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You can do that with TFS heads and the right cams. A decent intake will be needed as well. Porting isn't need, but it if its in the budget, it won't hurt either. I'd save the porting money and use it for other supporting items. The TFS heads also gain you some PTV clearance by design, so that allows you to use a more aggressive cam with stock pistons vs using ported PI heads. I have TFS head and CMS cam combo packages that will save you some money as well. Let me know if you have any questions.

Jim
 
You can have a pretty quick car without fi or the baby bottle. Suspension and weight reduction has brought me on the verge of breaking 11s na. Im only at 312hp/342ft-lbs. I surprise people all the time at the track. Im sure i could make an 11 second pass seeing that the weather is getting cooler but my car is down for my winter build
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I want the time for sure! What all do you have done to your car marcs?

And I was definitely wanting to get some decently aggressive cams. Mainly for the sound :drool you said porting and polishing wasn't needed. But I was just thinking that I might as well since they were already out lol. But what other supporting mods were you thinking?


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I have 4.10s, Offroad x, auburn pro posi, 31 spline axles, Jlt intake and a sct tuner. Launching at 2200-2500 because I can't hook lol. But also have h and r springs koni adjustables, and lower control arms. On a good day I know I can hit 13.4 with my current set up so hoping the k member and longtubes I'm doing next will put me in the 12s will keep you guys updated. If your doing shocks, struts I personally suggest the strange adjustables can't go wrong
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
You can have a pretty quick car without fi or the baby bottle. Suspension and weight reduction has brought me on the verge of breaking 11s na. Im only at 312hp/342ft-lbs. I surprise people all the time at the track. Im sure i could make an 11 second pass seeing that the weather is getting cooler but my car is down for my winter build
Yeah, I learned a lot from yours and the others mentioned! The only bad thing is, I can't really do any weight reduction until I get another car. I need my 4 seats and stuff like that. But I am sure there is some stuff I can throw out :yes


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Discussion starter · #26 ·
I have 4.10s, Offroad x, auburn pro posi, 31 spline axles, Jlt intake and a sct tuner. Launching at 2200-2500 because I can't hook lol. But also have h and r springs koni adjustables, and lower control arms. On a good day I know I can hit 13.4 with my current set up so hoping the k member and longtubes I'm doing next will put me in the 12s will keep you guys updated. If your doing shocks, struts I personally suggest the strange adjustables can't go wrong
Nice! I have long tubes already, full bolt ons (minus intake manifold and tb) I have steeda LCAs, just bought stock springs, I am saving for 31 spline axles and LSD. Then I'll get flsfcs and struts up front. Is it true that the shocks in the rear is already good for drag?


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Discussion starter · #28 ·
Nice! I have long tubes already, full bolt ons (minus intake manifold and tb) I have steeda LCAs, just bought stock springs, I am saving for 31 spline axles and LSD. Then I'll get flsfcs and struts up front. Is it true that the shocks in the rear is already good for drag?


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Edit: oh yeah, and 4.10s with a hand held tuner


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Nice! I have long tubes already, full bolt ons (minus intake manifold and tb) I have steeda LCAs, just bought stock springs, I am saving for 31 spline axles and LSD. Then I'll get flsfcs and struts up front. Is it true that the shocks in the rear is already good for drag?


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I have koni adjustable rear shocks but you an use the stock rear shocks they're just fine for drag racing with a nice front suspension you can get the weight transfer you need. My h and r springs and koni struts are way to stiff up front and I get no weight transfer which explains my shitty 60 foot. Look up "tsprink" on YouTube he's running 12.6 with just bolt ons
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I have all 4 seats and its full leather with power seats heaviest interior available lol
What all have you done, weight reduction wise?


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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Nice! I could imagine some drag tires would help a lot lol


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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Nah, I haven't seen it yet. It drains my phone battery


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Most of us talk rwhp not hp. 350 hp is approximatel 298 rwhp. You can get pretty close with bolt ons and cams but it is rare to hit 300 rwhp without aftermarket heads. You will not hit 350 rwhp using stock compression ratios. It will take something like 12.5:1 compression to do that.

Starting with a completely stock motor. Paying for parts and labor it costs more to hit 300 rwhp naturally aspirated than to hit 400 rwhp supercharged.
the 38cc TFS heads will bump compression slightly, but enough to see 340-350 to the WHEELS as shown in the video i linked... and he was using comp cams, which im sure by using CMS, MSH, HP, or Hi tech you might see higher numbers with a better cam choice.

It is really expensive to do it NA :baller: . Nobody here is saying otherwise, and OP understands that a S/C would be more efficient, but there's just something about staying NA thats badass...
 
Good post. Those numbers are easy these days with TFS heads. Stock bottom end, 38cc TFS and CMS Stage 2.5 n/a........BAM!
you should give me some stage 2 CMS cams :naughty:
i hear they like N20 on an NA motor
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Dumb question, heads will boost the compression, right? What else could I do to get the compression where I want? But the tf heads and cams should run about how much money? And how many hours of labor would that be? And with the cams I'll probably need valve springs and stuff like that right?


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Dumb question, heads will boost the compression, right? What else could I do to get the compression where I want? But the tf heads and cams should run about how much money? And how many hours of labor would that be? And with the cams I'll probably need valve springs and stuff like that right?


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Heads can boost compression very slightly, other then that theres not much you can do to raise compression other then dip into some fund for another block or build the block you currently have, heads are pretty expensive not like the original 5.0 motors where all whole setup is 2,000. The trick flow heads for the 2v are pricey and if your not installing them yourself its gonna be a pretty hefty labor charge ive heard guys pay from $500 all the way to $1500 for head install plus you want to have it tuned.
 
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