me, I have to find it and I will let you guys know.

On another note, I went to NAPAs for an IAC and they want $120. I also checked another local auto parts store and they want $138

I just looked on Late Model Restoration and they have an IAC for $65 w/ shipping prolly wont be more than $20, so $85.

Did you guys pay over $100 for a new IAC before?
 
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