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#21 ·
why did u bump? what more do ya want 2 know?
 
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Discussion starter · #22 ·
I just wondered if anyone had any recommendations from their own experiences. What was a bitch to get off? What did you forget to disconnect? What all did you remove to make life easier (hood, radiator, accessories, etc)?

What rebuild kit would someone recommend? Any particular work or machining I should consider while it's out?

Ya know, I'm looking for the revelations you had AFTER spending a weekend or two busting your hump on it.
 
#23 ·
would you consider stroking the motor/???[/list]
 
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
jordan said:
would you consider stroking the motor/???[/list]
Click to expand...
Sadly, no. Since I just bought another vehicle, the cash funds are tapped out. Considering I have to buy the hoist, stand, gaskets (again) and maybe the rebuild kit, I can't entertain stroking it. Assuming I don't have to buy a new block or machine the current block and/or heads or get new pistons or . . . or . . . or. . .
 
#25 ·
you can pull it with the hood on, i've done it and theres a video out there of a guy pulling his w/ hood on..also leave tranny in when do it..makes it easier but can be done too w/ it on..but then hood has to be taken off..
 
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#27 ·
mikebert said:
That's good to know that you can leave the hood on. I'd much rather do it that way because holding that huge thing up and trying to align back to the original spot does not sound like fun.
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its not that hard i did it by myself with the stock hood a couple times
 
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#28 ·
jordan said:
mikebert said:
That's good to know that you can leave the hood on. I'd much rather do it that way because holding that huge thing up and trying to align back to the original spot does not sound like fun.
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its not that hard i did it by myself with the stock hood a couple times
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its not fun putting the stock hood back on by yourself..epecially w/ wrong bolts :D
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Well, I just picked up a 2 ton folding hoist for $125 used. w00t. Guess I'll get cracking on this pretty soon. How special are the bolts used to hold the engine to the stand? Where can I find them?
 
#33 ·
mikebert said:
Well, I just picked up a 2 ton folding hoist for $125 used. w00t. Guess I'll get cracking on this pretty soon. How special are the bolts used to hold the engine to the stand? Where can I find them?
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i'd use headbolts!!!
 
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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Really? I have never pulled the bell housing bolts, so I don't have any idea what size they are.

EDIT: I know that may sound like I don't know what I'm saying, but . . . what I meant was, I haven't taken the bell housing bolts off, so I didn't know how similar in size or thread they are to headbolts.
 
#35 ·
mikebert said:
Really? I have never pulled the bell housing bolts, so I don't have any idea what size they are.

EDIT: I know that may sound like I don't know what I'm saying, but . . . what I meant was, I haven't taken the bell housing bolts off, so I didn't know how similar in size or thread they are to headbolts.
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headbolts are eaither 5/8 or 3/4 which is good size..i think bellhousing bolts are 5/8
 
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#36 ·
jordan said:
mikebert said:
That's good to know that you can leave the hood on. I'd much rather do it that way because holding that huge thing up and trying to align back to the original spot does not sound like fun.
Click to expand...
its not that hard i did it by myself with the stock hood a couple times
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I have too and it really isnt that hard to get it lined back up.....just draw an outline of where the hinges are on the hood like someone said earlier....i think from the way it sounds that the hood is the last of your worries
 
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#37 ·
dude my car is my only source of trans for me other than a dodge( way worse than your chevy) truck on 39s with 12 inches of lift. no fun to drive. that being said i spun a rod bearing two weeks ago and replaced the motor with a salvage yard motor ( don't do this) just for now till i finish my stroker. first take the trans out it is so much easier. also take the hood off. it only takes one wrong move and you have a dented hood. besides it lets more light into your workspace. the trans if you have a five speed is very easy to get out. if you need help message me at any time. cooling is also a must to pull. no need to damage a radiator and you can use the added room. it seriously took me and one friend 3.5 hours out, three hours to dress the motor with the accessories, and 3 hour back in and running. i under stand your frustrations. after spending $170 long blocking a salvage motor and a week of nights after work till 10 o clock, i ended up swapping out the heads yesterday cause it was smoking under hard acceleration. like i said if you have any questions, shoot me a message anytime and i will be glad to help. good luck bro!
 
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
Hey man, I appreciate the insight. I haven't started to tackle this yet (tune up the truck - P.S., I still haven't found the spark plugs. 2.2L Chevy, wtf?) but I'm going to get cracking on it soon. I think I can pop the hood back and stand it straight up, then get this huge hoist in there and lift her out. I figure with no upper intake I should be able to choke down on the engine and have enough room to get it our without any issue. We'll see, but maybe I can avoid taking the trans out because I really don't have a need to take it out at the moment and I don't feel like messing with it.

I could very well have some questions for you, but they may come a while down the road because getting a job takes precedence over the car right now (actually, getting money takes precedence and I heard jobs give that stuff out, but who knows). So yeah, I appreciate it, but if you don't hear from me for a little while, I'm just busy elsewhere.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Since I just pulled the engine and I still smell like grease, I scribble down my experience for anyone else out there wanting to know about this. Like the book says, drain the oil and coolant systems, yank the radiator, fan and air cleaner assembly, disconnect throttle linkages, vacuum lines electrical connections on top of the engine and especially the two grounds. Here are the tricky bits:

  1. There are sets of wires that are attached to the engine but do not connect to the engine. Look around the front passenger side corner for these guys running around the front of the engine and back down the side. Unbolt the brackets holding them to the engine.
  2. When you drain the oil, you don't have to take off the filter. But make sure to remove the low oil sensor. It's in the rear sump, by the plug, on the driver's side vertical face. Just take a pair of channel locks or something similar and unscrew the large hexagonal plug the sensor sits in.
  3. When you take the starter off, remove the bracket above it that bolts to the block. I did this much later after I bent it against the motor mount with the engine in the air.
  4. You don't have to take the headers off the exhaust system, but just make sure they stay back and out of the way of the engine.
  5. I took my AC lines off because the system is empty. You may have to get more creative.
  6. I took the PS pump off and unbolted the bracket holding the PS line to the fenderwell. That gave me plenty of room to put a jackstand under the pump (keep it all the way forward, out of the way of the engine but upright and not straining the line) then I tied it off car body so it didn't fall.
  7. You need to get a jack under the transmission, along with a piece of wood under the transmission. Don't just hold the transmission in the original place, jack it up a half inch or so to help slide the engine off the input shaft.

That's all I can think of right now. Good luck.
 
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