If you are on street tires, you aren't necessarily "launching" per se. What I like to do is hold it around 3k and drop the clutch right to where it starts to grab and ride it out just enough to maintain traction to the tires. If you got a QTP or similar 26" bias ply, you'd be able to drop it from about anywhere and hook. Street tires take a bit more finessing if I'm not mistaken. You should be able to pull around ~2.0 60ft I'm guessing at least.
So riding the clutch will do it, but wouldn't that burn the s**t out of your clutch. I'm guessing it wouldn't last too long before it goes out.
But nitrous runs out and how much is a short block for the now 5.0?
Depends how much you ride the clutch. If your riding it down the track youll kill it quick, but a lil bit at the launch wont be horrible. Definitely avoid hot lapping if your riding the clutch a lot. You gotta pay to play, either for a clutch or better tires take your pick.
No because if you do it right, you ride it for less than 60ft, just until you can grab traction at full throttle. You only want to slip it out of the hole just to get the car moving and hook. Or just buy some new tires.
Not when it's available at the track.... And if you're meaning you have to pay per bottle.... It's true, you do.... But how much do you think it costs when something breaks/snaps/decided to put a hole in your wallet....How much do you think it costs to have a blower snout bolt taken off because it either was cross threaded or seized? How much for a new bov cause you want more(or less if you're :gay) power? And I know, I know, you can always upgrade nitrous kits and all that, but not as common as adding pulleys, meth, ect for boosted cars.
I think I might be buying a new set of tires.. there's a guy that has some for sale with 6/32 thread nitto nt555r's drag radials I believe 305 35 18 for $350 is that reasonable? Changing the clutch seems like a PITA so I rather swap tires than clutch.
No.
+1 Don't get drag radials. The sidewall is too stiff for a stick/stock rear boosted car. The sidewall doesn't flex like a slick (bias ply) so the shock goes straight through the drivetrain. You can blow up the 28 spline spider gears and such on a good launch. Look for some slicks, you'll be glad you did.
I wasnt thinkin the track I was think on the street. I DD my car and want the power there when I hit the gas. I dont want empty bottle keeping me from some fun.
I paid like $800 for my 555Rs new same size. Nittos site says 5/32 tread new so those should last a while. So its a great deal but they arent a great tire for the track. They hold 485hp/440tq on the street quite well though. I took em to the track once and had a best 60ft of 1.95, not great but not horrible either.
You've got it backwards man. Bias plys WILL NOT destroy axles, rear end, input shaft and DR's (drag radials) WILL. Bias plys have flex in the sidewall that take up some of that energy which is why they're a bit washier when driving down the track. DR's have a stiff sidewall so they can be daily driven but the sidewall does not flex enough, trasmitting a lot of the launch shock through the drivetrain.
I guess I'm ****ing stupid. So if I took my car to the track with slicks right now, I wouldn't break something?
That's right, its the rebounding action of the DR's, woops. I'd say that your chances of breaking **** are "slimmer" with a bias ply and higher with a DR.
That's kinda what I figured. I pretty much thought that the harder you launch, the more likely it is to break, regardless of the sidewall absorption.
