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Discussion starter · #3 ·
I originally bought that kit to eliminate the external regulator from them with their kit. however, my wifes uncle is in the alternator business and sent me a 3G plus a adapter to make it internal regulated. I can post pics up as well later. I just want to make sure how everything goes. Right now I have the main battery cable connected to the solenoid on the fender. 6 wires are currently going to the stock alternator, two are grounds, one goes to the electronic choke, one is a black with yellow stripe and other is solid white or faded yellow.
 
I bought the kit that has the dummy external regulator from pa so my wiring should be what your looking for. I'll be home in about 20.

---------- Post added at 06:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:08 PM ----------

Ok couldn't really get any good pics with everything in the way. My power cable goes from the alt through the inline fuse then to positive side of the battery. The rest of the wires are hooked up as you described above.
 
Are you wanting to use teh dummy box or not? Couldn't really tell by your post. The only thing that box does if I remember correctly is keep your factory amp meter in "working" condition.

I can try to post some pics later also. I have the dummy box currently but I will be looking into removing it as I no longer have the amp meter in my dash cluster.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I installed the Pa dummy box. My amp gauge currently reads in the middle but I know for a fact that my battery is draining as my alternator is crap. I have been charging the battery after I get home from work. So not really sure what's going on with my gauge as it doesn't move now. Before I put the pa kit in my amp gauge needle was just bouncing all over. So now with the new alternator I went with the adapter to make it internally regulated. so I don't need the pa dummy kit. Do you know which wire runs to the amp gauge?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
It's fixed. Disconnected all the wires except the black with yellow stripe. I'm leaving the dummy external on just for giggles as don't want to go through the wiring harnes to take all the wires out, plus if I ever get rid of it easy to bring back stock. Now onto other fixes.
Thanks for the help folks
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
ok, so i apparently i just thought i fixed it. So after i installed the alternator all was good, checked my hand held voltmeter and was getting 14volts, thought all was good. However the next day battery was low, so I charged it started car, did the ol disconnect the positive to see if alternator was charging and sure nough it died. Did the same test moments ago and now it stayed running. Is there some kinda ground as I know these cars are sensitive in that area but I wouldn't think it'd bother charging?
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
It turned out the guy that swapped the motor put the choke to the batt lead on the alternator. Since it's been cold it has been on constantly. It was draining the battery. Never noticed nor had the skill to recognize it til now. It didn't affect it during the summer or warmer months as the choke didn't need to be activated. So all is good now. now onto i believe the cluster regulator, as it seems my dash lights flicker every now and then. Thank you everyone for your support
 
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