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Tek302

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
When turning tight. My damn rear end slides out like I hit a ice patch.

How can I fix this? I know my rear tires are not the best (285/35/19 hankook ventus v12) but they were free.

Should I stiffen my rear shocks? Currently set at 2 out of 5.

First time it happened I was taking a pretty tight hair pin from a light and got on it and went 180 and recovered. 2nd time I barely gave it gas and it started to slide.

Traction control light doesn't turn on either.
 
Need a little more info. What tire pressure do you run? Bone stock boss, or modded susp? Also temps during this issue, there is a big difference between summer tires in the 50s and in the 80s. I have a completely different suspension setup than you, but I like the rear to be pretty tight when I want to have fun in the corners.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Completely stock suspension. Boss suspension that is. 35psi all around. It was about 85*
 
How is your front shock setup? Usually you want them close to the same. I run d-spec shocks with both front and rear set to 3.5 turns out from stiff. 5 turns out for long trips and 6.5 front 2.5-3 rear for straight line playing.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Its got the koni adjustable shocks from the factory. So both front and back stiffer then?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
No. Few minutes of driving
 
Thats pretty ridiculous. Ventus V2s shouldnt be that bad.

Its gotta be a temp issue, probably will take more than a few minutes of driving for those to get grippy.

My Goodyear Eagle F1s are the same way if its under 60 degrees and i just started driving, but once they are warm, i can pretty much WOT halfway through a sharper-than-90 degree turn and 100% hook in 2nd gear with 3.73s.
 
Its got the koni adjustable shocks from the factory. So both front and back stiffer then?
I'm pretty sure that the stock Boss 302 shocks/struts are actually made by Tokico. I'm actually reasonably sure that the stock GT shocks/struts are manufactured by them too.

If you don't know what dampers (shocks/struts) do then you really need to do some research as proper use of dampers will not make large changes in handling bias. It will change the bias at a particular portion of the corner (entry/apex/exit) but it will not make gross changes to overall handling bias. Dampers work by speeding up or slowing down weight transfer. If you stiffen up the dampers weight transfers quicker. If you stiffen just rebound it will quicken weight transfer AWAY from that end/side of the car. If you stiffen compression it will quicken the weight transfer TOWARDS that end of the car.

As to your question, I don't think we have enough information to really answer the question. When you say the rear is loose in tight turns, is it also loose in faster larger radius turns? Where is it loose at? Exit? Entry? Mid corner? What are you doing when it is loose?

Some people get this grand notion that they should be able to enter a corner and then plant their right foot and the car will just apply power. If that were the case the Mustang would be the greatest car ever invented. You are still subject to the friction circle of your tires. That is a HUGE concept in performance driving. The friction circle is this:

Imagine an x-y plot that goes from zero g to 2.0g. If your tires produce 1g there will be a circle with radius 1 from the origin of the circle. On the x axis we have our lateral g-forces (grip while turning left or right) and on the y axis we have our acceleration (usually -y axis) and braking (usually +y) forces. Now assume your car can actually produce 1g in each direction. Let us ignore the merits of that assumption for right now.

If we are in a purely right hand turn at max grip the graph would have a dot on the x-axis on the +x side at 1g. If we suddenly need to tighten the circle more and we are already at max grip in cornering what happens when we turn the wheel? One end or both ends of the car will lose grip entirely and the car will slide. Now what happens if we want to accelerate while turning? In order for us to accelerate while turning without losing grip we must reduce our lateral grip while we add power. In other words we have to straighten the steering wheel while we add power or else we will overload a set of tires and they wont produce grip anymore.

That is true for every car and that is how physics works. Here is what that friction circle actually looks like:

 
Should I stiffen my rear shocks? Currently set at 2 out of 5.
Typically stiffening the suspension reduces grip. I'd look for another cause. My first guess would be tires, how old are those Hankooks? Performance tires typically age out far before the tread wears out, so just because they have "good tread" doesn't mean they have a bit of traction.

Could have an issue with the LSD. It might be locking up too aggressively, causing you to lose traction. I thought the Bosses had a Torsen, though, which shouldn't act like that.

Just for gits and shiggles, go do a fat burnout on those tires, let them cool back down, and see if you have the same issue. I have a set of Toyo RA1s that can be a bit wooden, but a good heat cycle brings them right back.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
The tires are not even a month old. I would say its the exiting if the corner.

As to the torsen locking up too aggressively... I had ford change my diff fluid to my supplied amsoil 75w140. I gave them 3 quarts being it holds 2.6 quarts. The only used 2 and put in friction modifier. I remember someone telling me not to put in friction modifier in the torsen LSDs. I asked why they did that and that I had heard not to use the additive in the torsen. They were confused by the question

Could this be the problem?

---------- Post added at 02:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:12 PM ----------

To answer about high speed wide corners, I'm kind of scared to test it. Now that it feels like it hits slick spots I don't want to loose control at high speeds.
 
The tires are not even a month old. I would say its the exiting if the corner.

As to the torsen locking up too aggressively... I had ford change my diff fluid to my supplied amsoil 75w140. I gave them 3 quarts being it holds 2.6 quarts. The only used 2 and put in friction modifier. I remember someone telling me not to put in friction modifier in the torsen LSDs. I asked why they did that and that I had heard not to use the additive in the torsen. They were confused by the question

Could this be the problem?

---------- Post added at 02:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:12 PM ----------

To answer about high speed wide corners, I'm kind of scared to test it. Now that it feels like it hits slick spots I don't want to loose control at high speeds.
I think its prolly a stock swaybar issue and its setup to be tail happy / loose for the average consumer, not the precision driver. I'd recommend doing front and rear adj swaybars, because my car did the same from the factory, then i dialed in the swaybars to handle neutrally, without plowing through a turn with understeer or going through a turn with the rear out and oversteering.
 
I think its prolly a stock swaybar issue and its setup to be tail happy / loose for the average consumer
A too-stiff swaybar shouldn't affect low-speed cornering, though, as a swaybar only comes into play when there's force creating body roll. At low speed, you don't have the intertia trying to keep the body going to the outside of the corner, and the car stays flat. On top of that, with very rare exception, every car sold in the US is set up to understeer, so I doubt the factory bar would be that aggressive; I think we'd also hear complaints from other Boss owners if this was a stock setup issue.

That all said, swaybar is easy enough to test; pull the stock bar (or at least disconnect one side of it if that's easy enough to do; I'm not as familiar with S197 suspension) and see if it still does it.
 
+1 My car tends to understeer. Its not a boss 302, but the same chassis with slightly lower springs rates and the same sways...comparable lol.

I still think its either tires or Dif, more than likely tires. Brand new tires almost have to be worn in sometimes, depending on the compound the company uses for that particular model.
 
has nothing to do with your "sliding out" problem. but you shouldn't need any friction modifier for a torsen diff. that's for the clutches, and the torsen don't have them...

maybe you have the same problem I have and that your mom always told you that you can't handle a V8?
 
Lol. Have you ever thought about trading in your boss for a v6? Maybe this might help?
 
+1 My car tends to understeer. Its not a boss 302, but the same chassis with slightly lower springs rates and the same sways...comparable lol.

I still think its either tires or Dif, more than likely tires. Brand new tires almost have to be worn in sometimes, depending on the compound the company uses for that particular model.
Don't think so homie. Our rear sway bars are stiffer than yours.

Ford 22mm Solid (2011+ V-6 standard): 147 lbs/in
Ford 24mm Solid (2011+ 5.0, GT500): 193 lbs/in
Ford 25mm Solid (Boss 302): 250 lbs/in
Ford 26mm Solid (Boss 302 Laguna Seca): 275 lbs/in


Also for the OP I put my Boss when it was 100% stock through some crazy turns right and left and no issues with what you are talking about. Was also 35-40 degrees out at the time.

Our two differences at the time were I have a trac loc (so the build sheet says, still not sure till I pull the diff cover off shortly) and tires as I have the OEM Pirellies.
 
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