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Discussion starter · #22 ·
So carb, fuel pump, gas tank all back in and car running.

Know anything about using a intake/carb adapter to switch from 2v to 4v on a 2v intake? see pic...

Just wondering if this would be a step to the 4v carb or 4v intake so I could buy whichever I can get a good deal on 1st without having to buy all at once.
 
#23 ·
You really are better off just getting both 4v parts at once. If you have to choose, get the intake first, its more of a pain to install. Swapping a carb later is easy. Take note however, that adapter is pretty think, it may cause you to have hood clearance issues.

If you know a good welder that can do cast aluminum by you I have an Edelbrock RPM intake I'll let you have super cheap. shipping might suck but it'll be better then buying a new intake. It has a small crack on the intake water port, I JB welded it up and it worked ok. I would recommend sanding the JB weld off and having it professionally fixed.

Let me know if you want it and we can work it out, its just taking up space here.


Untitled by Edgethis, on Flickr

---------- Post added at 10:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:22 AM ----------

Since I'm digging around under my car, does your sending unit look like this?


Untitled by Edgethis, on Flickr
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
yes that looks like the same sending unit...

ok, so this AM car wouldn't start... the NEW fuel pump already broke... so I pulled it off and put the original back on... it is working fine. I took a look at my fuel tank filler hose and notice it is start to split which gets me thinking... I could barely get the neck to the tank cause this hose was so short... so upon further checking I now realize that this spare tank is 3 inches SHORTER than the original. UGH! So I guess I'll be cleaning the original to put it back in... someday,

The NEW frustration is that after all this, I can't get the ting to start again.
I can see gas shooting out the jets so I have fuel to the carb and it was running before the fuel pump crashed but I can't get it to start... it just cranks and cranks... I have spark at the coil and the distrib and even checked a couple plug wires... all is good...

So HELP! What could have randomly changed? I'm thinking maybe it is like a kill switch wire randomly moved and grounding and causing the problem?
 
#25 ·
Well if you have spark and fuel only thing left is timing. Is it cold up there? The choke may not be working. There were a few mornings when I was in WV that I had to jump a hot lead to the choke and then the car would fire up no problem.

I agve up on mechanical pumps and went with an electric fuel pump as you can see in that one picture.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
temp is 40-60's today... just can't understand it... timing shouldn't have changed, distrib is tight and never touched it... with the spark at the plug I can't see the pertronix II being a problem... stumped... it acts like there is no fire/gas, but there is both.

---------- Post added at 05:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:16 PM ----------

I had to turn the choke as far to right as it would go, which open the butterfly wide open. pumped the gas pedal several times and it started. Ran it 20 minutes, made a couple changes to choke moved it to center, ran 5 minutes turn off, try restart with no pedal pump... wont start. hold pedal to floor, starts.
 
#27 ·
Damn choke lol. I actually went through 2 different Pertronics set-ups before I wised up and put in a Duraspark distributor out of a 85 Mustang. No spacing to worry about, I hooked the 2 wires from it to my MSD box and bam, haven't had an ignition issue since.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Wouldnt start again yesterday... but tired of messing with the choke, so will take some time to read through my book again for my '68 on how to adjust the choke properly.

Does switching to an electric choke eliminate having to adjust and tweak the choke? Like install and go, with no hassle adjustments?
 
#29 ·
It is supposed to work like that. I didn't have much experience with carbs prior to this car so I learned as I went.

I connected my elect choke lead to the STATOR terminal on the alternator, Ford did this for years on OEM models with elect choke so I figured WTH. However, edelbrock said not to use this terminal.....I had a few issues as mentioned before, thought when I jump the choke lead to the pos battery terminal the car fired up no problem.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I know very little myself and for $30 I can get an electric choke off ebay... but from the looks of it, it doesn't replace the screw adjustments for the lower (I think my book calls this fast idle?) and the upper for the butterfly.

I also learned that when I put the breather cover on it drastically reduces the rpm, so had to bump the idle screw to keep it from dying with it on.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Its when I put the breather hose on the air cleaner. I did have it set at like 800 rpm with the air cleaner/breather off, but I'd have to check it again now because I increased idle screw nearly a full turn so it wouldn't die when all hooked up.

It doesn't happen when just the air cleaner is on... it's when I hook up the breather hose from valve cover... which makes me think I also havent checked the pcv valve on the other cover that leads to carb spacer, but it is hooked up.
 
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