so yesterday i heard brake noise from the left rear...i figured time to change pads. well when i got in there, the outside pad on that side was almost new, while the inside was grinding into my rotor. i am replacing all 4 rotors this spring and it is not warped so i did not have it turned. i got the pistons screwed back in, and finished the brake job with the exception of bleeding the brakes, i did not have another person there nor did i have time. well now my brakes are really spongy. and take FOREVER to stop. when i got to work...about a 20 minute drive, that wheel was unreasonalbly hot and smelled of brakes....bad. any ideas, aside from a ful brake bleed.
rear brakes
workinprogress
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so yesterday i heard brake noise from the left rear...i figured time to change pads. well when i got in there, the outside pad on that side was almost new, while the inside was grinding into my rotor. i am replacing all 4 rotors this spring and it is not warped so i did not have it turned. i got the pistons screwed back in, and finished the brake job with the exception of bleeding the brakes, i did not have another person there nor did i have time. well now my brakes are really spongy. and take FOREVER to stop. when i got to work...about a 20 minute drive, that wheel was unreasonalbly hot and smelled of brakes....bad. any ideas, aside from a ful brake bleed.
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your caliper may be sticking. i just did mine with some morse ceramics, when i put the anti rattle clips on the pad wasn't going in, i left one off and it was still pretty tight, no problems yet.
The outter pad may be stuck and not compressing with the piston
The outter pad may be stuck and not compressing with the piston
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oh yeah it had ground the anti rattle clips to about nothing, they arent on there
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When you twisted the piston back in, did you open the valve to let the fluid out?
With the ABS system, it is not a good ideal to Force the fluid back through system. Better to loosen the valve on your caliphar, reset your pistons on your caliphar. Then close the valve, check your break fluid, top it off. Before even starting your car, pump your breaks to they get tight again, and with rear breaks, pump your ebreak as well. Go back under hood, top off your reservoir and your done. Its not a complete bleeding of the system, but it protects your break lines and ABS system.
If you didn’t open the valve and didn’t drain fluid before you started, you could have wedged open a ABS valve or something and now breaks won’t pressurize right.
Or your caliphar is sticking, but that would be noticable because you stop quick or have a pulling to one side while breaking
With the ABS system, it is not a good ideal to Force the fluid back through system. Better to loosen the valve on your caliphar, reset your pistons on your caliphar. Then close the valve, check your break fluid, top it off. Before even starting your car, pump your breaks to they get tight again, and with rear breaks, pump your ebreak as well. Go back under hood, top off your reservoir and your done. Its not a complete bleeding of the system, but it protects your break lines and ABS system.
If you didn’t open the valve and didn’t drain fluid before you started, you could have wedged open a ABS valve or something and now breaks won’t pressurize right.
Or your caliphar is sticking, but that would be noticable because you stop quick or have a pulling to one side while breaking
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well, id doesnt stop as quick, but there is absolutely no pull either way....im going to try a full brake bleed
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turns out i needed 3 things...a good brake bleed, a new rotor on that side....the old one was so damaged from the brake pad backing plate that the new pads were vibrating against it instead of stopping, and a new caliper mounting bracket with new slides...one of the old slides on that side was 100% siezed up. now everything works like a charm...i dare someone to try to ride my ass now lol
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i need the cobra bumper...bring it on suzy
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lal right on....thanks man
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