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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Now that its getting colder its really struggling to not stall out when its on , I couldnt even back out of my spot without my car stalling, imma take it to the shop tommorrow or Tuesday if it will make it there

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
If cleaning it didn't work than you need a new IAC valve. Went through this with my Explorer. That's my guess at least.

You can get OEM replacments for under $100.

RockAuto Parts Catalog
Yeah the shop just called me said it was the IAC valve, they also checked a sensor and said it needed to be replaced too

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
I get my car back today they said they had fixed it, they put a new IAC valve in and drove it said it was good to go. Well 10 min after driving away I park somewhere, when i shift into reverse the car almost stalls out, and as i sit there the rpms start bouncing around again! So i had to take it back, they said It might be a computer issue. This is so ANNOYING!!
 
Has anyone checked the throttle stop screw preset yet? Do not depend on the dealer mechanics to do this, most don't even know it's something that needs to be done.

Another possible trouble point is the PCV valve, if clogged that will also reduce the fixed bypass air entering the plenum...
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Has anyone checked the throttle stop screw preset yet? Do not depend on the dealer mechanics to do this, most don't even know it's something that needs to be done.

Another possible trouble point is the PCV valve, if clogged that will also reduce the fixed bypass air entering the plenum...
no i dont think thats been checked yet, where is that located?
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
ok so an update on the problem pretty much the shop doesn't know what is wrong with it, because it will run like a charm and then all the sudden start fluctuating rpms again out of no where. The said it wasn't clogged cats, or MAF, new IAC not the prob, brand new vacuum lines not the prob. Its not pulling any codes at all. They think might me a intake leak or something computer wise thats causing it. What do you guys think?
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Ok so an update on my problem the mechanic has tested my car with every test he has and shows nothing . I told him about the throttle screw and he said he will check it out but the computer should reset itself to match the position if the screw was moved , he ran a fuel pressure which it passed , he ran an intake test it passed , he ran a data point test and all the sensors passed , he thinks it could be the aftermarket bbk cold air intake so he's gonna take it off and run it regular and see if that fixes it

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Ok so an update on my problem the mechanic has tested my car with every test he has and shows nothing . I told him about the throttle screw and he said he will check it out but the computer should reset itself to match the position if the screw was moved , he ran a fuel pressure which it passed , he ran an intake test it passed , he ran a data point test and all the sensors passed , he thinks it could be the aftermarket bbk cold air intake so he's gonna take it off and run it regular and see if that fixes it

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He is wrong, so it is good that he his going the check the setting--make sure he does. What he is referring to is the ratch voltage which is the lowest throttle position sensor voltage observed by the PCM, and is considered to represent "closed throttle" by the PCM. It is constantly updated, though the longer the engine runs the longer it takes to learn new values. The ratch voltage is unrelated to the throttle stop screw preset adjustment.

There is a scalar value in the tune named Airflow through throttle body (see below) that tells the PCM how much air is "flowing through the throttle body" (duh?) with the throttle "closed". Setting the stop screw as described will make the actual air flow as close to that value as is practical...

Image
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
He is wrong, so it is good that he his going the check the setting--make sure he does. What he is referring to is the ratch voltage which is the lowest throttle position sensor voltage observed by the PCM, and is considered to represent "closed throttle" by the PCM. It is constantly updated, though the longer the engine runs the longer it takes to learn new values. The ratch voltage is unrelated to the throttle stop screw preset adjustment.

There is a scalar value in the tune named Airflow through throttle body (see below) that tells the PCM how much air is "flowing through the throttle body" (duh?) with the throttle "closed". Setting the stop screw as described will make the actual air flow as close to that value as is practical...

Image
Ok thanks so much this helps a lot

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Discussion starter · #35 ·
Ok they think they figured out what the problem was. It was the fuel pressure, They said it had where 30lbs was the max so when the car started up it was fine but then it slowly leaks pressure as it goes on, said there was a wire that was shorting it out somewhere or something, not a cheap fix
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Omg I'm so freakin pissed, more problems!! This morning when I drove her she was struggling to go in first like it was trying to stall, I had to put the clutch in and rev the rpms up then engage wtf could this be. So many freakin problems , this will be my third trip to the shop with pretty much the same problem

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Omg I'm so freakin pissed, more problems!! This morning when I drove her she was struggling to go in first like it was trying to stall, I had to put the clutch in and rev the rpms up then engage wtf could this be. So many freakin problems , this will be my third trip to the shop with pretty much the same problem

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shops are useless :bash:
 
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