I don't really know much about motors and all that jazz, but how hard would it be to get 350 hp while staying NA?
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NA horse power
FORDY9ER
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At one time a Trick Flow kit with heads, cams and springs sold for $3,000 but I've heard the price has come down lately.
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There are others? LolNotedand other cams that love n20?
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I agree ive seen them for around that price but you can supercharger you car for $3000 which im sure you know i see your car is making plenty of power with the procharger, i do see he wants to be n/a but you cant hate on a blower
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350 at the crank is no problem on a 2v. Without getting into a completely new motor with higher compression, you can see around 320rwhp. I'm running an extreme setup with 13.7:1 CR, MHS Stage 3 heads, Stage 4.5 cams, etc. etc. I'm on a conservative tune with only 19 degrees of timing at this point looking to go up to 30 degrees and hoping for around 380rwhp on the dyno Nov. 9th.
I have my reasons for staying N/A, I'm building a car for road racing and I wanted to maintain less heat, weight, as well as maintain reliability in high stress situations, only way to do that is to stay N/A.
I have my reasons for staying N/A, I'm building a car for road racing and I wanted to maintain less heat, weight, as well as maintain reliability in high stress situations, only way to do that is to stay N/A.
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OP here is a thread from awhile back where a member asked almost the exact same question you asked in the first post. The thread went on for quite a bit so there is quite a bit of info in here http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/211802-wanna-get-more-power.html
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too expensive to make power like that or higher n/a in these 2v's. Boost or spray is the only way to go in these cars IMO.
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I agree you're gonna break the bank trying to make 350 n/a when you can buy a charger and safely and quite easily make 350 on a super safe tune judging by the mods he already has
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yep no doubt, I have a couple buddys who went n/a and seen many on here that are lucky to see 320-330whp from full bolt ons+head/cam packages, and install for that is ALOT higher than puttin a supercharger or nitrous kit on. With a kennebell or paxton/procharger/vortech (depending on trim) will get you 350-400whp all day with basic supporting mods. Only time I see head n cams workin great on 2v's if its built and they can shine with the blower or spray.
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fordy9er---what rear tires are on your car in the signature..they look mean on the car
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doesnt get much better than this for NA or a N20 2v...
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You wanna see what a na 2v can do. Check this out.
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/213923-cstreu1026s-all-motor-98gt-2.html
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/213923-cstreu1026s-all-motor-98gt-2.html
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For sure im going the blower route as soon as i get every bolt on possible lol, k member, coil overs, longtubes are next then ill be in the market for a d1sc. I like the n/a route but if you want power for money the charger is the way to go, or nitrous but i dont like having to fill the bottle all the time
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thats cheating... LOL
from my understanding OP will be using stock rotating assembly.
but yeah if OP wants to do full forged internals and stage 4+ cams and heads he could see 400, its possible.
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Oh wow. I missed a lot. I am running 295/35/18 BFGoodrich g-Forces for who ever asked lol (forgot the name)
And thanks guys for posting all the builds and videos! My plan is to get 350 all motor then 100 shot of nitrous if I am feeling ballsy :lol
I mean, I do plan on staying at 350, but honestly I'll get bored of it after a while and might get a built block and rotating assembly etc and then get FI. but if I ever do get a super charger, it will be last. Would all this stuff still work for FI? I know some heads and cams are built for just NA and some for FI. right?
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And thanks guys for posting all the builds and videos! My plan is to get 350 all motor then 100 shot of nitrous if I am feeling ballsy :lol
I mean, I do plan on staying at 350, but honestly I'll get bored of it after a while and might get a built block and rotating assembly etc and then get FI. but if I ever do get a super charger, it will be last. Would all this stuff still work for FI? I know some heads and cams are built for just NA and some for FI. right?
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thats my plan! :drink
you'll be done before though if you're planning to be done before this time next year... but really, if you are going to do 350 then spray, go with CMS cams, reputable members on here have had great experiences with them!
you cant really build for NA and Boost at the same time
so i'd do everything up the heads and cam and make sure... if you the Trick Flow heads (like you should) 38cc for NA is great but the 44cc will keep compression the same and be good for boost later. Keep in mind though a NA stage 2 cam is NOT as good as a stock PI cam or cam spec'd for boost. So you might keep your stockers or get new cams after boosting. Just as an FYI.
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That will be pretty much a completely wrong build for FI. You can run moderate boost with moderate compression 10-10.5, maybe even 11 compression ratio but adding boost to 12+ compression ratio will not work. Also the stage 3-4 cams leak boost out the exhaust vavle. Supercharger cams are ground differently than naturally aspirated cams.
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you might want to rethink your strategy. unless you're going to keep upping the shot of Nitrous you run, don't build an N/A motor expecting it to be able to handle Forced induction.
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IMO run stock longblock and spray it, will make 350 easy
that way it gets your need for speed of your plate and wont have to compromise between the fi and n/a
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Lol never had so many people quote me in a row :lol
In that case, I just won't go forced induction lol. I'll most likely be okay with 350 hp + 100 shot lol glad I got that cleared up. What is the weak part in running more boost? The rotating assembly?
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In that case, I just won't go forced induction lol. I'll most likely be okay with 350 hp + 100 shot lol glad I got that cleared up. What is the weak part in running more boost? The rotating assembly?
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Eagle, you copied my post lololol
OP said he wants 350... THEN spray and go to 450-500 which would be coolIMO run stock longblock and spray it, will make 350 easy
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