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DainBramaged

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Im sure this has been beat to death, but id like to ask a few questions. Ive been lurking for quite sometime. This will be my first push rod motor and rwd car. Ill be trying to pick up a fox for the spring, 91-93.

Use: Ill be going to the track with it, 1/4 passes. Also just driving it on the weekends. Not going to crazy yet, I like to take my time and learn the car first so my mods will be the follow poor man mods.

GT40P heads, I was going to ask if it would be worth shaving these down to bump comp? Also I know they could use a little port job, Ive done this before on my suby and did pretty well.

Stock HG's good?

I read alpha cams are out dated, but would like to keep it in the $250-$300 range. any recommendations?

Stock rearend, I may do 3:73, but this is just what I read. I will be highway driving it sometimes, only weekends, maybe during the week once. Will this work?

Explorer intake since its already matched to the gt40p heads, I read this could use a bit of porting.

Also long tubes vs shorties? Any major performance gains for the long tubes?

Roller rockers, Ive never really messed with a push rod motor. mainly OHC motors. 1.7s or 1.6s. I know this is a ratio number, still reading on what I would need. Again im a complete newb to push rod motors.

Clutch, was jsut going to do a stage 1, really any brand excluding ebay brands. Any suggestions?

Probably a ebay cold air.

X or H pipe, does it matter?

I will be looking to build the following tell me if I missed anything

Going for a notch or LX hatch, maybe even strip it from the front seats back.
GT40P heads (clean up/port)
Explorer Intake (clean/Port)
Cam reccomendation"?
Roller rockers?
91-93 bottom end (forged pistons correct?)
Long tubes/shorties
X/H pipe
Single chamber mufflers
5 speed / Clutch rec?
3:73 read end
Ebay cold air
Poly motor mount inserts
Cheap welds, Probably a fat/skinny combo
Decent tires dont need the best.

Again this is just going to be my spring project/fun car. Tired of the fwd/awd 4cyl stuff, it gets old after awhile. Plus what sounds as good as a cammed 5.0 haha. I do have about 8-10 years of modding. Have had a DSM, Suby, mazdas. Did a few successful motor rebuilds. I am 100% open to any and all advice, im going to go back to search function. My actually expectations are probably somewhere around it running 12.50's area. My spray it next year, but am trying to take it one step at a time.

Thanks guys!!!:)

---------- Post added at 03:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:52 PM ----------

Also just read I guess the stock sized MAF is a bit of a restriction? Also what size injectors for a setup like mine?

Again I am using the search, i know you forum junkies preach that haha. Just also looking for personal opinions.
 
On the gt40 heads dont spend too much on them. It's easy to run up the machine shop bill to the point you would be better off goin aluminum.

Explorer intake is a good budget choice but once again if you put too much money in port work you could get a used trick flow, eddy, or Holley for the same money.

For a budget cam a TFS1 is a good choice. For a little over $300 a custom cam can be had. So keep that in mind when shopping OTS cams.

Rocker ratio depends on the cam a bit I guess

87-92.5 engines are forged bottom ends

Long tubes net a few horses more but many people here think the compromise for the convenience of shorties far out weighs the small gain from Long tubes

X and H pipes make similar power with a lil different soun

Mufflers are preference, if you like chambered muffs look at Mac

A good budget clutch is a king cobra

3.73 gears are a good match in a 5 speed

A larger maf like 75mm and 24lb injectors would be a good idea

And one thing not mentioned is chassis
Sub frame connectors are a must as well as some kinds of rear control arms
Maybe some shocks and springs too
 
85-92.5 forged bottom end
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Ok I didnt even think of subframe connectors, those are weld in correct? Also didnt think of rear control arms.

Also I read the TFS1 cam was not good for gt40p heads, it didnt state why though. So that could just be BS im reading. Im trying to keep this years budget at about $5000 including the price of the car. I found a few foxes that are running for $2000-$3000 price range. I know I cant do all of the mentioned mods so i may drop a few. Or it may be doable with all used parts, I guess we will see.
 
It seems like a reasonable goal. Maybe can find one with some desired mods done. I have about that money in mine and I have everything you listed except the top end is trick flow.

Never heard of a tfs1 being bad for gt40's. it seems like a good street able all around performer to me....
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
You are probably right on the cam, though I know nothing about the flow characteristics of GT40P heads or the cam, just been googling the crap out of budget built 5.0L. Im not trying to set any records but mainly trying to learn and switch it up for myself. Im going to get a list together and post it on here and see if I am missing anything and then see if its attainable with my price.

To touch on the premodded cars, everytime, EVERYTIME, haha i buy a premodded car, its always done incorrectly and was rushed and ends up being a nightmare and i just get pissed off and sell it. It seems people want to mod cars but act like they only have 1 day to get it running. I will defintely look around for a premodded one, its always a bit cheaper than buy the parts individually.
 
Also I read the TFS1 cam was not good for gt40p heads, it didnt state why though. So that could just be BS im reading.
they could be talking about the valve springs specifically. I am not positive. but i have heard the valve springs on stock gt40 heads are junk, i hope someone with experience with the gt40 heads can support this also.
 
they could be talking about the valve springs specifically. I am not positive. but i have heard the valve springs on stock gt40 heads are junk, i hope someone with experience with the gt40 heads can support this also.
Yes, you need to upgrade the springs they will not support lift from a cam much bigger than a stock explorer cam. Plus, It is always a good idea to put new springs matched to a cam you are using anytime you buy a set of used heads because you have no way of knowing the condition of the springs regardless if they are stock are not unless you have a way to check spring tension. I would recommend getting the tfs spring kit, comes with all the hardware you need. If you feel confident in doing the porting yourself that combination will benefit greatly with a little exhaust porting, port matching, and bowl work. You will also need to check piston to valve clearance because it will be close with a tfs 1. If you go with this combination, you will have to go with either mac or bbk headers because they are the only ones known to consistently fit those heads without problems other than the FFRP ones. They will need to be unequal length with 90 degree boot wires and 1 5/8" primary tubes. You could also use longtubes if you want.

For roller rockers I would just get a set of pedestal mount roller rockers, 1.6 ratio. They will bolt on like factory with no machining required and you could probably find them pretty cheap. Also keep in mind that you may possibly need different length push rods depending on what cam you decide to go with, so budget for that.

Definitely go 3.73, you will never look back. You may actually gain a little mpg over stock city driving and only loose a few on highway. If you want to go cheap on suspension you could use 4 cylinder springs in the front and stock v8 rear with an air bag along with 10/90 struts and 50/50 shocks or just stock. This is proven to be a good inexpensive combo that works for drag racing. You will definitely want to upgrade rear control arms and reinforce torque boxes, as well as add sub frames. this is a must if you plan on running slicks at the track.

75mm MAF and 24lb injectors would be just fine for this combo, you will also want to get an upgraded throttle body too. If you want to go cheap the throttle body on a v8 explorer/mountaineer is 65mm. With some minor modifications you can make it work on a mustang and they can be had cheap.

Good luck!
 
You seem pretty spot on with your plans and goals. I do agree with everyone else on the heads though. Unless you get a really good deal on a set of gt40's it'll will be better off in the long run with some aluminums


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