So I see that most bumpsteer kits are basically rod ends with stacks of washers and no zert or way to grease them besides one. The kenny brown kit. Anybody attribute any noise to that and think its worth it to get the greased one or no? How is yours holding up?
Bumpsteer kit questions. Greased or no grease? hows yalls holding up?
hayden55
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So I see that most bumpsteer kits are basically rod ends with stacks of washers and no zert or way to grease them besides one. The kenny brown kit. Anybody attribute any noise to that and think its worth it to get the greased one or no? How is yours holding up?
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Exposed rod ends should be DRY not greased. Greasing an exposed rod end is a surefire way to force them to wear out quicker by attracting and keeping dirt next to the metal surfaces.
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kenny's arent rod end. their sealed greased with a zert.
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Solid advise, Whiskey. Are you running a bumpsteer kit?
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Nope. Not legal in the class I run in and no real benefit to doing so with stock ball joints and stock k member.
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Got any tech info on how steedas balljoints help a lowered car? Im lowered 1.9" up front.
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Sure do!
Taller ball joints do a number of things but the most important thing they do is change the where the suspension is at in the camber curve. You see, on the S197 chassis, you'll actually gain negative camber (go more negative) when the arm is below perpendicular to the strut. The lower you go on the car, the more horizontal your control arm gets and the more negative camber you'll have... the problem is that by lowering the car your car passes that perpendicular point and you start to go towards positive camber REALLY quickly.
To compensate, you run a lot of static negative camber or you start tweaking suspension geometry through taller ball joints, longer control arms, or raising the chassis side of the front LCA. All of which will change how quickly a strut car goes into positive camber. The other method is increased roll resistance...
The other thing a taller ball joint does is raise the front roll center. Remember that the distance between the CG of the car and the roll center (front or rear) determines the amount of body roll. A longer distance between the two results in larger roll angles, a shorter one results in smaller roll angles. A taller ball joint will raise the front roll center, which in addition to the reset on the camber curve will improve handling with lower spring rates and static alignment settings.
Keep in mind that any time you play with the angle of the front LCA, you are messing with the bumpsteer curve too... taller ball joints require bumpsteer kits to compensate for the additional bumpsteer.
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Cool! Very informative. Yeah i took off the 285's because its just too damn cold, no traction in them over a 235 in the winter and i feel im putting a ton of extra wear on them.
But since i put the 235's back on I definitely have no tramlining or bumpsteer that i can feel (those big ole pilot sport a/s 3's really do wanna turn, but turn into every bump. lol).
Along with the H&R Race springs and d-specs set to full stiff up front and 2 in the rear with the whiteline bars set to full stiff front and rear on .61 degree of camber the car is perfectly neutral! It actually has almost no body roll compared to the steeda sport springs I had.
I think it will do nicely once I get a watts link installed.
So how did you like your watts link? How did lowering the center of gravity change how the car understeered or oversteered? From what ive heard they feel more dampend instead of feeling the big BANG (not very composed feeling, sloppy dampening) from the rear end when you go over a bump opposed to the how nice the front end takes them.
But since i put the 235's back on I definitely have no tramlining or bumpsteer that i can feel (those big ole pilot sport a/s 3's really do wanna turn, but turn into every bump. lol).
Along with the H&R Race springs and d-specs set to full stiff up front and 2 in the rear with the whiteline bars set to full stiff front and rear on .61 degree of camber the car is perfectly neutral! It actually has almost no body roll compared to the steeda sport springs I had.
I think it will do nicely once I get a watts link installed.
So how did you like your watts link? How did lowering the center of gravity change how the car understeered or oversteered? From what ive heard they feel more dampend instead of feeling the big BANG (not very composed feeling, sloppy dampening) from the rear end when you go over a bump opposed to the how nice the front end takes them.
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