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Danno

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I had to replace my heater core, and figured since I had the dash out, it'd be a good time to make a number of other changes (new seats, carpet, headliner, roll bar, instrument bulbs, gauge pods, alarm system, dash speakers, etc.). I'm learning a lot in the process, and a had a couple of questions:

1) Almost all of the sound deadening/heat insulation that was on the floorboards is cracked and literally peels right off when I pull on it. Because of this, I'm in the process of pulling it all out. Are there safety considerations to take into account to determine if I need to replace it? Safety is really my only concern. The car has no A/C, so I only really drive it during the winter, so some extra heat getting into the cockpit is fine by me. It's a weekend driver, so I don't mind the added noise or fumes from the exhaust either. If that's all that stuff was doing, then I'll plan on leaving it bare metal, but are there other considerations I'm not thinking about? (i.e. - will the floorboards rust sooner, etc.?) Also, is the sound deadener painted on at the factory, or has my car's interior been painted?

2) The guy who built the car before I bought it installed Autometer gauges, and now my factory water temp and oil pressure gauges don't work (even though he also installed a tach and the factory tach works). I've pulled up numerous wiring diagrams online but can't seem to figure out how he disconnected the factory units to plug in the aftermarket ones. I'd like both gauges to work, even if they give me conflicting signals. Where would I find the factory sending units for oil pressure and water temp? I've tried tracing the factory instrument cluster connectors to the source, but get lost in the spider web of wiring. I plan to splice them and send to both gauges if at all possible.

3) I've cut most of my old 4-pt cage out, as it had awful welds that would prevent me from passing tech, and am finishing up grinding down the old welds from the floorboards. I didn't know enough about welding before I bought the car, so didn't know this would be an issue - live and learn people! live and learn. I've got a new cage in the mail already (Maximum Motorsports' 6-pt), and am wondering if anyone has installed one, how simple the directions are. I will be taking it to a professional, but if there any additional steps to prep the car for the welder, I'd like to do it to save myself added cost of his time. That said, as it sits right now, the welder will be getting a car with minimal dash, no seats or carpet, and the old weld spots ground down and cleansed of any prior work.

4) Are there other things I should be doing while I have the car apart that I haven't thought about? I'd love to hear what else would save me time later.

Cheers,
Danno

Some pics below, and more to follow tomorrow when I get them off of my DSLR:

Old Carpet:
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An example of the crap welding (these are the subframe connectors):
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Another example of crap welding:
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A pic of the dash being painted:
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The sound deadner is just to block out road noise. At the minimum id put in carpet.

The sending units for the oil pressure and water temp are located....

Oil pressure.

Low on the drivers side engine block towards the front. A single wire goes to it.

Water temp.

Drivers side front of lower intake, with a single wire going to it.

I doubt the wires are conected, but this should point you in the right direction.

Ill post links to what the sending units look like.

1990-93 Oil Pressure Sending Unit, 5.0L at LRS - Free Shipping!


1979-95 Mustang 5.0L Temperature Gauge Sending Unit at LRS - Free Shipping!
 
do you know if the auto meters are electric or mechanical? if theyre mechanical youll have to tee in to the oil pressure and find another spot for the water temp
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I haven't yanked the water pressure gauge, but I know the oil gauge is mechanical because there's braided line running from the engine to the oil gauge. I guess I figured I could just splice a wire that was sending voltage...is there some electric converter that the factory gauges use to avoid having a braided line running into the dash?
 
no you just have to get an electric oil pressure gauge and another sending unit. i would think it would be better to have one mechanical and one electrical for redundancy purposes.. instead of two electrical.

if your water temp is mechanical (ill bet it is) there will be a capillary tube line running into the dash also.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
if your water temp is mechanical (ill bet it is) there will be a capillary tube line running into the dash also.
I have no clue. I'll take a look this weekend when I dive back into it.

no you just have to get an electric oil pressure gauge and another sending unit.
Sorry for being dense - does the second sending unit get piped into the engine somewhere else, or what? I don't have the car near me, or else I'd go take a look at it and try to make some discoveries on my own.




Here are a few more pics, as promised of the progress:

Old carpet - check out the crazy sun fading:
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Old carpet & New carpet:
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Cutting out the old cage - this took a LOT longer than expected:
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I had to remove the pole in order to remove the plate:
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Plate almost out...
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Final product. Not very pleased, considering there were two holes from the original welder, who was a certified no talent assclown:
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Final product with view from drivers side:
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Aren't fisheye lenses cool? Note the 180 degree point of view:
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I mean really, for $200 - this is the best lens i've ever bought:
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This is as it sits right now. I still need to re-mount the fuel pressure gauge outside and re-route it back through the firewall (see it on the passenger floor?)
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this is the fitting on the block where the sending unit goes.
most likely your sending unit was removed and the mechanical gauge was plumbed right in (i did the exact same thing on a fox motor that i put in my old Torino)

youll need to put a tee in and put a new sending unit along with your gauge plumbing
 
its coming along good by the way!!

is that a pro 5.0 shifter? if so what do you thnk of it
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
most likely your sending unit was removed and the mechanical gauge was plumbed right in
I think you're spot on. I don't have the car with me, but looking at pics of the engine bay leads me to believe this is true. Thanks!

is that a pro 5.0 shifter? if so what do you thnk of it
Yeah it is, and yeah, I like it. It's nice and "chunky", and I can hammer on it and it doesn't complain! By chunky I mean that it's not loose or sloppy when shifting.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
The Stang's been out of commission for about 4 months now, and I just finished everything up (well 99% at least) a few days ago. Here are the rest of the pics.


First day I bought it. Note, no stereo or ash tray lid. Dry rotted steering wheel.
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I'm not sure what the prior dude had on the A/C controls, but that's super glue, so I had to buy a new one (used on eBay for cheap)
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It's funny...I don't remember Ford making an off-white interior color...
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Ford DIDN'T Make an off-white interior - that's sun faded Titanium Grey!
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It's weird - all of the Titanium grey stuff turns people from the sun - including the dash parts. Notice the seat here and the section under the steering column a couple pics back.
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Out came the old roll bar. Them there are some nice welds, eh??
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This job originally began life as a heater core replacement job, so just about the entire dash had to come out.
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While I was at it I thought I'd scrape off all of the sound deadener and lose some more weight. This was a nightmare but VERY rewarding at the end.
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I chose a 6-pt cage from Maximum Motorsport with swing out door bars. These normally just bolt to your floorpan, which isn't that strong of a design, so I had my chassis guy weld the bottom plate to the subframe connectors. This allows the cage to still technically be a bolt-in, but it's bolted into the body and not just the weak floorboard (the rear is still week as it's bolted through the wheel well). See next pic for underneath shot.
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This is the bottom plate of the roll cage, welded to a "jumper" plate that is then welded into the subframe connectors/frame rail.
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Once I scraped the sound deadener off, I would use a grinder to clean the metal, then seal it in with a primer, then painted it to lock it all in.
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Grinding, priming, painting...
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All finished and ready to start putting it all back together...
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I picked up a new shifter boot from LRS
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Laid in the new carpet. I took my damn sweet time on the cuts to make sure I didn't screw anything up...
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Putting in the new Corbeau seats that the wifey bought me...
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I put the original back seats back in and plan to eventually upgrade the fabric to match the Corbeau's...Christmas is almost here!
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Almost back together...
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Finished Product. WAY too many subtle issues to point out but I'll try:
New Shift Knob
New Center Cluster Gauge Pod (Fuel Gauge is on passenger floor - i'm mounting that outside and behind the cowl)
New seats
New Shifter Boot & Cover (old one had a dumb alarm LED in it)
New Cage, painted Matte Black with $6 worth of spray cans from Home Depot
New A/C Controls & bezel (from LRS)
All Titanium Dash parts re-painted with factory paint (stain) from LRS
All Black Dash parts painted matte black to match roll cage
New Carpet & Floormats
New Heater Core
New E-Brake boot (not pictured - still waiting on it to arrive - that's the last piece and that's why the arm rest isn't re-installed yet)
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Damn that **** looks good! I'm going to do something similar when I get a full weekend to do it...
What corbeaus are those? Look damn good. How do they support you through corners? How much were they? Never heard of first hand experience with corbeaus.

Sent from my galaxy s II
 
how do you like the pro 5.0? I just got a sweet ass deal off ebay for one, 135 brand new!
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
The Corbeaus are awesome. I love them. My car isn't much of a cornering car since it's setup for drag racing, but the seats hold me very snug.

For perspective, I'm 5'10" and weigh about 170 lbs, athletic build, and the seats sit a lot higher than the factory ones did. I love it, as it helps me see over the cowl and gives me the perspective that I've always wanted in my Mustang (I always felt like a little kid due to how low they made me sit behind the wheel), but when (AND IF) I sell the car, it might turn off a prospective buyer if they're taller than say, 6' 2". I'm gonna put a few tall friends of mine in the car and see where the sweet spot is...it might be lower than 6' 2". Right now I think my helmet might rub at the track.

Either way, they look great and feel great, so I'm very happy!
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
It's the Grant "Formula GT". Here's the link:

Grant Steering Wheels

If you have an airbag system then Grant doesn't make a kit for your car. I had to buy an older (non-airbag) kit and figure out how to unplug the airbag without having the computer go nuts.
 
It's the Grant "Formula GT". Here's the link:

Grant Steering Wheels

If you have an airbag system then Grant doesn't make a kit for your car. I had to buy an older (non-airbag) kit and figure out how to unplug the airbag without having the computer go nuts.
My airbag is disconnected anyway haha. That'd work perfectly for me. Thanks man.

Sent from my galaxy s II
 
The interior came out really good man. Nice job!
 
That looks great!! Only problem it's almost the same thing I want to do...I thought it would be unique. I bought the same carpet and floormats and I'll probably be getting those same damn seats. Haven't decided on grey or black doors though. It's really funny because I have a 347 w/Brodix heads too.
 
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