evap. weight reduction... - ModularFords.com

 

Only read the first page of that link. Losing weight from the rear is not a popular location to lose weight from. Some high powered (forced induction) cars have actually had weight added (as much as a 100lbs) to the rear to help plant the rear tires on launch. Our car is actually about 200 lbs heavier than stock now. We have not done anything yet to lose weight. Relocated battery to trunk to transfer 50 lbs from the nose of the car, over rear axle. We're looking into body clips and such but nothing that you would want to apply to a well-preserved daily driver.

 

remove front sway bar at track, battery in trunk, remove spare, jack, lighter wheel/tire combos, al. driveshaft, tubular K an A,...

 

From Official S197 Diet Thread - The Mustang Collective Forums

46.5 lbs Passenger Seat
3.5 lbs Jack
29 lbs Spare tire
7 lbs Trunk mat
1 lb Passenger side floor mat
12.5 lbs Bottom of backseat
Getting rid of all of the above = 99.5 lbs savings

40 lbs OEM torque converter(with fluid)
39 lbs OEM driveshaft (GT)
31 lbs OEM driveshaft (V6)
31 lbs OEM H-pipe with cats (GT info, need info for V6)
31 lbs OEM mufflers (pair)
31 lbs OEM battery
27 lbs OEM Pirelli without rim (GT info, need info for V6)
22.8lbs Truetrac 31 spline
21.5lbs (each) front stock strut+spring assembled - no spindle bolts - strut+spring+upper bearing plate/bushing
21 lbs OEM 17x8 rim
18 lbs OEM exhaust manifolds (pair) (GT info, need info for V6)
17.4lbs CHE Axle Brace w/LPW Girdle and bolts
17 lbs OEM Dual amps (behind the shaker 1000 boom box)
16.8lbs (each) Moser Axle - solid 31 spline
14 lbs OEM LCA's
14 lbs OEM front sway bar with end links
14 lbs Odyssey 680 battery
14 lbs (each) Eibach front adjustable srut+spring (pro-street-s)
12 lbs SLP Loudmouths (pair)
9 lbs OEM axle tube weights (pair)
8 lbs OEM crank pulley
6.2lbs CHE PHB
6.2lbs CHE DS loop (front only for a 1pc ds)
6lbs Front plastic inner wheel wells
5lbs Steeda steel strut tower brace (part # 555-5716)
5lbs Trunk trim (sides pannels & platic piece that cover the lower latch) & both struts
4.5 lbs OEM radio/CD player
4 lbs OEM UCA
3.8lbs CHE UCA (adjustable)
3.6lbs (each) CHE LCA

 

From Official S197 Diet Thread - The Mustang Collective Forums

Reps for great info:yes

 

K member
A arms

Thats 30lbs off the front end and will do wonders for the handling of the car. Not a cheap fix but your getting more for you money. Bettter handling, more responsive steering, moving towards better weight distribution and looks good.

steeda rad support/or bmr rad support if you dont mind losing the sway bar
Depending which one you go with thats 11 to 24lbs off the front end.

If your a straight up drag racer you can look at lighter brakes up front. light struts.

Driveshaft is 17lbs

Coult look at light weight rims.

 

The S197 has a curb weight of 3500 lbs depending on model and wheel selection.

The New Edge weighs 3350 lbs.

 

Anyone know what a set of stingers weigh??

 

frpp usually has the weight of parts on their website.

 

I've found a good overrall weight reduction would be a high cardio oriented workout schedule at least 3 days a week. Should be able to shave quite a few pounds off.

 

:withhomo. I have lost 16lbs since 01/06/09

 

Nice! What are you doing?

 

No junk food, no fast food, plenty of water & exercise.

 

Rollerblades...

Rollerblades...

... just slam fourth and jump out!

 

Rollerblades...

... just slam fourth and jump out!

Seriously? The only skates I'd ever be caught in anymore, are Ice Hockey skates.

 

:withhomo

 

There are two weights on the rear axle that can be removed. I think they weigh about 5 lbs each.

 

Pic's & what are the purpose of them?

 

I don't have any pictures. They are just weights to help smooth out axle movement. I haven't noticed a difference without them. I do have Tokico D-Specs and Steeda Sport Springs though.

 

Would the Steeda Ultra light cowl induction hood help shed some lbs? They claim it is the lightest hood out there.

 

Would the Steeda Ultra light cowl induction hood help shed some lbs? They claim it is the lightest hood out there.

im not sure if you answered your own question...but yes, if it's lighter, then less pounds would be present.

 

two weights on the rear axle that can be removed. I think they weigh about 5 lbs each

Based on the old rule of thumb that 100lbs=1/10s, then 10lbs=1/100s. I know, I know it all adds up, but why would you want to lose any weight from the rear end? Bet there's a difference in ET results from removing 100lbs from the front of the vehicle versus 100lbs from the rear.

It's a heavy car and just gets heavier with mods. You try and shave off a few pounds here and there, then you add it all back with a forced induction system, roll bars or cage...lol. Not unusual for a 9 second 2005+ mustang to weigh over 4000lbs (with driver).

 

You seem to be knocking anything to do with removing weight out of the rear of the car. I understand needing traction, but there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Let's say I remove my spare tire, jack, evap system. I have just lost 65lbs & cheap.
Now move the battery to the trunk & lose the saddle tank that sits in front of the axle & replace it with a fuel cell thus moving more weight to the rear.
So together with all that I have lost 60lbs but also moved an = amount of weight over the rear axle.

 

Most fiberglass hoods weigh more than the factory aluminum hood FYI............

The two weights on the rear axle are for NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) reasons. They are like silencers on a compound bow. Same concept they use when they install the weights on the exhaust system of some vehicles. They are for sound deadening purposes, and they keep some of the rear axle harshness from showing up. Pretty much for old ladies that own these cars and want them quiet and smooth

 

If I personally lost anymore weight people would think im on crack or something lol (about 140 lbs)

 

seem to be knocking anything to do with removing weight out of the rear of the car

Knocking sounds like I am making fun of those suggestions. Not at all, but yes, I am questioning the rational.

I like the battery in the trunk idea. Fuel cell????? Seems a bit too radical. The stock plastic fuel tank is not heavy at all, maybe 15-20 lbs. Wouldn't putting a fuel cell in the car involve other changes to the fuel system? Not for your average modder?

 

I'm not talking about the weight of the tank but the placement of the weight of the fuel & tank from ahead of the rear axle to behind it.

 

I agree with steves point. On a virtually empty tank and removeing the spare tire, jack and the usuall junk i have in my trunk i run slower et's. His point is that traction matters more then 20lbs. And he is dead on balls accurate in my case. Now i run with 3/4 of a tank and get better 60s. Yea there is more then one way to skin a cat, just make sure your actually skining it.


As for whether the weight reduction is in front or back on the road coarse not mattering......I guess only if you think weight distribution doesnt matter for handling. But that would be a new one on me.

Its all academic anyway, shave weight on the front, understeer is compounded, learn to drive better and transfer the weight better, set the suspensoin right, round and round we go.

Ill stand by my first suggestion, k member, a arms, the benifits from these mods are not only weight reduction but a better handling more responsive mustang.

I also agree with steve. The priority is the front end, for many reasons, weight transfer on the launch, better distribution for handling.

 

I dont disagree with the front end being the priority. But it isnt the only place to lose weight & my car doesnt live at the track.

 

Living at the track or not its a handling issue as well on the street.

The car is nose heavy now, you slam on the brakes in emergency situation on the street throwing all the weight on the front tires, turn the wheel hard to swerve and miss something.........when you spin out its becuase you had no weight on the rear end. an extreme example but that is a simple analogy of weight distribution. Now whatever little bit of weight you guys are talking about on the rear doesnt matter to that analogy.

But

Again, 100lbs equals 1/10 in the 1/4 like steve said. If your not doing if for the track, why do it?

Not trying argue im just confused as to the reason if its not the track reasons.

 

Have you read nothing I said??
I remove my spare tire, jack, evap system. I have just lost 65lbs & cheap.

Now move the battery to the trunk.
So for those that cant seem to figure out what that means. It means that you are moving 35lbs for the front of the car to the rear.

Now you are only 30lbs to the negetive in the rear of the car.

Now lose the saddle tank that sits in front of the axle & replace it with a fuel cell that sits behind the axle thus moving more weight to the rear. So for daily driving it would hold say 10 gallons? which is about 70lbs

So together with all that I have lost 60lbs but also moved an = amount of weight over the rear axle.

So as you can see it makes for a more balanced car weight wise..:yes

 

I did read it. the fuel cell idea sounds in depth and not free to me. Would it require some modifications to the axle backs?

I was just pointing out that for 800 you could shave about 60lbs up front. Include in that your battery relocation and you would have lost 90lbs off the front, gained 30 in the back. plus gained more precise steering, more rigidity with the tubular k member, better torq transfer with the solid motor mounts. etc.

Good luck brother. Sounds like you thought it out.

 

No one should should mention anything in the rear to lose weight. I guess it's against the grain around here. 1FUN4RD just made my point completely. No one is talking about only ditching weight in the rear. Not to mention ... My 2008 or his 2007 didn't come with these axle " weights" them from the factory !! So does this mean we should go out and get a pair? Sorry, I don't buy into it. Any place you can lose weight is good, just do it evenly.

 

The fuel cell sits where the spare tire used to. & the fuel cell might not be cheap, but I bet its alot less than 800.00?

Like this>>

Or this>>

 

LOL. Ok im sorry, yes your right loose it in the back.

You came up with the idea im just trying to understand the point.

Bottom line the car has a 53/47 weight distribution now.

That means if the car weighs 3500lbs, 1855 is up front 1645 is in the back.. So loseing the weight evenly isnt going to cut it, and loseing weight anywhere isnt alright. You need to lose 200 up front just to make it even. Your arguing here the distribution doesnt matter???? If you think that i really have nothing else to say.

Good luck with it guys. no hard feelings there.

 

Also if your goal is to simply have an equally ballanced car then just throw 200lbs of sand bags in the back & you are golden.. Sorry that I misunderstood this thread to be for ways to shave weight off the car.