Modded Mustang Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Need basic info about CAMS

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 42 Posts

brimmer555

· Registered
Joined
·
597 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have heard that the Ford e,f,b, and x cams are old news these days with all the new technology in cams.

I know that Comp Cams are a big name, and Trick flow has made its self a house hold name with lots of people.

What I need is dumbed down info on the duration and lift and all that stuff about cams.

So please help me understand Cams.
I know they open an close the valves in the heads.
But I don't understand duration or lift tech #'s.

I have a stock '89 GT 5.0L V8.
I am looking at a Comp Cam (Xtreme energy cam)
with 274 degrees Duration, .555/ .565" Lift
power range says from 1300-5600 RPM.Thanks for your info an help
 
#2 ·
Don'y waist your time on a cam unless you've got a decent flowing set of heads, intake, headers & full exhaust. The stock cam is more than capible of making well over 300 fwhp with a decent set of heads, intake, & exhaust.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#3 ·
The problem with that, is that there isn't a dumb down answer. Camshafts are very complex, and truth be told, even people on most websites that are pretty tech savvy, can't spec a cam. A few can give basic answers. Like, I can tell you the XE274 you're looking at is too much for your stock engine.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
horsepowerjunkie said:
Don'y waist your time on a cam unless you've got a decent flowing set of heads, intake, headers & full exhaust. The stock cam is more than capible of making well over 300 fwhp with a decent set of heads, intake, & exhaust.
Click to expand...
I have a functional ram air hood and BBK ceramic coated unequal headers.

Soon I'll have a o/r X pipe. I am about to turn my stock muffler into dumps.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
69fastback said:
The problem with that, is that there isn't a dumb down answer. Camshafts are very complex, and truth be told, even people on most websites that are pretty tech savvy, can't spec a cam. A few can give basic answers. Like, I can tell you the XE274 you're looking at is too much for your stock engine.
Click to expand...
When you say it's to much for my engine, elaborate on why it's to much cam for my Mustang.
 
#6 ·
brimmer555 said:
I have a functional ram air hood and BBK ceramic coated unequal headers.

Soon I'll have a o/r X pipe. I am about to turn my stock muffler into dumps.
Click to expand...
you need more then an exhaust system to really justify a cam swap.....just save your money and buy a good set of heads, youll see more power from that then any thing else ( besides a power adder )
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I understand what you guys are trying to tell me about not putting that cam in my car.

but back on track is there anyone that can give me the short an skinny of what duration and lift all do?
 
#9 ·
Duration is just that; the duration the cam opens the valve.
Lift is just that; the height/amount the valve is opened.

Camshafts are simple in the sense they open valves for an amount of time then let them close. Camshafts are very, very, VERY! Complicated in the sense that everything with an engine is relative to them and they are equally relative to everything with the engine and The timing of everything.

With so many variables as to how an engine can be built, custom camshafts make the most sense as a custom camshaft can be matched to all the specifics of the engine.

Listen to the advice of adding the components before adding the component they rely upon(or add it all together at the same time).
 
#10 ·
ddarkslayer said:
everything you need to know is in this video if you wanna start with the camshaft profile start at 45:15 or just watch the whole video. 5.0L Engine Swap into a Fox Platform vol.1, parts 11-13 Now watch Free - YouTube
I would just watch the whole video.
Click to expand...
That part about the camshafts is ok if you know nothing about camshafts and want the basics (which I realize is what the op is asking), but there's some misinformation in there and it's definitely not even 1% of everything you need to know about camshafts. It's very generalized so take that information as a basic understanding of camshafts, but don't use his ideas in selecting a camshaft. For one, more lift does not always equal greater performance. If you have heads (or an induction system) that flow great at .450 but choke off severely by .600, you don't want a cam with .625 lift in it. There's a lot more generalizations in there that I'm not fond of, but as for giving an idea of the basics of how a cam works, it will work.. But like I said, don't watch that and then think you'll know how to pick a cam for your car.
 
#12 ·
brimmer555 said:
When you say it's to much for my engine, elaborate on why it's to much cam for my Mustang.
Click to expand...
The reason that cam is "to much" for your setup is because of the lift. Anything over a .500'' lift requires new valve springs. As the lift increases it will bind the springs.

as for duration; usually anything more than .290 will require a higher than stock stall converter in an automatic car. that's the nice thing about manual shift cars.

the above are basic comments made about your question.

As for letter cams... most people on here stay away from them because it's "what everybody" says to do when in fact a B and E cam in a stick car is a very nice street cam. Has a great power band for the street.

You need to be real about what you are doing with the car.
the xe274 is a great cam for the street with a 2,200-6,200 power band, which is where your going to be doing most of your driving in a street car. but you will need better heads, intake, exhaust, and fuel.

If your just after some cheap horse power and a great sound go with the B cam. I have seen them on CL with the upgraded lifters for $100.00 but if your running an AOD car go with the E cam.
If you run a B cam in an AOD car then upgrade the aod computer to the 5-speed computer the car will idle alot better.

What are you wanting to do with your car?
How much do you have to spend?
 
#13 ·
brimmer555 said:
I wanna know how to pick a cam for my Mustang
Click to expand...
then you want to know what your mustang has. What is the peak flow n/a of your heads? How is the exhaust setup? What rpm range is the motor going to spend the most time in?

...that cam you mentioned looks close to a stock cam with 1.73 rockers.

When choosing a cam, understanding how the components relevant function is key. Example, if your heads flow max at .450" lift and you get a cam that lifts to .540" you're putting excess wear on the valve train, not getting more power. If your exhaust is too big to produce enough draw to clear out the exhaust and draw in a small bit of the charge, then overlap won't help.

Keep researching till you understand more than just the basics. You don't need to have a mastery of camshafts, just know enough to know how the camshaft and engine and components relate to eachother and function together. That way, when you talk to an expert, you will understand why he/she/the computer recommends a certain cam or a custom cam or why you should be polite, say goodbye, and talk to somebody else.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
1FAST6 said:
The reason that cam is "to much" for your setup is because of the lift. Anything over a .500'' lift requires new valve springs. As the lift increases it will bind the springs.

as for duration; usually anything more than .290 will require a higher than stock stall converter in an automatic car. that's the nice thing about manual shift cars.

the above are basic comments made about your question.

As for letter cams... most people on here stay away from them because it's "what everybody" says to do when in fact a B and E cam in a stick car is a very nice street cam. Has a great power band for the street.

You need to be real about what you are doing with the car.
the xe274 is a great cam for the street with a 2,200-6,200 power band, which is where your going to be doing most of your driving in a street car. but you will need better heads, intake, exhaust, and fuel.

If your just after some cheap horse power and a great sound go with the B cam. I have seen them on CL with the upgraded lifters for $100.00 but if your running an AOD car go with the E cam.
If you run a B cam in an AOD car then upgrade the aod computer to the 5-speed computer the car will idle alot better.

What are you wanting to do with your car?
How much do you have to spend?
Click to expand...
I just had a son an it's christmas time almost so i'm in the negative right now.
My next mods will be an off road X pipe, new power rack an pin, re-sealing windshield.

It's gonna be a lifer project :yes I plan on working on more with my son when he's old enough.

I love the day the B cam sounds.
I'll be getting GT40 heads at some point an porting them, some kinda aftermarket or explorer upper an lower, electric water pump, electric fan and aluminum 3 or 4 core radiator, bigger injectors, MAF sensor, roller rockers, roller tapets, chromoly push rods, and so on an so on.

maybe a kenny bell 2.2 blower.
 
#15 ·
brimmer555 said:
I just had a son an it's christmas time almost so i'm in the negative right now.
My next mods will be an off road X pipe, new power rack an pin, re-sealing windshield.
Click to expand...
I would do exhaust and gears 1st on your budget. a set of 4.10 can be had for cheap on the stang forums or CL.

free up the restrictive exhaust as well. then from there skies the limit you can mortgage the house lol. just remember.... all it takes is $$$ :D
 
#16 ·
I know that will be WAYY to much lift for stock valve springs.
As for it being to much cam. Its true.
I suspect with all that overlap you will knock down your compression ratio in theory. On that note with stock heads/intake you will lower your volumetric efficiency. If you have head/intake setup you will be very capable of increasing v/e. What I mean by volumetric efficiency is that the amount of air physically inside of your cylinder compared to your actual "Calculated" displacement.

Simply you make your cylinders hold more air. Inturn increasing compression, increasing fuel to keep proper air/fuel ratio, increasing power.

If you put the cam with valvesprings of course. You will achieve that "lumpy" idle. It will sound very nice. Performance wise I predict you will loose power due to compression loss because your heads will choke that cam.

Hope that kind of helped your understanding of why everyone thinks its too much cam for your heads.
 
#20 ·
I personally think the Gt40 heads are a waste of money and time... Some people may argue that but its just my opinion. If I were you I would look into some AFR165's or 175's. Upgrade your valvesprings, I know crane cams makes some bee-hive style springs that will handle that camshaft. I cant remember what springs I used for my 347 build but it had .608'' lift on the exhaust side on a rolller cam. If you email comp cams they will tell you what springs they suggest dependingon the rocker arm ratio.

Keep in mind heads are expensive, you will be looking at an intake setup to go with it.
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
About this Discussion
41 Replies
11 Participants
Last post:
brimmer555
Modded Mustang Forums
posts
6.3M
members
83K
Since
2005
A forum community dedicated to all Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, builds, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
96 - 04 Modular Mustangs 5.0 Mustangs New Members Introductions Classic Mustangs