ive read a few threads on removing the stock catbacks, and most people say just to cut it. I dont want to cut it and find out that i could sell them for like $100 localy on craigslist or something (which i highly doubt, im sure their probably not worth anything), so that why i thought id ask you guys first. And if cutting is the best route, would it be easiest just to cut it with a torch?
cutting the catbacks, good idea or no?
fullmetal7777
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I always jack off the diff as well. Never busted a diff or seals even with my aluminum rear housing on my jeeps d44a axle. The 8.8 is a pretty tough rear end I doubt you'll dent anything
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I make sure the jack is not touching the cover at all. I know the possibilities, but I also wouldn't mind if I all of a sudden "needed" to get a girdle 
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Just got the pipes off, thanks a TON for that write up Ryan. Can I put the car back together now or should I wait till I get my catbacks in tomarrow? I figure I can assemble it easily with the car back together because it's two parts, but I'm just making sureAye aye, cap'n. Here's a great guide.
Steeda Ultralight lowering springs install (w/pics) - MustangForums.com
You'll want to use it up until this image:
![Image]()
That should get your axle low enough to rotate the over axle pipes and get them out. Obviously unbolting them from the midpipe will help also. I would use some boxes or something to support the end of the midpipe when you unbolt it so you don't put any undue pressure on the exhaust manifold flanges.
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Probably not a good idea to leave the axle hanging, even if supported, for too long. since it's only like 6 bolts I'd go ahead and put it back. Go ahead and torque them down, though. If you decide not to lower the axle again tomorrow you don't want to worry if you remembered to torque everything down or not. IIRC, the torque specs were posted in that guide. TAKE TORQUE SPECS SERIOUSLY. Especially on suspension. I'd bet that 70% of the time, NVH problems after an install are from bolts not being torqued properly.
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I remember how tight the stuff was, so the best I could probably do is tighten it to about what I though it was before? And take a rubber mallet to those shock spring bolts, because those bolts were on there tight as ****.
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Suck it up, man. Torque wrenches have long handles for a reason. Use the torque specs and do it right or just go ahead and set aside time later to torque everything down again when everything is popping and squeaking. There's a reason they're all on so tight. You may save yourself 20 minutes or so of struggling, but it could save you a few hours later or worse, your rear end.
How pissed would you be if your rear shock bolts backed themselves out and your car slammed down on your tires? That would be a worst case scenario, but it's not impossible.
Incidentally, I swear that "as tight as you thought it was before" isn't nearly as tight as the torque spec. There were a few bolts I remember thinking were going to make my head explode and they were still 20 ft/lbs. off.
---------- Post added at 04:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:35 PM ----------
Also...
Giggity...?
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---------- Post added at 04:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:35 PM ----------
[/COLOR]Also...
Giggity...?[/QUOTE]
Knew someone was going to notice that
[/COLOR]Also...
Giggity...?[/QUOTE]
Knew someone was going to notice that
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I don't think I have a torque wrench.. Or know what that is haha can I just pick one up at Home Depot?
---------- Post added at 05:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:57 PM ----------
Ill probly get one from harbor freight, $20 isn't bad. So 129pounds of torque for the spring bolt then and it's good right?
---------- Post added at 05:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:57 PM ----------
Ill probly get one from harbor freight, $20 isn't bad. So 129pounds of torque for the spring bolt then and it's good right?
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You can get one at Autozone. You'll need it often as you continue your modding journey, so don't buy the cheapest one they have.
I was wrong on the shock bolt; it's only 89 ft/lbs. The following link may be the most valuable online resource you will ever find for your Mustang. I would bookmark the root page of this. Here's the torque specs page from the Ford workshop manual.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=62&viewfile=SPECIFICATIONS.pdf
Sent from AutoGuide.com App
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Now all I needa do is learn the names of what all that is haha thanks for the link, that's awesome
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All of them haha but if the names stated in the write up I used match up to the link you just mave me (which I m pretty sure they will) then I should be ok.
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Just got a bigass torque wrench from autozone, I'm excited to use it lol
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Haha I snapped something on the inside of my autozone t wrench. Had to get a crossmember on my Jeep set to 180 ftlbs... wrench was supposedly good upto like 210 but it **** itself and doesn't work now
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Wtf, thanks for telling me now after I bought it lolol I got the $30 one that's good up to 150, I figured that would be fine. Guess will find out
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Highlighted ones (with added pics from guide) are the ones you need to know for this purpose.
rear shock absorber upper nut = shock nut inside trunk under the carpet
rear shock absorber lower bolt = shock bolt in wheel well that you had to loosen to drop the axle
lower arm-to-body bolt = the bolt that connects the lower control arm to the body
brake caliper anchor plate bolts = bolts that holt the caliper in place
lower arm-to-axle bolt = the bolt that connects the lower control arm to the body
pan hard rod-to-body bolt = the bolt that connects the panhard rod to the body
pan hard rod-to-axle bolt = the bolt that connects the panhard rod to the axle
lateral stiffener bar-to-body mount nut = i imagine these are the panhard brace nuts
lateral stiffener bar-to-body bolts = panhard brace bolt
stabilizer bar bracket nuts = nuts that hold the sway bar bracket (shaped like a U) in place
stabilizer bar link bolts = bolts that attach the sway bar through the drop/end links
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