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1996 GT's Engine Build 2.0

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Discussion starter · #101 ·
Technically speaking no, H beams are stronger. I beams are lighter though and these will still withstand 750hp. Idealy a strong I beam is the best but h beams are more easy to make stronger. My crank is whats going to limit me at about 600hp but thatsvfine because I highly doubtbill ever see that.

Oh and yeah Jim hooked me up, everythings from CMS except the gaskets, those are from rock auto.

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---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 AM ----------

As another update, crank, pistons, rods, bearings ect are all going to the machine shop to get balanced today.
 
#102 ·
1996 GT said:
Technically speaking no, H beams are stronger. I beams are lighter though and these will still withstand 750hp. Idealy a strong I beam is the best but h beams are more easy to make stronger. My crank is whats going to limit me at about 600hp but thatsvfine because I highly doubtbill ever see that.

Oh and yeah Jim hooked me up, everythings from CMS except the gaskets, those are from rock auto.

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---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 AM ----------

As another update, crank, pistons, rods, bearings ect are all going to the machine shop to get balanced today.
Click to expand...
Everyone always say stock cranks fail at 600. But i have yet to see someone prove it. But yea getting that kinda power would be ridiculous anyway, im sure you would be more then happy with 600 haha.
Is the machine shop assembling your block for you?
 
Discussion starter · #103 ·
jgib4 said:
Everyone always say stock cranks fail at 600. But i have yet to see someone prove it. But yea getting that kinda power would be ridiculous anyway, im sure you would be more then happy with 600 haha.
Is the machine shop assembling your block for you?
Click to expand...
Yeah, 600 would be way more then enough hahahah. It would be boosted and on e85 at that point. :lol

As for someone assembling my short block, it will be by me and my dad. My dad used to be a tech and has restored many, many cars before. Although he's never done a modular.

So you guys better prepare for my question asking to start next week lol
 
#104 ·
1996 GT said:
Yeah, 600 would be way more then enough hahahah. It would be boosted and on e85 at that point. :lol

As for someone assembling my short block, it will be by me and my dad. My dad used to be a tech and has restored many, many cars before. Although he's never done a modular.

So you guys better prepare for my question asking to start next week lol
Click to expand...

That is beyond me buddy. Il try and look stuff up for you to see what i can find though.
 
#105 ·
Not too hard to assemble a block with the right equipment. Im also running a stock crank and I haven't heard of someone breaking one due to high hp, I'm guessing the 600hp is a number that comes from Ford. Get that thing assembled and get some fi!!
 
Discussion starter · #106 ·
jgib4 said:
That is beyond me buddy. Il try and look stuff up for you to see what i can find though.
Click to expand...
Hahahah thanks bro!

xandraxal said:
Not too hard to assemble a block with the right equipment. Im also running a stock crank and I haven't heard of someone breaking one due to high hp, I'm guessing the 600hp is a number that comes from Ford. Get that thing assembled and get some fi!!
Click to expand...
Yeah thats what I'm assuming too. All my parts should be back by tomorrow from the machine shop. I have pretty much every tool for the most part. Dial indicator, plasti gauge, torque wrench, hanes manual for the torque specs and what not.
 
Discussion starter · #107 ·
Depending on how busy I am next week, I'll be starting the assembly of the engine.

Now, what fluid do you recommend for a stone deglazer for a cleaning hone?

Also, where have you guys found piston ring filers? I've had no luck around here. Xandraxal, Did you have to do a lot of filing to get yours in spec when you ordered yours?
 
Discussion starter · #108 ·
For those that have used ARP mains. These are studs, I can use these to plasti gauge correct? Also, when torquing them with the ARP studs, ARP says to factory spec and it says to do x ft lbs and turn 90 additional degrees. Is this still true with the ARP studs?

Another thing, the Haynes manual says specs 1997-1998 4.6 Engine code X. Does that still apply for my 1996?
 
#109 ·
When using ARP studs for mains, you should have the block line honed with the caps torqued down.(50-60ft lbs is what ive heard)
Studs MAY cause some out of round conditions that will destroy/shorten bearing life.
After that you can check clearances with plastigage.
As for ring filing;

 
Discussion starter · #110 ·
8111870 said:
When using ARP studs for mains, you should have the block line honed with the caps torqued down.(50-60ft lbs is what ive heard)
Studs MAY cause some out of round conditions that will destroy/shorten bearing life.
After that you can check clearances with plastigage.
As for ring filing;

Click to expand...
Thanks! I ended up getting a filer from a guy at work. I'll plastigauge it in three different spots if I have to but I don't want to get it line honed.

Why would studs make it more out of round then using stock bolts?
 
#111 ·
Clamping force is much greater. ARP used to have the line hone as part of the install instructions.
Again, im going from what I have read when researching parts for my build.
I just got stock bolts in the end.
 
Discussion starter · #112 ·
Yeah I was checking that as you mentioned, im going to plati gauge it and see how they sit. If theyre out of spec ill get a line hone or stock bolts, if its in spec and the crank turns nicely ill run them.

From lots of reading online mainly guys that are pure racecars get them honed, most guys using street cars dont hone and have had great results. Some people said theyve used them multiple times without a hone on several different engine without an issue.

Aslong as my tolerances are in spec im not going to worry about it. 60flbs it not a lot of torque and should make those solid caps tweek, but you never know.

Thank you for the input, its very helpful.

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#113 ·
Plastigage is great for what it is, but you should not rely on it for exact specs.
If you want piece of mind, at least measure with bore gauge and mic. Plasigage is too vague to trust a motor to.
This is where oil pressure for the motor gets built.
 
Discussion starter · #114 ·
So I was looking at my rods tonight, and noticed the machine shop machined the side face between the rods. I believe its called the thrust face? Might be a stupid question but is that normal?

They also did some balancing on the bottom too, but not sure if they machined with that or just cleaned them up?

Just one of those random question, thanks guys.
 
#116 ·
Wish i had answers for the last two ?s but :dunno
If you ordered all this from Jim i would shoot him a pm just to double check, i am sure he would know.
 
Discussion starter · #118 ·
Went back to machine shop today, problem solved lol. If I get time after finishing my school work I'll finish installing the crank tonight.

Oh I also did a deglazing hone. Slowly coming together, I'll post pictures in a little bit. I have a week off of school coming up so hopefully I can get the engine back together, then have it running by mid march and tuned by the beginning of April. Snow and salt doesn't usually dissapear until around that time up here.
 
Discussion starter · #119 ·
Sorry its been so long guys, schools killing me.

Anyways got the crank in yesterday. all torqued and measured and what not. Turned out really well, spins absolutely perfect and smooth. Next step is to gauge all the rods today and do rings. Then tomorrow if everything goes to plan I'll essentially have the shortblock together.

Is there suppose to be a gasket between the oil pump and block?
 
#120 ·
When I worked in the performance marine industry, the company I worked for built an entire line of custom engines in horsepower ratings from 620-1400. Everything 900hp and below got Manley H-beam rods unless a customer upgraded to Carillo. I never saw a connecting rod failure that wasn't cause by something else in the engine. That being said, Manley H-beams are a solid choice for any engine.

I do have a bent Manley rod from a 620 that went under water while running. Both engines took on water while running and trashed nearly every rod in there. Quite the paper weight, it always brings out puzzled faces when it is spotted for the first time. 540ci of BBC cannot compress water!
 
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