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Not trying to thread jack, but with a spr cam replacing the springs is so you can safely spin the cam to upwards of 7k right? If i have no intentions of revving that high is it still necessary with a spr cam?
the springs main pupose is to not allow for valve float due to the higher rpms. I know of two guys that installed spr cams without springs and their cars are still working great after a year now. Not something I would do, but to each their own I guess.
 
what do you mean in order? you want the first lobe on the exhaust stroke or something like that right? then just slowly undo the 5 followers? starting in the front first? you take the phaser bolt out first then do the 5 followers? or other way around?
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
The bitch about it is, I have done PLENTY of cams in my life.


BUT, none on a Ford modular, and more importantly, they have all been overhead cams with next to no spring preload, and with buckets instead of rocker looking followers and no chain that can fall off down inside a cover.

Here is the last engine I did
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the cam doesnt need to be in a special position? or just unscrew the 5 followers evenly and take them out and put the new one in the exact same way that one cam out? you take the phaser bolt out first i would imagine.. then 89 inch pounds on the followers when you are done right? sorry like stated above... first time working on a car!
 
Remove the phaser bolt, loose the cam caps evenly, remove the cam, put in new cam in the same position, and work backwards. 89 in lbs on the caps I think and 30-35 ft lbs on the phasers + 90*. As long as the cam goes in the same way it came out, you'll be fine. I wouldn't worry about what position its in when you remove it though.
 
well thats easy enough, the phaser bolt is 30ft lbs +90* so just watch the timing chain and it should just bolt right back in... hmmm seems easier than i was thinking, just need an inch pound wrench! damn!
 
well thats easy enough, the phaser bolt is 30ft lbs +90* so just watch the timing chain and it should just bolt right back in... hmmm seems easier than i was thinking, just need an inch pound wrench! damn!
Nah, I just did 10 ft lbs. 89 in lbs really isn't that much tq. I may have done one side with the tq wrench then just used my hand as my tq wrench on the other side.
 
so just go 10 ft lbs then? or just tighten as hard as you can with your hands? thats all they are tightened? well i am going to finish this **** this weekend then! Anothers197gt thanks for the input man! hopefully it works for me! lol
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
so just go 10 ft lbs then? or just tighten as hard as you can with your hands? thats all they are tightened? well i am going to finish this **** this weekend then! Anothers197gt thanks for the input man! hopefully it works for me! lol
You can hand crank a hell of a lot more than 10ft/lbs
 
well makes sense but damn... what are you sweating about this wrath? sorry to almost thread jack you here.. lol, you already had the valve covers off...
 
nice, well if this works out there is no reason any person cant install these, cause i have no expierence at all, only done axle back exhaust, cai and springs before..
 
You will be fine. Tearing into a motor is daunting, but this are so easy its retarded. My last piece of advice to you.. make sure you put the right cam on the right side and left on the left. Also, spin the motor by hand before you put everything back together to make sure you didn't jump a tooth.
 
how can you tell if it did, and just do that on the crank bolt right?i am going to paint marker the timing chain in a few spots also to make sure it didnt move, but i will crank it by hand also, where does it say what cam is which?? on the end by where the phaser bolt goes in?
 
If there is a serious timing issue the motor will bind up and won't roll smoothly. Just put a ratchet on the crank bolt and start turning. ~130ish times is a full cycle through the motor. It should say on the box the cams come in/engraved on the cam. If you get them mixed up one will stick out WAY further than it should.
 
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