miss at 3500 under load...

REBELPONY · Oct 15, 2007

I did notice one thing:

in all the books I see the #1 position on the cap is pointing toward the #6 cylinder.... on mine its pointing toward the #2 cylinder (as it was when I pulled it) when #1 is at TDC. I dont see how this would make a difference as long as the wires are in the right order and #1 fires when it points to it... but.....

Im going to put it right when I get home regardless.

ALSO:

When Im setting the timing on this thing to 10deg, should I be diconnecting everything?

I know to get TDC you have to pull and jump the yellow and black wires, but I want to be sure Im doing it right and not botching it.

I hook the timing light (standard, not an advace timing light) to #1
point at the timing tab / harmonic balancer
the mark is right where the 10 deg mark is.

Should I be setting for TDC and letting the computer do it from there?

Jeeesh, I long for an edelbrock 850 and MSD ignition right now.....

Daniel :rockon

1slo5.0 · Oct 15, 2007

DRFDIGGER said:
I did notice one thing:

in all the books I see the #1 position on the cap is pointing toward the #6 cylinder.... on mine its pointing toward the #2 cylinder (as it was when I pulled it) when #1 is at TDC. I dont see how this would make a difference as long as the wires are in the right order and #1 fires when it points to it... but.....

Im going to put it right when I get home regardless.

ALSO:

When Im setting the timing on this thing to 10deg, should I be diconnecting everything?

I know to get TDC you have to pull and jump the yellow and black wires, but I want to be sure Im doing it right and not botching it.

I hook the timing light (standard, not an advace timing light) to #1
point at the timing tab / harmonic balancer
the mark is right where the 10 deg mark is.

Should I be setting for TDC and letting the computer do it from there?

Jeeesh, I long for an edelbrock 850 and MSD ignition right now.....

Daniel :rockon

I don't know why they show cap locations in the books. Where the wires are on the cap is directly related to how the distributor is installed. You need to disconnect the spout connector when you set the timing and then plug it back in when your done.

An 850 and an MSD ignition isn't going to help you at all......

REBELPONY · Oct 15, 2007

Darrell said:
An 850 and an MSD ignition isn't going to help you at all......

I just mean if this car were carburated and the distributor vaccum advanced I could adjust it out. It aggrevates me that I cant adjust the damn thing or get different spring rates.
With this thing its either replace it or live with it. It takes out the mechanic and replaces him with a parts changer. GRRR.

<OK venting complete>

I figured the cap wouldnt make a difference. but thought Id make sure since Im having issues that it wasnt something that simple (a-HEM MAP sensor...a-HEM)...

Which one is the "spout" connector? the one going into the module? or the one thats got a factory jumper in it?

1slo5.0 · Oct 15, 2007

DRFDIGGER said:
Darrell said:

An 850 and an MSD ignition isn't going to help you at all......

Click to expand...

I just mean if this car were carburated and the distributor vaccum advanced I could adjust it out. It aggrevates me that I cant adjust the damn thing or get different spring rates.
With this thing its either replace it or live with it. It takes out the mechanic and replaces him with a parts changer. GRRR.

<OK venting complete>

I figured the cap wouldnt make a difference. but thought Id make sure since Im having issues that it wasnt something that simple (a-HEM MAP sensor...a-HEM)...

Which one is the "spout" connector? the one going into the module? or the one thats got a factory jumper in it?

The system you have now is much better than a carburetor and a vacuum advance. You just need to learn how it works. The spout connector is connected to the ignition module.

REBELPONY · Oct 15, 2007

Thanks Darrell. I will set it properly tonight and see what happens. uggh.

Yeah I thought the EFI was the way to go too, Im actually tired of carbs and springs and smelling like gas all the time. Just would be fixed by now if it was the oldschool...

Thanks again, Ill post up progress. :usa

Daniel :rockon

vfast · Oct 15, 2007

3 other poss.
1. timing chain worn
2. what is your fuel pressure?
3.valve springs?

REBELPONY · Oct 16, 2007

vfast said:
3 other poss.
1. timing chain worn
2. what is your fuel pressure?
3.valve springs?

Engine was a short block replacement about 200 miles before I got it....

Valve springs: new
Timing chain: new
Fuel Pressure: Not sure, but pump, regulator, and filter are new...had to patch part of the lines with rubber hose for temporary fix, but I dont think thats an issue....

Heres the issue now....

Lost the pinion bearing this afternoon. Its been howling for a while, and today it finally went.

it didnt destroy anything but itself for now, I will open it up tomorrow and see for sure. :rockon

so I didnt set the timing tonight, but as soon as I get the rear end squared away Ill get er done.

Im thinking it'll get fixed when I set the timing properly ... :laughat

If I can get it back together enough to set it down and set the timig I will, but no difinitive answer till I can drive it....and that aint happening till the rear end is GTG.

Thanks everyone especially Darrell for your help, and Ill keep you posted as soon as I have something to post.

miss at 3500 under load...

REBELPONY

1slo5.0

REBELPONY

1slo5.0

REBELPONY

vfast

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