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Hot Rod NSR install with no special tools.. Questions

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Discussion starter · #41 ·
$5 says the first time I go to crank it over I cant figure out why it wont turn for a few seconds, because I forgot to take it out of park.
 
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#43 ·
yeah, you have to replace the two phaser bolts, but thats after i pull the old one out, take the 5 followers off, put in the new cam, put the followers back on.. then put in the new phaser bolt at 30ft lbs +90*, the 90* is what makes them unusable again... everyone of the people i work with told me i was stupid for doing this myself and i will blow my new car up... i told them i am saving 600 dollars is what i am doing..
 
#47 ·
so i was reading hucks noise problem and noticed in there that he had take the 5 caps and loosened them until he could get the 3 followers out... do you need to take out the 3 followers below the cam? or he just did what the ford manual says to do? because your saying i can just remove the phaser bolt and undo the 5 caps evenly until they come off and the cam should just pull out right? then replace the cam with the aftermarket cam and put the 5 caps back on, then the NEW phaser bolt right? man i am thinking i am going to mess that up, thats what i understand though right? and the 5 caps are what you can torque to 10ft lbs/ 89 in lbs/ or by hand right? thanks again!
 
#48 ·
You can leave the followers in. The caps are what you torque down. Put the cam on the phaser first, there are guides to make sure it bolts on the phaser properly. Once the came is bolted (tightish is fine right now), put the cam back in the journals and torque the caps down. After the caps are tightened, follow the torquing procedure for the phaser bolt. Torque the caps like this. Go over them afterwards to make sure you didn't miss a bolt.

Image
 
#49 ·
Silverrider said:
so i was reading hucks noise problem and noticed in there that he had take the 5 caps and loosened them until he could get the 3 followers out... do you need to take out the 3 followers below the cam? or he just did what the ford manual says to do? because your saying i can just remove the phaser bolt and undo the 5 caps evenly until they come off and the cam should just pull out right? then replace the cam with the aftermarket cam and put the 5 caps back on, then the NEW phaser bolt right? man i am thinking i am going to mess that up, thats what i understand though right? and the 5 caps are what you can torque to 10ft lbs/ 89 in lbs/ or by hand right? thanks again!
Click to expand...
I followed the instructions for the 2010 (no timing marks) and aligned my cam are illustrated. I slowly loosened the cap screws (1/4 turn at a time) until I could remove the three followers. I then torqued all the caps down, rotated the cam to the next illustrated position, and then removed the caps. Install worked the same way. Torques all caps down, rotated back to the original position, loosened up the caps (1/4 turn) until I could re-install the three removed followers, and finally torqued the caps down. UltraKla$$ic gave me this approach when I was doing my cams. Worked like a charm. I had very little tension on the cam/followers and virtually no follower movement. BTW, I did use the timing chain wedge.
 
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#50 ·
AnotherS197GT said:
You can leave the followers in. The caps are what you torque down. Put the cam on the phaser first, there are guides to make sure it bolts on the phaser properly. Once the came is bolted (tightish is fine right now), put the cam back in the journals and torque the caps down. After the caps are tightened, follow the torquing procedure for the phaser bolt. Torque the caps like this. Go over them afterwards to make sure you didn't miss a bolt.
QUOTE]

so undo phaser bolt and take it out, undo the caps slowly and evenly, once they are completely off remove the stock cam, put aftermarket cam in same position, put phaser bolt in (tightish- great word another;) )then put caps on, put them all on then torque them by hand in the image above, go over and check to make sure all are snugged and torqued, do the same for the other side, when finished hand crank the motor to see if it rolls over smoothly... that it? please read over and make sure all are in order... thanks, i am dumb (frightened) i know!:tomato
Click to expand...
 
#52 ·
oops... lol, 30 ft lbs and 90*... after the caps are torqued, well wish me luck i am going to try this when the wife gets home from work and she can watch the kiddo! hopefully have them in by tonight and torqued down, then valve covers and connect everything tomorrow, then i need to start on my delete plugs!
 
#55 ·
Panik, you will be able to do this ****! lol, just you wait... starting in the morning since the wife wants to "hang out" damn work and family always getting in the way;)
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
In for updates.

Im gonna start on my headers tomorrow when it warms up a little. Looks like I have a window of about a day and a half where it wont be cold in my garage.
 
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#57 ·
wrathchild said:
In for updates.

Im gonna start on my headers tomorrow when it warms up a little. Looks like I have a window of about a day and a half where it wont be cold in my garage.
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cold in Austin? is the high only 75???? :D
 
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Discussion starter · #58 ·
Its 50s right now. Will be upper 60s monday, lower 60s tomorrow.

Im gonna at least get the factory H off tomorrow. I know, I set the bar REALLY high dont I :lol


Maybe Ill do that, then drink some beers. I tend to get more motivated to go out in the garage crank some zz top or something and wrench, after a few beers :lol
 
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#59 ·
wrathchild said:
Its 50s right now. Will be upper 60s monday, lower 60s tomorrow.

Im gonna at least get the factory H off tomorrow. I know, I set the bar REALLY high dont I :lol


Maybe Ill do that, then drink some beers. I tend to get more motivated to go out in the garage crank some zz top or something and wrench, after a few beers :lol
Click to expand...
Never realized your in Austin, I'm here too haha and it is pretty chilly tonight for sure. I'm hoping to change my plugs tomorrow.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
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PanikRev41
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