I should only be putting down around 310 hp. I'm a broke college student and as many of you know i am in the middle of pulling my tranny and installing long tubes. What clutch should i go w/? I can simply get my flywheel and pressure plate turned, can't i. So all i really need is a clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool, right? Or do i need to get a new pressure plate also?
Clutch options... Cheap.. yet effective.
Slowbra_12
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I should only be putting down around 310 hp. I'm a broke college student and as many of you know i am in the middle of pulling my tranny and installing long tubes. What clutch should i go w/? I can simply get my flywheel and pressure plate turned, can't i. So all i really need is a clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool, right? Or do i need to get a new pressure plate also?
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31,500 Posts
I'd got with the King Cobra.......
I unfortunately couldn't afford it this time around, and know I'm gonna regret it in the future. I had one in my 5.0 and it was awesome. Stiff as hell, but she grabbed like a 6 month old reaching for mommies nipple.
Seeing as ur doing the labor urself, u can get one for under 200...
I unfortunately couldn't afford it this time around, and know I'm gonna regret it in the future. I had one in my 5.0 and it was awesome. Stiff as hell, but she grabbed like a 6 month old reaching for mommies nipple.
Seeing as ur doing the labor urself, u can get one for under 200...
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7,085 Posts
The Spec clutches are relatively inexpensive. I had one in my old Z/28 and my buddy has one in his '02 GT and no problems whatsoever.
They are a good clutch that grabs hard and the price is fair compared to most other performance clutches that I've seen. The Spec2 or 3 would be a good place to start looking, but the 2+ and 3+ are a little more expensive, but are rated to hold a little more.
They are a good clutch that grabs hard and the price is fair compared to most other performance clutches that I've seen. The Spec2 or 3 would be a good place to start looking, but the 2+ and 3+ are a little more expensive, but are rated to hold a little more.
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689 Posts
haven't heard much good things about the king cobra, why not just spend 100 bucks more and get the spec stage 1
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15,802 Posts
I absolutely hate my King Cobra, but it will work for your combo!
You can see the power Im makin in my sig. Ive done numerous burnouts and donuts.
I have a KC and have no complaints. Factory power levels dont need anything that heavy duty. But if you plaining on 310hp,a KC should do you right.Its a little bit stiffer than stock after you break it in.
Clutches are like cars. One guy says his Ford gave him nothing but trouble ,while his Toyota gave him zero problems. Ask the next guy and he will say the opposite.
I have a KC and have no complaints. Factory power levels dont need anything that heavy duty. But if you plaining on 310hp,a KC should do you right.Its a little bit stiffer than stock after you break it in.
Clutches are like cars. One guy says his Ford gave him nothing but trouble ,while his Toyota gave him zero problems. Ask the next guy and he will say the opposite.
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15,802 Posts
Fryrice said:
yeah i like how you say they are like cars!
But let me tell you a KC in mycar is stiffer than hell. Ask TheBusher. He has a stock clutch and i have a king cobra and lets just say i just aobut put my foot through the floorboard when driving his car!
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its been in for easily 7-8 months, but only around 2000 miles( VERY HARD MILES)
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3,861 Posts
This is a good thread for me.. I just got my 97 GT, and the throw out bearings are shot in it..
so might as well put in a new clutch while im at it..
its almost completely stock, with the exception of a BBK CAI.
I can get the stock clutch from NAPA at about $180.00 but should i go with a spec clutch, or something else? I want to be able to drive it hard, but not have a stiffer than hell clutch for daily driving.. what would you recommend? Since the car is mostly stock, it wont need to handle much, just mostly bolt ons in the future.
so might as well put in a new clutch while im at it..
its almost completely stock, with the exception of a BBK CAI.
I can get the stock clutch from NAPA at about $180.00 but should i go with a spec clutch, or something else? I want to be able to drive it hard, but not have a stiffer than hell clutch for daily driving.. what would you recommend? Since the car is mostly stock, it wont need to handle much, just mostly bolt ons in the future.
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87 Posts
I wound up goin w/ the spec stage I. It's rated to handle 450 ft/lbs of torque. I'm not planning on putting more to the ground due to a shortage of money. lol. I paid 180 bucks shipped to my door. That's a pretty good deal right?
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87 Posts
What's a TB?
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1,422 Posts
throw out bearing
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87 Posts
97GT4.6 said:
Wish i could tell ya! I just ordered it and my motor/tranny is sittin on the ground. THe tranny is awaiting a rebuild and the motor is looking at a set of hooker longtubes!!! MAn i'm spendin some cash.... oh i just bought a set of deepdish's too. I got a GREAT deal on all my stuff though
YUP... the kit comes w/ a new TB and Pilot bearing.
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5,338 Posts
I bought the FRPP King Cobra clutch kit from http://www.ddperformance.com/ford clutches.htm and I haven't had any problems in about 1 year and 6,000 miles on a modded PI. The PN# is C107 with the 10T disc for $179.
And I have run this clutch hard with numerous 1/8 and 1/4 mile passes.
FWIW, The FRPP KC clutch kit is a reboxed Valeo HD clutch kit.
Oh, and you should be able to get your stock flywheel turned for $20-$25 if it's still in spec.
And I have run this clutch hard with numerous 1/8 and 1/4 mile passes.
FWIW, The FRPP KC clutch kit is a reboxed Valeo HD clutch kit.
Oh, and you should be able to get your stock flywheel turned for $20-$25 if it's still in spec.
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3,861 Posts
Damn, so many clutches lol.. most seem to be around the same price, the stock ford clutch, the spec1 clutch, and the king cobra clutch.. matt says he hates his lol..
so when you buy a clutch, it comes with the TO bearings, or does it depend on what you buy?
What else would I need to buy when I replace the T.O bearings and clutch?
so when you buy a clutch, it comes with the TO bearings, or does it depend on what you buy?
What else would I need to buy when I replace the T.O bearings and clutch?
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