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Silver GT

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm about to buy a Fidanza flywheel for my car, but while I was looking at their website, I came across this...

3. SHOULD I BALANCE MY NEW FLYWHEEL? – Since our product is CNC machined they are incredibly accurate. We do however recommend that you balance your new flywheel along with your new clutch pressure plate. This should be done by a reputable and competent machine shop.
Is it really necessary to have everything balanced together and do you have to have the flywheel rebalanced every time you change the insert for a new clutch? If I have to go to a machine shop, I think it defeats the purpose of the replaceable insert.

Could someone post a link to some pressure plate studs that will work? I've heard of the flywheel bolt holes stripping since it's aluminum. I think F8L GT said something about these a while back.
 
You don't want aluminum unless you're autoX or something. Not enough mass. A billet steel would be the best option.
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
You don't want aluminum unless you're autoX or something. Not enough mass. A billet steel would be the best option.
Could you recommend a good flywheel? I would really like to get one with a replaceable insert, so I don't have to buy a new flywheel or resurface it every time I change the clutch. I plan on using a Exedy Mach 400 clutch, but the exedy flywheel is a one-piece design.

I know spec clutches are crap, but could I use a Spec billet steel flywheel with a exedy clutch? I haven't found any complaints on their flywheels, but I have my doubts because of their clutches.

I'm just trying to decide what would be my best option.
 
I wish I could sell you the ones I sell at work. Idk of a steel flywheel with a replacable facing. Unfortunately that's the nature of the beast with manuals.
 
What's wrong with an aluminum flywheel? I run one in my SHO and it's only 9lbs. I'm also running one in my 2000 GT, both are daily drivers. The RPM's drop faster and allow for faster shifting and better rev matching, not to mention less rotational mass. Hell my Fidanza in my GT wasn't much lighter than stock all things considered. The clutch itself is heavy as hell, so loosing a few lbs of the flywheel is just fine in my book.

EDIT: Also yes have it checked for round and balanced. Much easier to find out something is off now, than after you install it and have problems.
 
I have the Fidanza alum flywheel. It is a nice piece, and you do not need to balance it. I did not balance mine. I would, however, not get one again. It makes it tough to drive as a daily, and I did not notice any difference in power.
 
I can't say for sure. Make a phone call to Ford Racing.

---------- Post added at 09:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:14 PM ----------

I think it should though.
 
I have the Fidanza alum flywheel. It is a nice piece, and you do not need to balance it. I did not balance mine. I would, however, not get one again. It makes it tough to drive as a daily, and I did not notice any difference in power.
There are better ways to loose rotating mass.


Such as? I suppose you could go with lighter rims and an aluminum drive shaft.
^I'm wondering the same thing.

Yes you will see bigger gains from lighter wheels and I guess for an underpowered car I do agree for true competitive drag racing you probably want some more weight behind the engine to help it actually pull off the line.

I also guess it makes it "easier" to drive daily. But If you actually know how to drive a stick shift car, it's really not that bad especially in a Mustang that actually does make some bottom end tq unlike my SHO. Not many people can drive my SHO right off the bat, but you get used to it. The damn thing revs like a sport bike now, it's pretty amazing and I love that I can shift it that much faster.

In a nutshell, here's my overall opinion. If your stock flywheel is good, just stick with it and save the money. If it has heat cracks like mine did, buy an aluminum one, not a stock replacement. But as said above even a lighter steel one would be fine and probably a good compromise.

The one thing I did notice with my SHO is with a really heavy clutch, it was actually contorting the aluminum flywheel and causing hard shifting. I doubt that would ever be the case with a Mustang, but swapping from a stage 3 to a stage 2 fixed my shifting issues as well as keeping the stage 3 and using the stock steel flywheel.
 
Did a clutch designer from Chevy get fired and then hired by Ford?

They have the same 10.5" versus 11" clutch confusion to deal with.

Its such a small difference you think both companies would have just standardized on 11" instead of bouncing back and forth between the 2 sizes on different models.
 
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