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60 foots 1.54-1.6x

mid 400s rwhp

stock rear springs
Strange single adjustable shocks set on 6 settings from full soft
Ford 9 inch rear from Strange, Detroit Locker diff with 4.11 gear
UPR adjustable upper control arms with heim joints
Max Motorsports XD non adjustable LCAs with heim joints on both sides
MT ET Street Radials 275/60/15 on 15 X 8 Weld Draglites
Saxman, that's a nice 60 on those MT ET's, I'm encouraged because I'm planning to move to those, I'm looking at the 275/50/15's to stay at a 26" diameter.

How were you heating them at the strip, a full burn out or just a spin to clean them off?

Have you hit them hard on the street, how do they work there?
 
Ebach lowering springs in the back rest is stock, coil overs with 14 175 spring in front . Launching at 3500 with 3:27 gear . Yes it was a stick but just swapped to an auto with 3200 stall. If the car was n/a I think it would launch better it is when the boost kick in problems start. I'm going to do uppers and lowers in the back with Arb this spring.
Ditch those springs man, they are probly unloading when you come into boost. Probly dont need a arb unless you are really squatting the right rear and i dont think you hookin hard enough to do that.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Ditch those springs man, they are probly unloading when you come into boost. Probly dont need a arb unless you are really squatting the right rear and i dont think you hookin hard enough to do that.
Arb is what team z and upr recormended. The car will soon be in the mid to low 600 s leaving on trans break.
 
Saxman, that's a nice 60 on those MT ET's, I'm encouraged because I'm planning to move to those, I'm looking at the 275/50/15's to stay at a 26" diameter.

How were you heating them at the strip, a full burn out or just a spin to clean them off?

Have you hit them hard on the street, how do they work there?
Full burnout - wait until I see smoke and count to 3 - they don't like a long burnout.

Traction on the street is excellent, especially once I put the Detroit Locker diff in.
 
Not really a drag setup, but a daily driver setup. FRPP uppers, MM HD lowers, Steeda sport springs, Bilstein HD shocks. Paired with a set of 15x8 Weld Prostars and 275/50/15 BFG drag radials has been good enough for consistent 1.67-1.71 60fts slipping the clutch from 4k rpm with 361rwhp and 4.10's.
 
UPR solid lowers, boxed uppers with aluminum sphericals, Afco double adjustables out back with Hoosier 28x11.50 QTPs. 1.51 60' leaving at 5500 RPM on the two step. Stock motor, stock tune w/ 125 shot.
 
Lowered and everything else is stock in the back.

1.65 60' on a drag radial.
One thing fortunate about the Mustang rear suspension geometry-

At the stock ride height the geometry is not so good for drag racing, the instant center is too far forward and too high which makes the car prone to squat the rear and have wheel hop problems.

However it turns out that lowering the rear suspension with shorter springs by at least an inch improves this geometry by moving the instant center back, it doesn't make it perfect but it makes it a lot better.

So a low buck ticket to get your Mustang to hook pretty well is a set of poly bushing LCA's and springs that lower the rear at least an inch, Hickrocket, it looks like this approach is working well for your car.
 
Something is very wrong if you are getting 2.2 60ft times with slicks. It could be your burnout technique, as you said. A line lock should be #1 on your list. See what that does to your 60 ft before you start throwing suspension parts at the problem. You should be able to dip into the 1.5s with the stock suspension and slicks.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Something is very wrong if you are getting 2.2 60ft times with slicks. It could be your burnout technique, as you said. A line lock should be #1 on your list. See what that does to your 60 ft before you start throwing suspension parts at the problem. You should be able to dip into the 1.5s with the stock suspension and slicks.
Ya I pretty much couldn't get a good burnout. I'm hoping with being auto now I can foot break it and heat them up good. I'm going to go a couple times to test and tune once I get car retuned and tracks open, and see what it 60s before I do anything.
 
What tire pressure are you running? You should be hooking better that that even with no heat in the tire just a simple clean off. How old are the slicks? Dry rotted?
+1 I was cutting 1.8 - 1.7 with stock suspension on a 01 GT.
 
I talked to frank at team z about the street beast and he didn't recormend it for my power level goals. Right know I'm cutting 2.27 60 ft on slicks and running 8.50 in the 1/8 at 89.5 mph. There is a whole lot of spinning going on. I should be running low to mid 7s at my current power level. Those times was with a stick have to see how it runs with stalled auto this spring.
That's insane. I'd bet most of the guys here should be able to cut that kind of 60' on street tires with little effort. I don't understand why you're spinning so bad. What tires are you running?

Even without a burnout a 2.2 is well outside of the spectrum of what slicks should be capable of.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
+1 I was cutting 1.8 - 1.7 with stock suspension on a 01 GT.
M/t ET slicks tried them at 12 and 14 pounds pretty much same results. Which is one of the reasons I was think rear suspension is shot. I'm wanting to get it sorted out before I put vb in and start launching of a trans break.
 
Team Z lowers, baseline relocated uppers, strange shocks, stock cut springs, air bag in RR, 1.58 60' with 260whp and 28x13.5 QTP's

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
That's insane. I'd bet most of the guys here should be able to cut that kind of 60' on street tires with little effort. I don't understand why you're spinning so bad. What tires are you running?

Even without a burnout a 2.2 is well outside of the spectrum of what slicks should be capable of.
I cut a 2.1 on a summer tire so I'd tend to strongly agree with this haha.
 
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